Birdkiller

Armorers have diagnosed it as me screwing up. "Polished" the trigger bar too much, and after wear it doesn't engage with the striker properly. So, took a trip to Glockmeisters and it should be good. Thanks for the help, Cole

Wow, I can't believe I missed that other thread, I guess I can't give anyone a hard time for creating a duplicate thread anymore. Sorry about that. I dropped in the old connector (not Glock, like a Ghost rocket without the overtravel stop the shop I bought it from installed) and preliminary testing says that the problem may be fixed. I'll check it a little more thoroughly later tonight when nobody is trying to sleep, and also have an armorer check the Ghost connector contact geometry to the trigger bar to see if thats the definite problem. Thanks for the help guys, Cole

Hello Everyone, Wanted to start out, that this forum has already taught me a lot in the brief time I have been here, thanks to everyone for that. So, calling on your help again: The short version: My Gen 3 Glock 34 is releasing the striker without pulling the trigger. Long version: I added an extra firing pin safety (SP00084) to a recent order to mess around with polishing/slight rounding off the corner to try and lighten the take up. I dropped this part in after polishing/slight rounding, and did some dry firing. I broke the shot, and to feel my reset I kept the trigger depressed when I cycled the slide. I did this a few times without issue, but then I cycled the slide, with the trigger pulled, and when the slide went back into battery, the striker dropped. I tried to replicate this, and about 50 cycles later it did. So, I swapped out my FPS to the original piece and tried to replicate it, which, unfortunately I did. The summary: What happens is, that after cycling, when releasing the trigger out to reset (hardly any movement), the striker drops. The barrel has to be pointed down to make this happen. Additional History: I don't have an exact round count, but I do have a few thousand, less than 10,000 with a couple FTF, FTE, and I believe one double feed. I dry fire often. I just recently switched the connector out for a Ghost 3.5 (non rocket model) and a vickers slide lock lever but haven't test fired with this yet. This pistol was purchased in 2008-2009. So, any help as to what could be causing this? Thanks everyone, Cole

So, knocking off the corners of the grenade checkering prior to stippling is going to knock me out of production. Is that what I'm hearing? Thanks for the replies, BK

Hello, I've read the rule book on this section, and read a few threads, but haven't found my answer. I know stippling within the boundaries is legal, but is removing the factory texture prior to stippling to make the stipple more even legal? Specific I know, I just don't want to screw up my production gun. Thanks, Cole

Hello, I just wanted to introduce myself before I posted elsewhere so people had a baseline on me if they wanted. My name is Cole, I live in the Valley here in AZ. I'm currently a college student, which is unfortunately limiting my ipsc shooting (not that I did much before). I'm hoping to start back up shooting matches, as well as getting my reloading squared away. I've shot a few Tuesday night steal matches, and one Saturday USPSA match at Rio Salado. I've grown up shooting, but from a LEO perspective as opposed to the gamer perspective I tend to see at matches. Thanks for taking the time to read, glad to be here and hope to learn a lot. ~Cole