glc
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Posts posted by glc
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I cant tell you how much I have messed with the little adjustments on setting up for handgun.
Not sure of the other pistol calibers,but .40 S&W is not forgiving at all. Wondered what I might have gotten myself into by deciding on a Glock in 40 cal,then reading all the horror stories. What I have found is that if you cross your T's and dot all your I's,you'll be just fine. With this gun and caliber, I don't take anything for granted,and like you, I probably check things a lot more than I really need to. In this hobby, there is no such thing as being too careful.
Greg
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I'm new at this too since May. All I've been loading is .40 S&W. I'm no expert,but I don't think you need quite that much bell. I bell it just enough that the bullet will somewhat sit in the mouth. I'm loading Berry 180 FP's at the moment also. From your seating depth you must be at least 1.135 OAL. I know 1.125 will put the mouth just about at the bullet taper. IMO,your crimp is pretty much what you want. Not too much,but just enough to get rid of the bell,and keep the bullet in place. I'll push a few against my bench to see if I can change the OAL. So far so good.
Greg
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Let me know how they shoot
It's going to be a while. I have to build a backstop before I can resume shooting.
Greg
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Like most everyone else,just enough belling and a touch of crimp to ever so slightly push that mouth against the bullet. Can't even tell it was crimped. I'll take a few and try like hell to push that bullet against my bench to see if my OAL changes. You'll get the hang of it.
Greg
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If you aren't doing anything special, your Dillon carbide .40 cal dies will work just fine. They do for me anyway.
Greg
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Thanks for the education. Very informative.
I have the FC, NT and the FEDERAL. I will now have to do a resort and scrap all the FC. Was not aware of the problem.
Thanks for the timely post with the pics that are clear and easy to see your point!
You don't want the NT either,unless you don't mind fooling with a crimped primer pocket.
Greg
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1.125 in a Gen 4 G23 with a stock barrel and no issues. And not near the chamber clearance as the older Glocks.
Greg
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I loaded 100 .40 S&W Winchester nickel with mixed Winchester stamps too. Took awhile but I got 1.125 with a Berry 180 gr plated FP pretty much every round with my 550B.
Greg
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Really. Just start with what the books have for loads.
I just loaded some 180 gr. Berry flat point plated using hodgdon numbers.
4.4 gr Win 231 with a OAL of 1.125 for my G23. Haven't shot them yet though.
Greg
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Thanks again for your insight Steve. I'm new at reloading, and any info from seasoned reloaders is much appreciated. From the beginning,I separated all the different headstamps. Now I know that can be taken a bit further. At least for the Federal anyway.
Greg
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I'll take a stab at answering this: At any given time, I have 3 versions of 40SW Federal brass cases.
1: Lightweight case that has a clearly demarcated circular "low spot" surrounding the primer hole. The case text is stamped in a very narrow Arial-ish font.
2: Same case style, but the font is BOLD like the text on a Blazer case.
3: Exact same font as on case#2, but text says "· FEDERAL · ". I call this the 2 dot federal case. The case lacks the depression around the primer hole, making this a "solid head" case. It's stonger, but holds less.
The weight of the #1 and #2 cases are almost identical on average. The #3's weigh ~4.5 gns more.
To me, #1 is the "old-style" case. I think #2 is the #1 design using the same brass formulation as #3 (harder than #1) and same font as #3 minus the 2 dots. Hence, my distinction of 2 dot and no dot federal brass. FWIW: the federal silver cases are of the #2 type.
Just my own observations, and probably more than you wanted to know...
I was just checking my cases again after the info you supplied. If the "low depression" cases are the weaker of the bunch,are they still OK for minor loads? I have far more of those cases than the "2 dot".
I have other (I'm assuming Federal) cases with just the letters F C,and some with the number 12 after the letters. They look exactly like the "low depression" cases,so I'm guessing they are the weaker ones also.
Greg
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The cases in question are a newer design where the inside bottom near the flash hole is very flat and there is a bead of brazed brass weld attaching the case wall to the case head. Someone said these are being made overseas for Winchester to save cost
Those would be use once and throw away for sure. Saving cost or not,that is not a very wise construction method.
Greg
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Just my own observations, and probably more than you wanted to know...
Not at all. Thank you very much for the explanation. Now I know the different Federal markings!
Greg
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I scrap Amerc and S&B....heard too many bad things about those two brands.
R-P and Winnie seem to be the best brass. I don't load AMERC, S&B, RWS, some Fiocchi USA, or old style Federal 40 cal. Every 40 case I load goes through a Magma sizer.
I have sufficient OCD to sort personal brass by headstamp. I prefer to load R-P brass. ALL Winnie and Remmie 40 cases are solid head.
What is the headstamp on this brass?
Greg
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hornady makes a really nice and simple collet type.
I like mine,,Works very well when setup correctly.
I use this one too. Works very well.
Greg
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The only difference I noticed with the bearing installed was being able to snug the shellplate bolt just a bit tighter. Maybe a little less effort to rotate it,but really not anything spectacular.
IMO,shellplate worked the same with or without it.
Greg
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Finally received my .40 S&W dies on 5/26 that I ordered on 3/9.
Greg
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Placed my order on 3/9. I received small stuff (lube,polish,case gage, primer tray,scale) about three weeks in. Almost 8 weeks to the day, on 5/10 I got my RL550B,but unfortunately the 40 dies weren't with it. What a bummer. Hopefully it won't be too much longer.
Greg
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Hi all,
After a two month wait, my RL550B will be here Friday. I really didn't mind the wait though,as it gave me time to track down those elusive components,and read my manuals. I'm new to reloading,so I'm here to learn from all of you.
Greg
best resize die for brass shot with a glock
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted · Edited by glc
I was curious,so I checked the best I could. I have a Gen 4 G23. I can see why I don't have a problem resizing with nothing more than my Dillon dies. There is just about .008-.009 difference between the case and the barrel. I tried to get the dimemsion of the case where the bulge would have been. Cartridge in the pic is a reload. Calipers are at most 1/4" into chamber. I know it's not perfect,but it does show that there is still quite a bit of size difference even in the newer Glock chambers.
Greg