mfs
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Posts posted by mfs
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1 hour ago, PatriotDefense said:
The FPB is completely functional after modification.... it just needs .200" removed from the OAL and the spring shortened.
Mark mounted a Vortex Viper to his slide and out of the 10 or so Viper cuts we have done his was the first that needed a shim placed under it due to the fact he ran out of elevation while trying to zero the gun. He managed to find a shim that worked great for his application and hes up and running.
Putting a pic for me doesnt work due to file size. Sorry. It looks just like the one pictured above. Except mine is a chrome stock 2
I estimate it is nearly .400" lower than with the dove tail plate.
The only draw back is you can't go back to irons with the dove tail removed
It is awesome. I highly recommend Patriot Defense. They keep improving the platform.
Mark
Ace
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Patriot defense just sent mine back. I did not get the slide roughed up but the lower position is awesome. I did have to use the 1 deg. shim but I am now really pleased. I still have the front sight on the gun and the dot is right on it at 18 yards.
They did a great job and they redid the firing pin block.
just under 140. plus freight
great job and I am very glad I had it done
Mark
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The main issue was caused by the spring that pushes up on the trigger bar. It was too weak and caused different strike issues and non function. I used it last night and had no issues.
run CO with it and it is good to go.
I even went down to a 3 moa dot instead of the viper 6 moa
That was better also. This was indoor but I don't think it will suffer when outdoor. I think I may get the slide milled and mate it permanent instead of a dove tail
all in all very happy with their work and the platform
Mark
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I bought a stock 2 used. It was OK but not like the new one I had previously. In the new one I had put a bolo and titan hammer and some other Patriot Defense parts.
The used one I tried to do the same to it but had no luck at all. Was having strange problems. So I bit the bullet so to speak and sent to Patriot Defense to have their gunsmith look at it.
It is like a different gun. It runs better than my original.
Just wanted to throw a shout out to Joe and JoAnna for getting it taken care of in approx. 1 week and doing such a great job on it.
I am one happy customer
Mark
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I love mine with the red dot and egw bracket. Because it is on the slide it does jump a lot. But after a month you get used to it.
I agree with some FB posts. Rules need to change in CO
Must be over 60 to join in.
Mark
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On 11/1/2017 at 4:12 PM, johnbu said:
Don't cut them!
SELL them and buy the correct "short" version.
I have a set of silver extreme grips for a Stock 2 that I don't use. Anyone interested.
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Looking for a decent price
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On 6/5/2017 at 3:20 AM, MemphisMechanic said:
What brand of primer are you using? With a 650 I find that the non-adjustable priming system simply won't seat a CCI any deeper than .002" to .003" below flush in many brands of mixed brass.
Consequently, I run a lot of hammer spring and don't worry about the gun going click on anything below flush or with factory ammo.
I agree with your measurement. But the CCI is slightly longer than the winchester. so they are both seated and that is why there is a difference. win .005-.006
cci .002-.003
anyway that is what I measure
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22 hours ago, Balakay said:
Thanks for the videos!!
Perfect timing--I bought a Limited Pro today
Where did yu buy your limits pro
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Thanks I'm going thru the other post
johnbu
what is the benefit of grams follower
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Has anyone thought of a stock 2 for carry optics?
It seems too heavy to me.
I did change the grips to Henning aluminum grips without changing optic it is just over 45.36 oz
Take the rear sight off and add optic is plus a couple of oz. Base pads back to original and I think I am chasing 3 or 4 ounces still
Are there any thin grips that weigh less? like a g10 grip
I am coming up about 4 oz too heavy. Has anyone come up with a way to get it down a little. Lim Pro will save 4 oz on stock and that might make it easier to make weight. But I am looking for ideas you all may have
weight of eg grip = ?
That scale grip = ?
I will weigh the henning grip and the original grip tonight to see where we are with those
mfs
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My thought was it will push full that much further. I have no idea if this would help. It is just thinking out loud.
by the way I do have the new patriot firing pin and the PD firing pin spring.
With Winchester I am 100% good with the 15.5 spring.
I also have some cci to use up and that is why I have to stay with the 15.5 spring.
I am using the extended firing pin block
8 lbs da
2 7/8 Sa
Love the gun but thought this might work with 14 lb hammer spring
I have not sent barrel out but will eventually. No one has the tooling yet
Mine plunks ok but bullet doesn't spin
I am loading to 1.100 OAL
I actually like the trigger pull now and I am getting used to the 8 lb double action.
One other point is I wanted to go CO but with stock 2 I am too heavy with empty mag by 5 or 6 oz. not sure where that can be removed
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has anyone tried to mill .050 (or file) off the back of the firing pin retainer. It would have to be larger than the hammer face but perimeter would need to stay same thickness to slide in snugly.
