theautobahn
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Posts posted by theautobahn
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I'm looking to get back into steel challenge this summer. I built my kid a dedicated 10/22, but I've been shooting an older quad-railed 15-22, pretty much bone stock (different grip, stock, and a cheap Primary lower 1/3 red dot). I had bought a CMC 2.5# flat trigger to put in it, but was reading somewhere that the Geissele S3G / SD-3G are popular choices. I have a SD3G in my 3 gun lower and love it. And I happened to get a used SD3G recently. I was going to sell it, but am now torn. Do put one of the two aftermarket triggers in the gun (SD3G or CMC 2.5#), or do I leave the factory trigger in since I'm pretty much a C class shooter (with the factory trigger) at this point and don't see committing enough time to SC to improve much beyond a B class shooter?
I guess I'm looking for feedback on those three trigger options in a 15-22:
- Factory trigger
- Geissele SD-3G
- CMC 2.5# Flat
Thank you.
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19 hours ago, Braxton1 said:
99.9% of those were made to fit 1911 and 2011 pattern guns. They could also fit some of the square trigger guard CZ's. A smaller number were made to fit Glocks. Those are the only two fitments that I am aware of.
The 1911/2011 one had a thin piece of plastic on the bottom of the locking insert that was removable. The holster fit a 1911, Para, Caspian (and others with thin steel trigger guards) with that piece in-place. Remove it and it'd fit the thick trigger guards of the STI/SV plastic grips.
Awesome, thank you for the information. I can try a 1911 and a glock and see what happens. I appreciate it!
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I recently traded for a stack of random stuff (mostly reloading equipment and components). At the bottom of the pile, there was a seemingly new in package, Safariland 014 holster in red. I can't find any information on the holster (nor a label on the packaging) to determine what the model / gun fit is. Is there a trick to this that I'm missing? How do I determine what model the holster fits (so I can sell it - I don't think I'll ever shoot open)?
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Since I owned both already, I put them both into lowers. I put the CMC into the Palmetto AR9 lower and the Rise into a PSA AR-V.
I have dry-fired both at home but not actually run them on the range - and I acknowledge that sometimes triggers do feel different when actually shooting. But my initial impressions are this -
I strongly dislike the little 90 degree "hook" at the bottom of the CMC trigger - it rubs on my finger to the point I'm now rethinking putting the 2.5lb CMC I have into the 15-22 I use for Steel Challenge sometimes.
The CMC has a much longer reset. Like- over twice as long. It's gross.
I'm going to run it for a bit and see how I actually like it, but as of right now, the heavy nod goes to the Rise PCC trigger.
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I have a pile of short PCCs (pistols w/ braces and one SBR [for now]). AR9, AR-V, AK-V, Scorpion, MP5 clone, etc. They're a ton of fun, but none will ever be my "go to" for a defensive use. I'd always rather have something in at least .223. Similar size platform but huge difference in terminal ballistics and barrier penetration (for a truck gun). Don't get me wrong - folding / collapsing stocks make them awfully handy, but to me, not enough of a difference that I'm not always going to grab one of my 11.5 ARs.
That all said, I'm in the process of finally building a couple of 16" rifles for gaming. But that's all they'll ever be used for. I just don't see the benefits to a 16" PCC for anything else.
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I have a stack of PCCs, but they're all short and built for fun, not really for competition. AR9, AR-V, AK-Vs, AP5, Scorpion, etc. I'm planning on building two 16" guns to run in competitions (USPSA, 2 gun, Steel Challenge) and for fun. One is going to be a Palmetto AR-9. I bought a used upper off a forum and have the stripped lower to build out. I also have a second AR-V receiver set I can build as well. I tend to prefer the double feed Scorpion / Palmetto mags, so I'm thinking I'll run the AR-V and my kiddo can run the AR-9. I have a CMC PCC trigger and a RISE Rave PCC trigger. I'm trying to figure out which to put into which and am looking for anyone with experience with both.
My scorpion has an HBI, My AK-V's have ALG triggers, my AR9 and AR-V have POF 3.5 pound flat triggers (I like those, especially the use of the urethane bumpers to tension them). And the majority of my AR's have Geissele or LaRue triggers. So I'm used to snobbish triggers.
