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Kevinj

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Posts posted by Kevinj

  1. The bends in my rod are not a perfect 90 degrees either. As Sarge said, assemble the fail safe rod with the Allen screws of the hopper loose. Then I operate the handle up and down a few times, sliding the white bushing up and down, which self centers the rod and hopper and then snug down the hopper. Mine ends up almost vertical.

    Yep, I had to square the bends up on mine to make it work right

  2. Excellent, thanks for the tips there guys. I am checking my current assembly with the new one once it arrives and going to do a side by side review and see what is going on.

    I am also going to a friends house this week who has a 650 and see if there are any other differences in setup as well.

    I hope to have it worked out before the weekend!

    Also check the wave washer, it needs to be a certain way and without getting the manual I cannot tell you. I can tell you mine was wrong from the factory and that caused it to hang up.

  3. Hi all,

    I posted a few weeks ago when I got a new 650. You guys were really helpful, so I wanted to share a couple of things I found:

    1. I asked what could be done to stop the endless procession of primers into (and off of) the ski jump when first trying to set up and dial in all the dies on a toolhead. The LnL doesn't replace a new primer with yet another new primer until the first one is inserted into a case--and I was very accustomed to this feature. When trying to run just one case through all the 650 stations to set everything up, the five escaping primers were bugging me. I figured out how to stop that. All you need to do is remove the large black sloping plastic piece on the very front of the machine that causes the primer feed to advance. It functions a lot like the large cam block on the casefeed. One screw removes it quickly. Just remember to screw it back in when you want primers to start up again. :)

    2. Similarly, if you're trying to run just one case through all the stations, you don't really want cases to keep flowing from the case feeder. I noticed on one of the Ultimate Reloader videos that Gavin had a special metal clip that keeps the pivoting case bushing shelf from moving. I made one myself out of a piece of stiff wire coat hanger. It looks like a gigantic staple. One end fits into the case bushing itself, and the other end sits on the outside of the press to keep the unit from returning back under the tube to fetch a new case.

    Hope this is helpful to someone out there....

    I do my setup different i guess. I hand feed in a case to set the powder, etc. Make a dummy for seating depth and crimp.

    No primers or cases in the machine yet.

    Then put in cases, pull the hamdle til one is over the primer station, remove case, put primers in the tube, advance by hand until a primer is at the station, insert case, push forward and all is in sync.

  4. im not new to reloading, but this is my first progressive press. i got a dillon 650. my problem is the priming disc is not spinning. the arm that grabs the primer disc does not go far enough forward (towards the shell plate) to fall in the hole where the primer was.

    sorry for the in correct terminoligy and thanks for the help

    Look at the book at be certain that the disk wave washer is put in properly.

  5. For the moment I will just drill the casefeeder mount and call Dillon to see if they will send a replacement if this doesn't work out. I also checked the powder measure assembly and have the failsafe rod straight. I guess I was just a little worried that things didn't line up at the start. Is it normal for the failsafe rod to jump around when the handle to the press is pulled down? I was under the impression it would move smoothly.

    I still haven't been able to figure out why the cases won't move into the shell plate completely. As far as I can tell there is nothing blocking the way, and I'm cycling the handle the whole way. There doesnt seem to be a problem with the old primers. I've tried moving it slowly and with what I would consider normal speed. Most of the time the case ends up with maybe 1/3 hanging off of the shell plate.

    Run a small fine cut file around the rod slots on the measure and remove any burrs. I also rebent the rod as the offsets were not 90°. So far as the shellplate issue: have you adjusted the cam rod???

  6. Patch,

    I messed up.... I am actually using 32 H&R mag dies and it was the nut not the pin. The right nut is not knurled to get case mouth clearance.

    Dillon did not have the 327 mag dies when I set up......The 32 mag is plenty of punch in my six shoother for practice and plinking!!!!

    Someday I will get the 327 dies for my single stage as I do not plan to load them in high volume.

    I am thinking they are same dies. I read a post someplace that stated the poster was using 32 mag dies for .327. Dillon would have to verify.

