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gunsngeeks

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Posts posted by gunsngeeks

  1. On 4/26/2017 at 10:17 AM, R1_Demon said:

     

    I feel the same way...at least you finally hit 50.  I'm at like 6 or something.  LOL!  Admittedly I'm a new member, but it seems like everyone has already asked all the questions I want to ask, so all I have to do is read or do a search and read and bam, there is the info I need.  So, I don't have to post up any questions to ask.  LOL!  But I guess I will get there eventually. :)

     

    Oh and congrats to the OP even though I know this thread is old as dirt.  LOL

    Thanks for the vote of confidence.  Hang in there and reply to others as well...those posts count!!!  Take care buddy and welcome to the forum.  Everyone here is very helpful and knowledgeable. 

  2. On 7/3/2016 at 7:23 PM, outerlimits said:

    this will sound barbaric, but it works. get a piece of dowel, 1" in diameter. put it into the rear of your upper until it touches the barrel extension, then cut the dowel so that sticks out of the upper about 3-4". put it back into the upper and start banging on the dowel with a rubber mallet. it will come out so be ready. an extra set of hands is good.

    This works great for sticky barrels.  Might sound brutal but it's not harmful.

  3. On 8/1/2016 at 9:06 AM, ClangClang said:

    You're thinking about it the wrong way. The grip (AKA the frame) IS the gun. So what I'm saying is.... you didn't swap frames. You swapped slides. There is no problem selling the G35 frame with the G17 slide on top. If your state requires a background check, just make sure you make the sale at a FFL who can run a BGC on the buyer.

    This is absolutely correct...it's the same premise as people building AR15 rifles.  The stripped serialized low IS the gun.   Everything else is peripheral. 

  4. On 8/7/2016 at 1:34 PM, zzt said:

    B, your frame was made to run 2011 style. You are not going to find a slide with extra material in the areas you want. It will not matter. If you remove the correct amounts from the bottom of the slide and the frame rails, you will have an interference fit that you can then hone in. There will be zero vertical or horizontal play.

    Since this is your first build, I'd suggest you use CK Arms parts for everything you can, except possibly their mag release if not using their grip. The reason is the fit is close and blending is easy. For any STI style pistol, one of the best and easiest grip safeties is the J.E.M. GS. It is made for JEM by EGW. It is bar stock, fits like a glove, blends with Emory and is so much better than the MIM STI part it isn't funny. You can order it from either firm.

    I agree...use CK parts wherever you can and it will definitely make for less work in the long run.

  5. On 8/4/2016 at 10:57 PM, BeerBaron said:

    no worries. pics it is.

    The gun is still a bit of a project. the refresh plans are:

    new cheely setback 90 mount with cmore slide ride (have the mount with custom hole pattern - thanks to Matt Cheely).

    the new super large racker (now done, and with thanks to Brazos for the great product and instructions)

    need to replace some small bits (grip screws are nicely seized up and the heads a bit hammered for starters, some scope mount screws were knackered too)

    Took apart the barrel and comp which is an interesting sleeved barrel (sleeve is full length to just before the forward most locking lug and basically no taper so slide is clearanced inside, I should weigh the slide, I'd guess it's light)

    new magwell (dawson ICE in red - just waiting for them to come back into stock at SSI)

    swapping in a red enos bottom curve trigger insert (got that)

    Phoenix Trinity shielded ambis

    I will also consider cutting back the dust cover if I don't like the balance. interestingly without a scope the balance point on my finger is behind the trigger guard. actually it balances on my finger nicely just in front of the trigger shoe which is slightly to the rear of the mid point so if anything it's still rear heavy even without a mag in it (heavy magwell helps no doubt).

    The new scope setup is well set back so balance shouldn't change too much. Light slide and titanium comp help I'm sure.

    Anyway some pics of she is now half way to being re-furbed. sans scope for now, but with racker. :)

    The cut:

    rack6_zpsnsb54aoq.jpg

    rack1_zpshfg5sovx.jpg

    rack5_zpsrbsanqhb.jpg

    rack3_zpsoji0aatk.jpg

    rack2_zpsfsgtgmox.jpg

    rack4_zps9g3fzzkr.jpg

    Thanks again for the help and advice. As I said I did end up using the 360 cutter I had and we did have to make a few extra passes on each side to widen the dovetail but any non radiused part at the end of the cut is not noticeable thankfully. Certainly the 375 cutter is the correct size to use! The fit is very tight but still easy to get in and out by hand no problem.

    Nice gun...pretty unique.  I had considered doing a carry comp gun similar to this.  I was going to do either a 4.25" barrel and end up Government length or a 3-3.5" barrel to end up at 4.25" Commander length. 

  6. There is literally tons of information on YouTube.  If you watch a few you'll quickly figure out who has the right stuff.  

     

    Good luck, I'm a beginning 1911 builder too and if you take your time the results can be incredible.  My slide to frame fit on my first build was better than any custom maker I have ever seen. 

  7. Hello everyone, 

     

    I'm building a 1911 and a 2011 right now with more to come.  These are all personal use guns.

     

    I need some advice or links to explain how best to fit the safety.  I have a 10-8 Performance Bench Block and there is a spot to insert the safety and file it down but it seems like an awful lot of material removal but I could be wrong.

     

    Any advice and/or links would be greatly appreciated.  Thankd guys!!!

  8. On 9/18/2016 at 7:59 PM, Tdizle said:

    You shouldn't have to treat it differently than any other open gun. Just because the barrel is a touch shorter doesn't change the entire set up. 

    I run a steelmaster in 9 minor and Major, (steel challenge and USPSA) I just change the recoilmaster main spring. So far it's been good. Other have done the same. The matchmaster is a shorty major gun from sti. Just get it to eject the brass and get the recoil spring matched to your set up. I don't notice much difference between my Steelmaster and my buddies trubore on the same ammo. My PF 2-3 points lower, it's not some huge difference 

    Thanks so much for the links...this will be a great help!!!

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