I also have some spare LaRue 2 stage triggers floating around but while I like them quite a bit, I prefer a quicker / shorter reset in a competition gun, but am open to listening to dissenting opinions there. I also have a take-out SD3G but my understanding is they're not great for PCC's.
Thanks in advance. -
As far as comb height, like has been said, you need to bring the gun to your eye, not your eye to the gun. The optic should line up when you mount the gun. Try doing it eyes closed several times. When you open your eye, the dot should be centered, more or less. You can adjust optic riser height or cheek risers accordingly.
As far as LOP, find what's comfortable for you. If shooting fairly static, I usually go one click in from full extension as that gives me the most stability. But if I know I'm going to be doing a lot of positional shooting / contorting, I'll run two or three clicks in. I don't feel it messes with my cheek weld / sight alignment too much and gives me more maneuverability.
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This is a thing I first experienced when I was into martial arts as a young person and it's carried over into shooting as an old man. My favorite students are the ones that ask "why" a lot - and sometimes I stop and scratch my head and don't have a good answer other than "because that's the way I was taught / have always done it," which we all know is a crap reason. So I'm forced to reevaluate.
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On 3/9/2023 at 3:54 PM, Joe4d said:
Id sell them both and get something decent to begin with. You are pooring good money after bad.
Id rather start with a short block kit and a Kuhnhausen manual.
Been their done that didnt get the cookie with a Rock Island.. Gun is a POS,, had plenty of Wilson and Ed brown parts on hand plus tools and know how so figured no biggy, but gun is out of spec, never had so much problems fitting basic 1911 parts,, I mean even a new mainspring housing was a PIA.. Still dont have a recoil spring setup I am happy with, Its a 6 inch and had a 2 piece that just like other 2 pieces guide rods I have used likes to come unscrrewed as you shoot. no matter what I do to them. STI one was same way.That’s a thought. When I started pricing upgrades, that put me at the price of an entry level “decent” 1911 (that would still need work). I’ve been checking the classifieds of various forums for a used one that works for me to no avail.
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15 hours ago, Guy Neill said:
In SS if you are moving, you're trloading, so a mag well is beneficial. Since you also specfying new grips, you might look at the Hogue Extreme grips ttat have the grips extended along with a new mainspring housing that is also extended, making a mag well from the three.
How are the sights?
Three dot (white) sights. Not my preference but not awful. If I left then, I’d at least black out the rears. I believe they are Novak cuts so was going to throw some FO front / black rear on there (most likely trijicon).
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13 minutes ago, dapribek said:
I’d sell the .45 if I were you. I’d go with the over sized mag release and keep the ambi safeties, so when you shoot weak hand, you can transfer your gun to that hand and then take the safety off. BTW, some mag wells require a longer base pad to seat the mags securely. Good luck!
Thank you. That's part of why I went with the IPSC well and not the Ice. I'm leaning toward the Brownell's 9mm mags, as the Tripp's would be worth more than the pistol by the time I got done buying them. Ed brown has a cool upgrade program and I have some crappy Korean .45 1911 mags I could trade in, but his 9mm mags are 9 rounders. The Brownell 9mm mags have pads and I believe they'll work with the IPSC well.
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I've taken the last year (or two) off from shooting competitions. I'm planning on jumping back in to USPSA and Steel Challenge this year. I generally run either Ltd or CO with a Glock or M&P. Well, I had the bright idea to try Single Stack just for funsies for at least a match or two. So I picked up a 9mm and a .45 Tisas Duty 5" (roast away). I had googled what the absolute cheapest, semi-reliable 1911 was (I don't want to dive that hard into SS as I suspect I'll stick with striker guns long term). But... I recognize I probably ought to put at least a few dollars into the gun and I'm wondering what everyone thinks are necessary upgrades, and how I might go about keeping this a "budget project".
I'm thinking a magwell, grips, oversized mag release, a single side thumb safety, and sights. My hands are wide, but my fingers are short otherwise I'd skip the mag release, but I have to turn the pistol (most of them, actually) significantly to reach the release. Is the single side safety that important or should I keep the ambi safety? I'm leaning toward the Dawnson IPSC magwell. Pretty open on grips - G10 of some variety, I'm guessing. And probably the Trijicon FO front / black rear sights.
