AdvocatusDiaboli
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Posts posted by AdvocatusDiaboli
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I bought 3000 147 plated bullets from them. I haven't been able to get them to group at all (8-10" groups at 10 yards). I've switched to coated lead and I'm much happier. I'll never buy plated again.
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Keep us posted on how it turns out and what the fix was/is.
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I loaded 147 blue bullets over 3.2 grains of titegroup. OAL 1.140. Diameter .378 provided the best groups out of my G34. Soft shooting and very little smoke.
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My G34 was most accurate with an OAL of 1.165-1.170 when using Xtreme 147 bullets.
***I used a different powder than you are using.
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www.hodgonreloading.com/data/pistol
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I'm another who is seriously considering shooting Revolver division since the rule change. The 929 looks awesome. I want one.
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I have used Titegroup with Bayou Bullets without issues. I suspect the SNS will do likewise.
No excessive smoking? Can I ask what gun you are shooting through. Any issues in a Glock barrel if that's what you shoot? Thanks.
I'm using Titegroup with Blue Bullets (similar to Bayou & SNS) in a Glock 34. Very, very little smoke (almost nil). My load is 3.2 grains, OAL 1.145", Diameter .378, Speer brass, Rem primer, getting an average of 943 fps with a 147 grain bullet. Velocity spread is 21 fps. I've had no issues whatsoever using coated bullets in a Glock, thus far. NOTE*** I've only put 250 of these through my Glock. I plan to shoot more when they arrive. I've tried using less powder in my Glock, both with coated bullets and plated bullets, but my gun just doesn't seem to be as accurate when I go below 3.2 grains of titegroup.
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If retail stores were required to sell at those prices, they would be selling at a loss.
You may not be aware of it but there is a set price for Blue Label Glocks and GT sells them for that price as most true Blue Label Dealers do. They should be charging these prices. Most c models have been discontinued.There is no set price for Blue Labels. Most charge around the same price. There is not much margin. That said, Ive always found GT's to be 5-10 bucks cheaper than other places.
Glock model 17, 19, 22,23,26,27,31,32,33 $398.20 + Tax
Glock model 17C, 19C, 22C, 23C, 31C, 32C $422.40 + Tax
Glock model 20, 21, 21SF, 29, 30, 30SF, 36 $464.20 + Tax
Glock model 20C, 21C $508.20 + Tax
Glock model 34, 35 $480.70, + Tax
Glock model 37, 38, 39 $414.70 + Tax
Most Blue Label Dealers also sell non Blue Label Pistols and they cost more.
I'll second that. Scottsdale Gun Club sells blue label to those who qualify for the price you listed. They also sell white label Glocks to those that don't qualify for blue label at regular retail prices.
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Interesting discussion. I just put a Venek classic in my Gen 4 17 and went with the 4.5 lb spring and several light strikes with magtech ammo first try. I put the 5 lb spring in and Ill be trying that soon... hopefully that will fix it. I can be having light strikes.
Do you have a lightened striker? If not, I highly recommend it. That will drastically reduce your light strikes.
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I'm talking about the striker/firing pin spring at 4#s.
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1st rule of SF is to always look cool. He broke the 1st rule.
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Yes, I have an email sent to accuracy speaks. Waiting to hear back from him.
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I've had 2 light strikes in about 3000 shots with Remington primers. I keep thinking about putting in the 4.5# spring instead of the 4# spring in there now. But, the light strikes just haven't been that prevalent.
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I've got a lot of similarities to your 1st build. I'm also running a Vanek Classic and really like it. I went with a ZEV firing pin because I couldn't get a Jager.
Keep me posted with your assessment of the Zev trigger system.
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Sending pm
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Where in Arizona? If Tucson, look up Glock Präzision.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Mesa.
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FINALLY!
It seems the crimp was the issue with the terrible groupings. I've settled in at .378 and I've been getting excellent groups, better than factory loads actually.
I've settled on:
147 X-treme
1.165-1.170 OAL
.378 Diameter
3.2 grains Titegroup.
Power factor is 136
Velocity spread 22 fps.
I also tried Blue Bullets 147 gr. flat points
1.145 OAL
.378 Diameter
3.2 grains Titegroup
PF 140
Velocity spread 21 fps.
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I just did some testing today with my Gen4 G34 and 147 gr. Blue Bullets (flat point) with great success (stock barrel).