    The .327 case is 0.125 longer, but I can't see that being an issue. The web is way thick, however (about 3/16") and I think that's rub with my depriming rod. Email me your address, I will UPS you a couple empty cases. I just bought 1,000, and can spare two. Ruined two, so I will be down to 996 ;)

    I forgot to call Dillon, but will report what I learn.

    John

    On my Dillon dies the nut face is flush with the bottom of the die. I think I have Starline brass but is is 32H&R mag.

  7. Patch,

    I messed up.... I am actually using 32 H&R mag dies and it was the nut not the pin. The right nut is not knurled to get case mouth clearance.

    Dillon did not have the 327 mag dies when I set up......The 32 mag is plenty of punch in my six shoother for practice and plinking!!!!

    Someday I will get the 327 dies for my single stage as I do not plan to load them in high volume.

  8. I just tried to load 327 Fed Mag brass, and had my first stuck case ever. Turned out the deprime punch was stuck in the flash hole ... that's a new one for me.

    Anyone else load 327 Federal brass ?? The pin is 0.075" dia ... I guess I need something smaller. Tried the Dillon forum, and gave up. I can call them, but just wondering if anyone has been thru this ... maybe an after market deprime pin.

    Thanks ...

    John

    My 327 set came with the wrong pin, call dillon and get the right one!

  9. Steve,

    I know you said your bench was rock solid.

    So I'm just throwing this in here for future reference. Rule of thumb: You cannot make a reloading bench too solid. My bench was a Granger, heavy-duty laminated bench on a concrete floor, bolted to the wall in two places and to the floor in four. It was literally part of the building.

    be

    I had my bench that solid and still had a few issues. I made a brace for the case feeder and that fixed it. The machine needs to be rock solid to work smoothly.

  10. So just what is a 'chewed' primer? It has been asked a few times.

    Sorry, I don't have one handy to post a picture, i'll get that by tomorrow.

    Basically, it's all chewed up, mangled, broken into 2 pieces at times. I have to use a pair of tweezers at times to remove the broken primer from the primer wheel.

    Still sounds like a weak bench or rough operation of the press. If a primer jumps out of the disk then the shellholder rotation will tear it up.

  11. bench is 40" off the floor, some one PM'd me that there 650 and case feeder is 40 1/2" tall so id have 3"'s to get the brass in..... dont know -chris

    You may want to search around this site. Somewhere is data on recommended height of the press. It seems that the rec is your arm about straight out when seating the primer so you may be better served by lowering the bench to a more standard 34" to 36" height.

  12. I have owned my XL650 (used) for only a month and have loaded a lot of ammo with it already. When it works it is great but when it breaks it is frustrating.

    I bought the reloader used and when I first started using it the indexer ring broke. I called Dillon and they sent me a new one. No problem right, I talked to Dillon to make sure that the machine was right and even had a Grand Master come over and look it over. All is well again.

    Guess what last Saturday night, I broke another indexer ring, same place just like before. I call Dillon they told me that I didn't have th set screw set on the turret. But I did, they told me that since it is brass tipped it sometimes wears out and causes the shell plate to tighten as you cycle the reloader.

    So I am waiting for a new indexer ring, pawl and pawl spring and of course a new screw. But I am out of ammo and sitting on my hands.

    I think with all of the automation comes a lot of frustration in my opinion.

    '

    Can anyone offer me a solution to the breaking ring indexer. Everyone I know has never had one break.

    Thanks, Mark

    I have not broken any parts either but I have the spare parts kit on the bench ! If you have the spare the part it will not fail.

  13. Actually, neither one is the correct course of action.retracts fully. The punch should retract to somewhere between flush and .020" below flush.

    A stronger spring should not be necessary, nor should polishing the tip of the pawl. If severe burrs are present, then you can use a file to knock off the high points, but it should should be replaced if that bad. :ph34r:

    I had most of the above wrong with mine. Also the wave washer was installed upside down which was most of the problem. The curl of the washer will block the return od the arm. I done the deburr thing and it did not help much. It has been fine since it was reassembled properly and deburred.

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