I just thought it would give the firing pin a little more pop from the hammer
Havent done it yet. just was thinking about it and it would be pretty easy
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Ouch
what happened to all the harmonious helpful chatter.
Calm down boys.
I have gotten good info from all parties involved
Great news the weekend is here and good weather in the midwest. put away the polish and go out and shoot!!
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On 7/27/2016 at 10:24 PM, ShortBus said:
I'd be down for one of the dovetail mounts for a stockii.
I think egw has a mount for lpa
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On Friday, February 03, 2017 at 5:09 PM, MemphisMechanic said:
If you aren't planning to strip the gun down, then yes.
Drive the roll pin out of the trigger with a properly sized *roll pin* punch. Leave the punch through the frame so that the trigger and trigger spring stay aligned. (If you pull the punch out, the spring flies into the next county)
...And simply use a plastic mallet to gently tap the the CGW Canik into the gun - pushing the punch back out and leaving your new pin in the frame.
Thanks !!
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On 2/1/2017 at 6:11 PM, MemphisMechanic said:
In my opinion:
If I were to build a "budget gun" for a friend that prioritizes going bang with crappy ammo and s smooth trigger... over an ultra-light & short trigger?
10lb recoil spring
Henning or Xtreme guide rod
Dawson front sight .160 or .140 high
Patriot trigger spring
Wolff 15lb or EGD Medium hammer spring
CGW Canik trigger pin (soooo much easier to take gun apart)
And a full night's worth of polishing. Not to make it a lighter pull, but to enhance feeding and reliability with lightened springs.
memphis
is there any thing to know before trying it install canik trigger pin
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On Friday, April 15, 2016 at 3:09 PM, MilkMyDuds said:
I have used factory wood, Henning and SSI scale grips with no problems. Few hundred rounds on each.
The only issue is with the EGD extreme grips, and only on the right side grip. The left side grip has held tight through a couple thousand rounds (after I used blue Loctite). However, the right side grip becomes loose after 100 or so rounds even with blue Loctite. When it becomes loose, I can feel the panel moving a bit to start with, then the screw becomes loose and I can unscrew it easily as if no Loctite has ever been applied.
I noticed the backside of the screw area on the right side grip appears to be scratched, maybe due to movements/friction with the frame after it becomes loose. These scratch marks do not appear on the left side grip. And the frame of the gun around the screw hole is smooth with no obvious marks or burrs.
No problem when dry firing. Only becomes loose in live fire, after 100 or so rounds. I suppose the vibration is causing this? I am surprised Loctite cannot hold
What would be the best way to keep the right side grip tight all the time? Any suggestions? Should I try Loctite red? Besides using the original extreme screws, I have also tried using Henning screws. Same result. Always becomes loose after 100 or so rounds.
Thanks.
Put a tiny oring under head and screw it down. Mine stays tight with it
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Johnbu what do you use to polish the firing pin channel
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So far I love the tanfo shooting
I don't like all of the fiddling. I'm agreeing with MM and going to quit tinkering and keep some bullets with federal primers for the top round in the mag. Using winchester primers I'm getting 100% on SA. Almost as good on DA. With Federal 100% Da.
I went with the wolfe 14 lb main spring and it seems to be a step in the right direction
Currently no FPB installed. Will go back to that when satisfied with reliability
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On 12/16/2016 at 9:43 AM, PatriotDefense said:
Thats half of the issue we've seen.... The leading edge that the lip of the grip engages is another big problem we've seen. I just hate grips that constantly loosen up during use unless you use some kind of thread lock....
I use a tiny oring under head of screw. Seems to work.
grips are not getting loose anymore
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On Tuesday, December 27, 2016 at 10:06 AM, Makdaddy said:
I found some time this weekend to fit my Henning contour grips on my new Limited and take a range trip. I was braced for a battle with the grips to get a proper fit, had a file and dremel ready. Turns out all i needed was a torx wrench. They slide right on and holes lined up perfectly. I just got the gun a week ago and fired 200rds of factory white box and some PMC. Gun ran great , but had 1 mag stick and it was the one that came with the gun. Going to give it a squeeze in the vice , all other MecGar mags with Henning base pads worked perfectly, no hangups and fed great.
Mine fit perfectly also.they are great but kind of expensive.
Now just need to shoot more
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I was running into the problem of second to last round jamming.
followed johnbu advise and polished the timing block (rib) and put a chamfer on the corner. So far slidelock every time, all mags.
thanks for the tip
Red Dot Slide Milling
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted
John
I had a similar problem with my viper. Went through 2 of them. Check if it is a really tight fit. In my opinion you don't want it to have pressure from the forward or rear. if it is a tight fit I sanded the viper on the front and rear so it fit in with no pressure. After I did this it has not broken again.
The glass was coming loose at the top of the optic and pivoting rear. Then your dot is way off
When I used a plate in the dove tail, I never had a problem. there was no pressure on front or rear.