ny32182
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Posts posted by ny32182
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And even then, I still use Federals. I think Fioccis are known to be hard.
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Any aftermarket firing pin spring will provide LESS resistance, not more. You want either an eric lightened spring, or to trim the stock one. You do not want an untrimmed stock FP spring and 13lb hammer spring.
Also if your kit included the Eric firing pin, all my guns have also needed the extended FP block, and the block fit to the firing pin to keep from dragging.
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I think they are stock.
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Hammer is a pre-Titan Eric hammer, same one in both.
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I have always had one gun where the DA pull does not retract the hammer as far as the others before dropping. I don't understand enough about the mechanics of the DA pull to know why. Would anyone happen to know? Ideally I would like it to match the others.
Here is the short drop:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiitgoZeUK0
And a normal drop from my other guns:
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Why would you want the rear all the way down (bottomed out at the limit of its adjustment)?
That is not a desirable situation. I think the question is, what height is most likely to put the rear in the middle of the adjustment range?
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Seems like there are a lot of options... I wonder if they are all summarized in one place.
I took some pictures last night as I was messing around with one of my guns. These are all the ones I have:
Top to bottom: Stock, Henning of some kind, Eric Xtreme. I didn't put a mic on them, but even visually it is obvious that the stock one is shortest, Eric is in the middle, and Henning is longest. All three appear to be set up to work with the safety plunger, and of course I can confirm that the Eric one does as it is in one of my Production guns.
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So no internal mods? Trigger does seem to be shootable to me out of the box, but I have made some changes for me as a lefty:
22lb Plunger spring (it was the only one I had left from the kit), 14lb hammer spring, CGW trigger return spring, removed firing pin safety plunger, cut down the stock firing pin spring a bit, and did some minor internal polishing on the plunger components and trigger bar. This all reduced the trigger pull slightly but not much.
Also installed Stock 2 size safety, Henning guide rod, Henning firing pin, swapped magazine catch to the right side as always.
I think it is ready for load development.
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Limited for Limited, .40 major... I'm just wondering what all your spring rates are, and if there are any "must have" modifications, etc... Go.
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I got a gunsmith to radius the bottom of an extractor for me... it felt much smoother loading by hand.
No difference in live fire. A heaver recoil spring is the only thing that fixed it for me.
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I had this exact issue, and for me the fix was learning that the Limited Pro needs "longslide" recoil springs.
A.k.a there is a 2lb offset in spring weight between a Stock2 and a Limited Pro: The same spring that is a 10lb in a Stock 2 is an 8lb in a Limited Pro.
I would recommend a 14lb recoil spring (or 12lb "longslide") in the Limited Pro running minor .40. I bet all your problems disappear.
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Both my Limited Pros came with an enormous paddle on the left, and a paddle matching that of the stock 2 on the right.
The left side paddle is way too big for me, so I just change the main safety lever to that of a stock 2, so the entire safety assembly then is a match to the Stock 2.
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All new springs (potentially different rates particularly on the hammer spring) helped, but did not solve the problem. 2 stovepipes in about 530 rounds so far. About half the rate as before.
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What dealers have them in stock?
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In Tanfo or CZ?
Spring installation and detail cleaning complete last night... I'll post some results when I get to shoot the gun again, hopefully tomorrow.
I still haven't had time to compare slide motion sans recoil spring, so that is still on the list too.
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Ok... I'll try that soon. Also I guess I could get a few hundred rounds loaded by my buddy here, he uses basically exactly the same load and would give a different perspective on the ammo.
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I guess I could take the entire barrel and recoil system out of both guns, and really isolate/compare the feel of the slide to frame fit and see if it feels like something is dragging somewhere... does that sound useful? If something is resisting slide movement that wasn't there before, I can't feel it in normal operation.
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"Bend" might not be the right term, but what I've heard is that slide stops in Tanfos start to open up the groups when they wear out (I guess making the lockup a little inconsistent or something), where as CZs just snap. I haven't shot enough through mine yet to say from experience.
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My bell and crimp are extremely minimal... I'm not even sure they touch the shorter cases at all.
I gauge all my ammo in the Stegger/Shockbottle Hundo. If it doesn't drop in cleanly, it goes in a different pile that I use for slowfire stuff like chrono and group shooting.
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I'd vote for Glockinator's repsonse. Once a hammer/sear is fit to one frame, I wouldn't go swapping them to another.
I've had hammer follow as well, and it was a matter of the hammer hooks, and/or sear being incorrectly fit to each other, and the shock of the slide closing would cause the hammer hooks to slip off the sear and it would fall to half cock. A gunsmith was able to fix it without new parts, but that is not guaranteed depending on how the parts were modified at first.
I'd swap it all back, if it works, great, if not you may be looking at some new hammers and/or sears being needed.
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I am in the process of replacing every other spring in the gun right now.
Random idea, but is it possible that the slide stop lever is a contributing factor? I'm told they "bend but don't break" in the Tanfos. This one has never been replaced, and is 10k past the point when they seem to break in Shadows. I'm not a bullseye-accurate shooter, but it still seems to shoot the same kind of groups off hand for me as it always has.
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This is a long shot, but it could be the hammer spring.
My Baby Eagle started acting very similar to what you are seeing. Random stovepipes. Turned out my recoil spring was sacked, so it felt ok when racking it, but it didn't have the foce needed to keep it in battery. I put a new recoil spring in and there was a lot more resistance to keep it in lockup. This could apply to the hammer spring. It could still be generating enough force to pop primers, but is sacked out a little so its not helping to hold the gun in lockup. Which then causes the gun to pop out of lockup very fast and the extractor slips off.
First time I've heard this one.
The recoil spring is new, but, all the rest of the springs aren't.
The hammer (main) spring in the impacted gun actually FEELS stiffer than the relatively brand new one in my other gun, but I guess it couldn't hurt to just re-spring the whole thing with known spring rates.
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I don't feel any kind of hang ups racking it, but I'll do a close inspection of the bottom of the slide on each gun for comparison.
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I shot a 3rd Gen Glock for a while, and while hitting it with my trigger finger was "ok", and I thought not a big deal at the time, once I switched to guns that allowed me to flip it over to the right side and use my thumb, no way in the world I would ever go back. It is much more natural all the way around for me. The best evidence of that is that it took about 10 minutes of dryfire for it to become automatic and I never tried hitting a mag button with my trigger finger again after that.
Stock 2 - Power Factor
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
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Normally I shoot 147s, but have shot some 124s as well.
135PF, 10lb+ recoil spring.
I'm not saying YOUR gun won't run with less, but I've had issues before that were corrected by increasing to the specs above, so I'm convinced that is what the gun likes best.