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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

bwxmas

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Posts posted by bwxmas

  1. Glad it turned out, but really guys, does it boost your ego to see how little you can use.

    Dawn is pretty cheap, you cannot oversoap brass, but you can damn sure under soap. Squirt it like you mean it.

    Honestly, your brass does not care.

    Nor do I measure lemishine..its cheap.. I pour about a capful in, and go.

    You would have to let it sit overnight to do damage, which I have done.

    I have never once had a case turn color, without forgetting about it, and letting it sit for hours.

    But do your thing...

  2. Here is the before:

    20151021_053150_zpshzcoih03.jpg

    Here is the after (1 hour):

    20151021_053241_zpspmublzxy.jpg

    I am wondering if I had the right proportions of ingredients...or if I should have set the timer for longer...or if I didn't rinse them good enough???

    Mine don't appear to be as bling bling as others I have seen.

    FYI...the bullseye-reloading.com guy says he uses a paint strainer bag to catch the pins and when rinsing them. He says you can get the paint strainer bags at any hardware store, paint store, Lowe's, or Home Depot.

    You did not use enough soap. or lemishine

    Soap is cheap, and will always wash off.

    When cleaning that much brass, triple or quad your dose, and add 30-1hr.

    People here use their own homebrew, and thats ok

    I still buy the Frankfort Arsenal BRASS cleaner (Not parts cleaner)off Amazon, it has always worked well.

    If I ran out, I would do what you are, just more.

  3. Ba10 is close to Bullseye.. It is very noticeable. It has pink, and purple colors.

    Shoots very soft, and meters very well..Good powder. I shot 3.8 in 45, and it was very manageable, and I am sure could go higher, but that is a nice soft load.

    A!, AO, AS are square powders, they meter fine, and I have had good accuracy in all the clibers I have used it.

    If I had to pick the one that is the most versatile, it would be the A1. I seem to get better accuracy with this powder than the others.

    I would try the others, but they were out of stock, seems like the Ba9 would be a nice powder.

    They are all good powders, and well worth the money.

    I shoot for fun, and accuracy, I have no idea about power factor.

    Not a dirty powder, By all means buy some, and try. I have a few more lbs coming, but I have enough Bullseye to last a lifetime, and just wanted to see how they compare

  4. I would like to know how your tests come out.

    I will bet it will be the same, or very close.

    In all my tests from 380-45 colt, cfe, and autocomp turn in the same performance. Groupwise, recoil, etc

    I just have not chronographed them

  5. IMHO, it is the same powder.

    It might have a different coating, but I doubt it.

    It has always shot the same, as autocomp.

    If you put them side by side, it looks the same, shoots the same, same charge, etc.

    If it is not the same powder, it is damn close.

  6. In 9mm I used 4.0 gr of WST with a 121 JHP. It was very accurate. No pressure sings, and I did not chrono the load.

    I have not shot 147 grain. I would say there is plenty of info on the 147 combination if you google it.

    I have found in MY OWN loading, that I will end up about a half grain under 231 data, but I start at 1grain under 231.

    Be careful, and watch for the signs.

  7. For me, I will use BE86, CFE pistol, Autocomp, WST

    These are 45 acp, not 9mm, but you get the gist hopefully

    WST gives up nothing to 231. Far cleaner

    I decided to shoot them together at one time.

    DSC_0665_zpsq8cwidke.jpg

    WST left, 231 Middle, HP38 right.Yes I know they are the same, but some people still believe 231 is better than HP38

    DSC_0661_zps8uggdp0f.jpg

  8. I decided to do this for a friend who swears 231, and HP38 are different.

    Shot 231, HP38, and WST today. I had sub inch groups with all.

    I decided to shoot all three at the same point. I was impressed.

    WST is super clean, super accurate.

    WST is fast becoming a go to powder.

    Picture of the brass.

    WST on the left, 231 Middle, HP38 right.

    DSC_0661_zps8uggdp0f.jpg

    DSC_0665_zpsq8cwidke.jpg

  9. Nobody can diagnose like the people that made it. I doubt you would have more than 15 minutes on the phone.

    It could have been fixed by now.

    My guess is shellplate, or die.

    My problems with the LNL were from east and west on the case, and adjusting pawls helped me.

    your case is North, and south. The only things that could be wrong, are the die, shellplate, or the hole in the press not lining up.

    Pawls do not go that way..

  10. I have seperate strong mounts for mine.

    I just use 1" -1 1/2" wood screws. I pull them, and put the next one on, and keep going.

    With a power drill, I can replace a LNL, or Dillon in under a minute.

    That way they are on a mount, and will sit striaght on top of my safe or, on the ground.

    I mount them flush with the front of my bench. If I take them all off, you cant even tell where I mount them.

    If the holes gets ragged, I just move an inch one way or the other.

    I have loaded many thousands that way, and have yet to need to move my initial screw holes.

    No lag bolts are needed.

  11. I don't see it mentioned much, but this is what I do with pistol cases.

    I try to weigh all my cases and sort them into lots within 2 grains

    After I load all my ammo, I reweigh every completed round on the scale, if my load is 4 grains of powder, I look for anything that is over or under 3 grains difference

    If I know what weight I am looking for, it is obvious when something is off by 3-4 grains..They get pulled, and checked. If they are good, I put the powder back in, and run it through the machine again

    I can go through a hundred rounds in about 5 minutes. You get a feel for it after you do it a few times.

    Some brass is off by over 7 grains, and when you get them together, it is hard to tell.

    It can be done though.

    When I reweigh the loaded rounds, I also put them into groups. Usually the ones that are off by a bunch, will have the same headstamp. I still pull one to doublecheck.

  12. Beginners style.

    One thing is sure , it is too tight or too loose. If you can wiggle the plate it is too loose.

    I bought some bearings, and was able to go really tight, but while it took all the slop out, I could not feel the index. I ended up backing it out a half turn from tight. Try that.

    You should tighten it up, and then back off till you fel the plate indexing..Should work.

    Remember if you do not tighten the allen screw on the side, everytime you index the plate, if you go counter clockwise, the main screw will back out. tighten the lock screw each time you back out the main screw, till you find the happy place, then tighten it well.

  13. The grip safety has its own pin, it fits with the safety, and is secured by the backstrap at the bottom.

    What got me, is this was my first teardown of a 1911, and the first thing I see when I drop the backstrap, is this pin laying on the spring.

    The pistol had locked up last week, (meaning you could not pull the trigger, until you jostled it around a bit) and would not shoot a couple of times.

    I now think this pin was rattling around, and getting up around the grip safety not letting it release.

    Thanks for the replies though, and if you have any other suggestions, let me know.

    Lee

  14. Took off my backstrap, and this fell offf. I asked Para about it, and they said it was the pin from safety to slide lock, but those are all there, and I had not taken them off yet.

    I am guessing they were an extra from manufacture. any guesses.

    I used noi tools, so the marks are from roling around in the backstrap I guess

    Thanks

    Lee

    post-54222-0-77653300-1401480141_thumb.j

    post-54222-0-80564300-1401480152_thumb.j

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