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Livn68

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Posts posted by Livn68

  1. How much pressure does it take to collapse......needs to be greater than the pressure of the recoil spring at that point.....or it's useless.
    It's got to hold up to .13 splits.....remember that is about 462 cycles per minute.

    I don't know what the measurement is on how much force it takes to collapse, but I do know it takes more than the blitzkrieg does, and people love them. What it's mainly doing for me is absorbing the shock when the buffer bottoms out in the tube. I see no issues with it holding up to those kinds of splits with it having an internal spring return. With the amount of stroke it has, I have a hard time seeing it getting fully collapsed under normal USPSA shooting conditions. Perhaps it would on a 20rd dump at .13 splits. Even at that rate, it would just be a 6.5oz solid buffer.
  2. Great work!  From the quick research I have done, this looks to be rated at best for 41 cycles per minute.  Apparently it is capable of recovering quicker than that? I have been thinking about buying a hydraulic buffer to try.  Thanks for posting this.

    It does have a spring return. Given the speed of the pcc action I doubt it does a "full cycle" by the manufacturer's definition. From the videos I've seen of the blitzkrieg, I think this piston is a little stronger meaning it doesn't compress as easily.
  3. Can you show the internals? Are the pistons available from commercial sources?
     
    Mick

    Here's the piston I used. It's made by ACE industrial. The body is threaded 9/16-18. That's all the info on have on it off hand. The end bumper is from another buffer but kak industries sells them for a buck. The rest was turned from 316 stainless. b621a94c53e67de334e02794cf6e8377.jpg
  4. I've had my eye on a blitzkrieg hydraulic buffer for a while now, but didn't want to jump in on it just to try it out.

     

    Working at a company that designs and builds automated/ robotic machines for manufacturing has its bensfits, like spare parts bins that have some pretty cool stuff in them like the pistons we use to prevent moving parts from coming to a slamming stop.

     

    I spent some time on Monday after hours and turned some stainless to make myself a hydraulic buffer to try out in the pcc. It finished out at the same length (when compressed) as my 7.5oz KVP buffer and weighs in at 6oz.

     

    I ran 100rds through the carbine with the new buffer, a Smalley H7 spring, and a quarter to separate the H7 and buffer spring. So far im really impressed with how much better the dot tracks, and I feel like the sproing sound from the buffer tube has subsided. I do have a old spikes H2 buffer that has crushed tungsten in it that I may use to add slightly more weight to the buffer but I didn't leave much room between the piston and buffer bumper.f7452057eacf951f441f863f58c04bc5.jpg0dbcb8495da70916d8e7c8da0afd5b01.jpg9fa4834efb757c0cadf710244fecd1a8.jpg48d8320bf6660aa6bcca58e9167cf573.jpg

  5. Short version:

     

    I need to shoot faster to be competitive in PCC. What drills and tips do you guys have for picking up the tempo (splits and transitions).

     

    Long version:

    I shot my second PCC match on 7/9. The first was a classifier in April. I felt pretty good all match with no Ds or Ms, and not too many Cs. I did have one hit on a NS which sucks. I felt like I was moving pretty fast, but video determined that to be a lie. I was shooting 115g WWB instead of my 124g load bc my press isn't setup at the new place yet, and I think my dot wasn't tracking as reliably as a result. I felt myself stuttering on the trigger a few times due to the long travel to get to reset. At the time of the match, I was running a milspec fcg with jp springs, but will have a 24c for this coming weekends match.

     

    I don't believe my gear is the bulk of the problem though. I think my stage planning and inefficient movement through the stages hurt me the most. Coming from primarily a target shooting background, I think I'm spending too much time waiting for the perfect sight picture.

     

    For those of you that are more experienced than I, I'd appreciate if you could take a look at my match and give some insight where I could improve.

     

    I apologize for the painfully slow to watch stages in advance

     

     

    6fa6d4ee48632d84db809c671cff00ca.jpg

  6. as Eric and gerritm commented, my only problem has been a short leade area in the throat of a PSA 16" complete upper... the nitrided treatment is pretty tough, and I had to put the barrel in a lathe to get enough force for the reamer to bite...I have a 10.5" upper also from PSA and it did not have the problem....

    How much did you end up extending the throat?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Mine was built on a budget because I wanted to get it done in time for the classifier yesterday, and wanted to make sure I liked the sport enough to invest more in the rifle.

    16" AR Stoner 1:10 barrel- cut a small ramp in and did some polishing.
    Anderson lightweight upper-ejection port milling done by me.
    Matrix arms fox trot handguard with top rail milled off.
    Spinta arms bcg with KVP 7.5oz buffer and 308 spring.
    NFA lower completed by me from 80%. Standard milspec lpk with some trigger polishing. I cerakoted the upper, lower, and rail magpul FDE.

    "finished" it about 2 weeks ago and it's been through 650rds no issues.

    Switched from the holosun to a vortex venom on a riser.