Last note - I think I'm going to shoot the 9mm and sell the .45 unless I can figure out what makes this particular .45 "punchier" than all the other 1911's I've shot over the years. It smacks the web of my hand pretty aggressively, and several other shooters agreed.
TLDR: Help me dump money into my $350 budget 1911... -
On 9/26/2022 at 8:36 AM, bulldog009 said:
YetiWurks is one of the OG aftermarket Scorpion grips.
I found this photo on a quick google search that shows several grips side by side (From left to right: Elite Customs Bren Style Grip, Paske Pathfinder, Apex, Switchback with Everest, Actual Matterhorn, OEM.) -
So from that, it looks like the Paske is the most vertical of the options. I couldn't find a direct comparison between the Yeti and the Magpul, but it looks like the Magpul is about the same angle as the Yeti.
I ended up going with a Magpul again. I liked it well enough on my first one that I'll run it for a while on this one until I get a chance to play with the Yeti or Paske or Apex on someone elses' guns. Thank you for doing what my lazy butt should have done in the first place...
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There's a used Scorpion I won on Gunbroker waiting for me to pick up at my LGS. It will be my second (sold the first one then regretted the decision). The new (to me) one has a factory grip on it. I'm not a fan of the grip angle as I prefer a more vertical grip (I run mostly BCM and B5 on my AR's and Magpul K2's on my AK's). I swapped my first Scorpion to a Magpul grip and was very happy with it. That said, the Yeti looks interesting, but I haven't had a chance to touch one, let alone run one. Anyone tried both the Magpul and YetiWurks and have a preference? Any other suggestions for a more vertical aftermarket grip?
TLDR: Looking for aftermarket grip suggestions for CZ Scorpion (preferably more vertical).
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You guys rock! Thanks for all the suggestions. I tried my ~25 year old Columbia fishing hat over my muffs yesterday and it worked but wasn't ideal. I think I'm going to get something similar (as suggested above) for the kiddo to try, and get us some long sleeved fishing shirts
Thank you!
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I'm taking my 14 year old to a carbine course in August and I'm looking for some sun protection ideas - we're both going to be running electronic muffs. I have a Columbia fishing hat, boonie-style with a wider brim, that I THINK is loose enough (it's elastic and has a drawstring) that it might go over the band, but wondering what everyone else does. We both have shot matches before so are ok with regular brimmed hats and sunscreen, but I'm looking for some other options.
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I bought a few Q Whistle Tips at a good price to use as blast diverters / thread protectors for my Cherry Bombs. The versions I got are in the raw and not PVD coated. What's the best (and most cost effective) way to coat them / dull them so they lose the shiny gold luster (and preferably become black)? Rattle can them? Does it have to be a heat resistant paint? I have a buddy that does Duracoat, but I'm not excited about that option and would rather do something simple myself. Recommendations?
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Broke my el-cheapo New Frontier pin. Replaced it with a CMMG pin and spring and it's been fine thus far (but only a couple thousand rounds, if that through it). POF trigger.
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I need to grab some pictures, but I ended up doing a LLW barrel (swings super fast), an Axiom stock, and a bunch of Kidd parts (trigger kit (2 1/4 lbs), firing pin, recoil spring, buffer, charging handle, bolt release, pic rail, etc.). I polished the bolt and tried beveling the back edge, but I'm pretty sure he's just getting a new bolt for Christmas. Oh, and I ended up buying a Holosun tube sight for it.
I wanted to thank all of you for your suggestions. It came out really nicely and the kiddo is super happy with it. I'm honestly kinda jealous. -
8 hours ago, zzt said:
Personally, I run a 2 lb. trigger on my single stage Kidd. What ammo your gun will like depends on which chamber you have in your LLW barrel. If you ordered it with a Benz chamber you WILL have to be careful what ammo you run in it. It has to be clean, so that means no bargain ammo or heavily waxed ammo. Wolf, Norma Tac-22, SK, Eley all run well and are clean and accurate. I like CCI AR-Tactical because they work and I can use the same ammo in my RFPO gun.
If you didn't specify a chamber you got a Sport chamber, so you can run just about anything.