1.145 OAL
3.2 grains Titegroup
.378 diameter at the rim
Chrono results: High was 964; Low was 943; Average was 954; spread was 21 ft. per sec.
Power Factor 140.
For some reason, when I go to 3.1 grains Titegroup or below (regardless of what bullet I'm using), groups start to open up and the velocity spread increases as well.
Edit: Very, very little smoke, virtually unnoticeable. In fact, I had to shoot a couple rounds into the berm just so I could see if there was smoke.
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I need to have a barrel fitted in a Glock. Can anyone recommend a gunsmith in Arizona for the job?
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I loaded the mags with 10 rounds for the test groups. There were no issues. These are plated bullets. Are factory rounds with a diameter of .375 using plated bullets or jacketed?
My bullet diameter is .355. The brass thickness is .012 x 2 = .024. Thus total diameter should be .379. Any tighter and I will be scuffing the bullet plating. Do you recommend that?
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I'm getting a power factor in the 139 range with 147s and 3.2 grains Titegroup.
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I may be on to something here.
3.2 grains Titegroup
1.170 OAL
.379 diameter.
All shots 15 yards, 10 shot groups.
1st group (from L to R) chrono results
High 974
Low 925
Average 948
2nd group chrono results
High 976
Low 929
Avg 953
I did notice that all test loads seemed to tighten up significantly when I changed the diameter from .381 to .379.
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All bolt guns indeed, except for the Daniel Defense .223.
No I don't reload rifle. But I'm guessing those are bolt guns you are loading those rounds for? Without a doubt there is much more pressure involved in a rifle round but you are most likely more worried about accuracy in your 08 than you are if it will function properly at combat speed in USPSA.
Do you have experience reloading rifle rounds? Have you found it to be easier than loading for pistol cartridges? Common sense tells me that because rifle rounds are operating at higher pressures and much higher velocities, that small adjustments would have bigger affects to bullet flight down range.
I figure for those rifles you are pretty much looking for accuracy and fitting the chamber. With a USPSA load you need good to great accuracy, 100% RELIABILTY, Power factor, and the gun has to handle as well as possible in order to get hits fast. That can take a lot of time, effort and components.
Thousand or even hundreds of rounds for load development seems excessive, but I am going through the same thing right now with 9mm in my G34.I use a chrono for every round I shoot during load development. It simply saves ammo by killing two birds with one stone.
I find the longest load that will work in the chosen gun AND mags and load about 30-50 rounds. Then I shorten and do the same. Shorten some more and do the same, etc. If my gun takes 1.15 just fine as a max I load them plus some @1.145,1.140,1.135, and probably 1.130. For that entire lot I leave the powder the same. Then do a whole other series with .2 lower and a whole series .2 higher.
Every round gets shot through the chrono onto a target to check PF, SD, accuracy, tumbling and position of the group on target, as well as the function and handling of the gun.
In my opinion, true load development takes hundreds of rounds. I think when I worked up my production loads i shot the better part of a thousand rounds to find what was for me, the ideal load on all counts.
My Open gun seemed to be less finicky so I shot about 500 various loads through it before I found what I was looking for.
Keep in mind all of the above only pertains to one particular bullet. Switch from 124's to 147 and do it all over again.
When I developed loads for my rifles, I don't ever recall needing more than 150 rounds to develop a sub moa load. And that is for 7mm-08, 300 win, 30-378, & 204.
Actually, 150 rounds to find sub moa for a bolt gun seems borderline excessive.
At this point, I'd settle for "simple" accuracy out of my 9mm loads.
If you are happy with "simple" accuracy out of your 9mm then that is a different thing altogether as opposed for developing a competition load. At least it should be? One thing is for sure, too each his own and YMMV for sure!
My goals with a rifle is to have the fastest accurate load possible. Helps with the longer shots. OAL is huge for all my rifles except for the Weatherby, due to its free bore. Some rifle/bullet combos need more/less space between the bullet & the rifling. This is where the different bullet ogive can give a reloader hell.
Anyhow, happy reloading. As for me, I'm reading more and more about others struggling with the same type of handgun bullet as I am. It's become a real PITA.
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In my experience, plated bullets are quite a bit more picky about the proper crimp than lead or coated bullets.
I hope this will solve my accuracy issues.
Gunsmith Fit Barrel
in Glock
Posted
Briley, but their barrels are 1:16.