    I took 4th of 58 overall and 1st of 8 PCC. Not bad for my first PCC match and only 2nd or 3rd USPSA match. Now I'm hooked and the build will get some go fast parts. 02e5cdfa9a1c3b00387866f4b8e426cd.jpgb46e5bf904810351e51a04433a74cdc3.jpg3f9f6eb014db648a6f171001220890a3.jpg2b2f3c2a18a28b69f68178776ca1fa67.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. Just placed my order for a FS P320 in .40 so while I wait for it to arrive, I've decided to order a new guide rod for it. I plan to order a few 1911 springs in different weights to tune it for the load and would like you input. I plan on running 40 minor for IDPA and possibly USPSA Production, but would also like to know what weight is recommended for major loads if I decide to do a Limited configuration.

    Thanks guys

  9. When I got started, it was with dad's equipment under his supervision. It was a hobby and a way to have the best quality ammo for our rifles. Dad is a hunter mainly, whereas I took an interest in competitive shooting. From there I made the plunge on my own equipment to have ammo at will, and so I could get more bang for my buck. Now a days I have the progressive for handgun and single stage for my wildcat rifle calibers, so I'd say part of why I reload is because they don't sell the calibers I shoot at the stores.

    I forget where I heard it, but someone put it this way:

    "Would you rather have store bought Chips Ahoy, or grandma's homemade chocolate chip cookies?..."

  10. I picked up the black fluted version to run with my SWR Spectre II. I swapped the hammer bushing with the tandemcross to eliminate the mag disconnect safety and ground the metal tab off the LCI (until I decided to buy the filler). For the trigger, I only replaced the sear with a volquartsen and can't see it getting any better with additional parts. Great pistol and very easy handling even with the can on it.

  11. I should also add, this was out of a RIA TAC Ultra FS that I was running in L10. The frequent FTF and other issues led to me selling it off for a Witness Elite Limited. I haven't hit the range with it yet so I don't know if the problem will persist. It was just bugging me.

    I'll adjust my FCD for less crimp and run the Tanfo through the paces. I appreciate all the feedback

  12. Thanks to some members on here, I'm a happy owner of a VERY lightly used, and in pristine condition Elite Limited .40S&W! It came to me with the 13# hammer and 10.75# recoil spring, EG Trigger, and EG Grips. The previous owner had done some polishing of the internals, and it shows with the smooth, light SA pull that breaks around 2# (according to my highly accurate trigger finger :P )

    I've shot IDPA for a couple of years and just moved into USPSA this year. I wasn't very far into my first USPSA match before deciding that this is the shooting sport I want to focus on. I started off with a RIA TAC Ultra FS in 40 that I shot in Limited 10, but its questionable reliability left much to be desired. In the meantime I picked up a STI LDC frame that I planned to build into a limited gun. After being pointed in the direction of Tanfos by my friend, and some research, I decided to sell the RIA and STI and get the beauty in the pics.

    I picked up 4 more mags and have 3 Henning/ Grams kits to install. I also picked up the DAA Racer kit from CED to bet properly geared up. Now to hit the LnL and run some drills in preparation for the August match next week!

    Here she is!

    79615A7C-F5BF-4D8A-810C-D45758E9FDDB.jpg

    F2173FE6-BD9C-4FE4-839E-5D690FC5722B.jpg

    0B354710-F753-4250-A51D-9A649DE2DF21.jpg

    27A00113-4E89-4175-A3F3-8169CBEF5A47.jpg

  13. What all of you are describing is an undersized bullet. Are you by any chance using an FCD for a crimp die or have you pulled a bullet after loading it and measured it against an unloaded bullet? I bet you will find a loaded round smaller in diameter. This will cause the coating to be stripped off and lead the muzzle end of the barrel and also cause a lot of extra smoke. If you are using an FCD it is sizing your bullet down as it goes through the carbide ring at the bottom of the die. It also could be caused by an unusually large bore or over crimping, either way this is your problem unless you are damaging the coating when loading. Plated bullets or straight lead will not solve this, they will perform exactly the same. You need to check these things and find out why it is happening to you and not the other thousands using coated bullets with 100% success. I bet it does not take long to locate this problem when you start checking the pulled bullets.

    Thanks for your feedback. I haven't had a chance to pull some yet, but what youre saying makes sense to me. I initially thought that I may not be flaring enough which was then stripping the coating, but I quickly remedied that.

    It sounds more likely that I am over-crimping my rounds with the Lee FCD. What is the preferred diamater at the case mouth of a properly crimped round?

  14. Yes, the last couple of inches of the barrel is where the leading was most substantial. I'll be contacting SnS for more info on the situation. Initially I thought that I may not have been flaring enough, and causing the coating to flake off leaving exposed lead, but the amount I'm seeing makes me think that I could have just gone with straight lead.

  15. I recently picked up 1k 180g FP coated bullets from SnS to try out. I noticed when running them over approx 4.0g TG (Dont have my data handy) that I got a fair amount of leading in the barrel, and they also seemed almost as smoky as regular cast bullets.

    Any thoughts as to why this might be?

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