I didn't specify and would have gone Sport anyway, probably. This gun was more for going fast than to put all the shots on a dime at 100. I have a soft spot for .22's and have other guns that could do that if I was interested in that sort of thing. But I've been on more of a Ricky Bobby ("I wanna go fast") kick lately.
If it were for me, I'd go with the lightest pull for sure. But didn't know what people's opinions were on a 2# trigger for a 12 year old (he just had his birthday). Like I said before, in my opinion, either you have trigger discipline or you don't, and 1 pound isn't going to make a huge difference. -
So... he's getting everything this weekend.
I ended up going with:
Axiom stockWiland LLW barrel
Kidd trigger (and a boatload of their other small parts including slingshot upgrade, rail, recoil spring, etc.)
I'll just polish the factory bolt and receiver a touch and call those good.
Two additional questions:
I got the trigger spring kit - what weight do people feel is appropriate? I've always been a "either your finger discipline is good, or it isn't" kind of guy and run light triggers on my stuff. But not sure how a sub-3 pound trigger would be for a kid...
Ammo? Do people have a preferred .22 load? I value cleanliness over accuracy for steel challenge since I HATE cleaning guns. We ran Rem Thunderbolts a couple matches ago and that was a horror show of dirtiness (we both had FTE's toward the end). I'd like something I can buy a boatload of. Mini-mags? Something else? -
6 minutes ago, EarlKeese said:
It's a form 1 30cal sub can(my first) and while heavy(15oz), it suppresses the .22 pretty well . I needed a comp for the 10/22 for timer purposes, so I said what the heck and bought the taper mount. I'll move the comp/mount to another rifle when the stamp comes in for my rimfire can.
Its a fun little rifle, my daughter loves it. Good luck with your build.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Just be careful - if you shoot a bunch of .22 rimfire, it tends to gum up the can, then when you shoot a higher pressure centerfire round through it, you can cause some issues (read: metal chunks flying). As long as you can clean baffles / internals when going from rimfire to centerfire, you should be good to go.
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11 hours ago, EarlKeese said:
Had an old 10/22 in the safe so I threw this one together for my daughter. Kidd trigger parts & ULW barrel. Plastic C-More 8MOA on a used Striplin mount i picked up here. Comp is a Griffin Ti taper mount (for suppressor use around the house). Axiom stock is cheap, light, and adjustable. Right after I installed the Kidd barrel, Wiland introduced their shrouded barrel.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Oof. Centerfire can on a rimfire? Does it disassemble for cleaning? We have a direct thread rimfire can, so while I don't "need" the comp for a .22, it's nice to have the threaded barrel.
I'm going to try to find a cheap Axiom and go from there. This build is pretty close to exactly what I was thinking of doing. Thank you. -
10 hours ago, Braxton1 said:
The OP didn't specify the age or size of his son, but I did learn something great this weekend. A customer's very small son shot my T/CR-22 at our local SCSA match and it was much too big for him. I measured his Length-of-Pull and it only was 10.25". The LoP on the rifle is 13.5". I checked the Blackhawk website for the specs on the Axiom for the 10/22. It goes all the way down to 9.5", which should be plenty short for this young man, so we ordered one.
I wouldn't go too expensive on the compensator. IMHO, the only real purpose for a comp on an RFRO is to make it loud enough that the timer will pick up its shots. Additionally, the skinny barrel on the base model T/CR-22 is plenty light. No real need to pay for a carbon-wrapped or aluminum barrel. (My T/CR-22 weighs 4.57# with the SPARC II optic. My MLR-22 is right there at 4.72# with a C-more.)
Sorry. He's a 5'2" 11 year old. But his upper body strength is a bit lacking. He struggles holding long guns up for too long. Otherwise I'd probably let him try my SBR PCC.
I think the TCR's are solid guns, but I kinda got the itch and just want to build something. But maybe I'll just get a CMORE and stick it on his rifle for now to make sure he actually enjoys it. But then again, I kinda want something for steel challenge, too...
PS - I looked at my original thread and did mention his age, but it's buried in that wall of text...
M&P 15-22 Trigger Question
in Steel Challenge
Posted
Awesome info, thanks guys.
What is everyone running for FCG pins? CMC? KNS? Factory?