[Single action trigger pull]

Among my 3 tanfos, the only one with < 2lbs SA pull is the one with 2-wing disco. The 2-wing disco came from the Limited Pro and I put it on one of the Stock 2s. The other two have the 1-wing disco, and their SA is around 2 lbs 10 oz. All of them have titan hammer, factory one-piece sear, CZ sear spring and factory TRS (I found that using the CGW reduced power TRS actually adds 0.5 lbs pull). All 3 had the about the same polishing done. I contribute the lower SA pull to the 2-wing disco. If anyone knows where to buy the 2-wing disco, I'd buy 2 more and put them on my other guns.

Wrong. Stop spreading bad information. The wing has absolutely NOTHING to do with SA break or poundage. As pointed out by KA, SA is primarily sear/hammer hooks, then spring weight.

Hammer spring is a 13lb.

Gun has about 18xx rounds through it.

I can try to polish the hammer hooks if that is a good option, but always heard that is kind of a last resort and can end badly.

Thanks all.

Entirely too much spring. You'll have to run a 10# from PD or clip three coils of an EG light to get sub 2# SA.

To my knowledge it is the same spring in my other guns, and it barely lights primers the way it is, so I don't know how much lighter is realistic on the hammer spring?

Plunger parts have been polished and plunger spring replaced with an 18lb, yes.

[Single action trigger pull]

Hammer spring is a 13lb.

Gun has about 18xx rounds through it.

I can try to polish the hammer hooks if that is a good option, but always heard that is kind of a last resort and can end badly.

Thanks all.

[Single action trigger pull]

CGW reduced power TRS is already in it.

Sear spring is stock

Sear holes and pin are stock

[Henning guiderod]

If you look at them side by side, you will never want to have a stock one again. The Henning just oozes quality compared to the stock one. It adds a little weight too I believe. I have them in all my minor guns too.

[Single action trigger pull]

So I have recently been trying to tune up a stock 2 from scratch by myself for the first time. I'm not a gunsmith.

I've polished what I believe are key points, and resprung to specs similar to what I have in my other guns. I think it came out well with the exception of the single action trigger break, which is noticeably heavier than it is on my other guns. It had a stock two piece sear, so I ended up changing that out for a one piece, and I have a Titan hammer in it (first gun I have with one of those).

The DA is fine, but the SA just breaks heavy and I would like it to break lighter. I have polished the edge of the sear, but not tried to remove any metal or change the shape. I have not touched the hammer hooks on the Titan hammer.

What do you think I should do?

[No GO on Freedom munitions 135 HPs]

Thanks, makes some sense... maybe not a bad idea to keep them out of the major match ammo.

[LPA Cut Fixed Target Rear Sight Limited]

Are you guys actually BREAKING the stock sight? Or is the elevation screw just backing out?

I've never had any issues with the screws walking, or any breakage issues shooting minor, but this is what the rear sight on my limited looked like a third of the way through my practice session last Friday. Round count about 5400. This seems to be the norm. I would welcome a more durable adjustable sight.

[No GO on Freedom munitions 135 HPs]

So.... what is the problem with the stepped brass specifically? I don't filter it out of my range brass and have never had a problem with it shooting 147gr minor.

[Shooting a Different Division to Hone Specific Skills?]

I am shooting a Tanfo Limited (short Limited gun, single action only). Yes I am still using my production gear. So ergonomically it is very similar.

I've got the gear pretty much nailed down at this point; might make a couple minor tweaks but it is very close to where I want it now.

I do have a DAA Racemaster mag carrier on the way, as I'm hoping it will be a bit more stable with a much heavier 20rd mag in it.

[How to reassembly a 2 piece sear]

I have Stock 2's that have come from the factory both ways. I don't know of any way to predict which sear you will get.

I would also just replace it with a one piece.

[Shooting a Different Division to Hone Specific Skills?]

Thanks guys... I'm interested to see how it plays out. I think the first club match met my expectations regarding how I think it will play out and what I will need to improve on to compete at a better level in Limited. I imagine Open is again, totally different. Just not sure about how shooting with a dot would impact your iron sight shooting in the long term.

At least in the US (among non-Eric shooters) you seem to have guys that are at the top in either Open, or whatever iron sight division they are shooting at the time, but not both.

[Shooting a Different Division to Hone Specific Skills?]

I wrote up some thoughts on shooting a different division to press improvement on different skills:

http://www.gmshooting.com/shooting-a-different-division-to-hone-specific-skills-part-1/

[Stock II trigger problems]

I'd take it to Robbie or Zach even if it cost a little money... last thing I'd ever do is send it to EAA.

Agree that it sounds like trigger bar rubbing on the magazine is the only possible cause.

[Mags won't drop free on limited]

Yes.. sounds good

[Mags won't drop free on limited]

We can take a closer looks this weekend... didn't have enough time last week.

The external dimensions of the magazine should be the same, I believe, regardless of what rounds the mag is for, but yes if they are not marked "K9" or "wit 9 LF" or something like that, it is a problem.

[Mags won't drop free on limited]

To follow up on mine:

I got some new magazines that stuck much worse, even with the Henning magwell moved as far back as it would go. All of the contact causing it to stick is occuring between the back rib on the basepad and the magwell. I know this because every one of them readily drops free with the magwell removed. I sharpied the back rib on the new mag extensions so I can see exactly where it is contacting, and I started removing material from the back of the magwell bit by bit with a dremel. It is now 90% better and the only time they stick now is at slidelock, which should of course never actually happen shooting limited. I might stop now, might continue; not sure yet.

I'm a little familiar with Thane' situation, and it is completely different. He is getting the mag over-inserted into the frame somehow, which is causing it to stick bad, for a different reason. I don't know what the cause or resolution of this is... never had it happen to me or anyone else I know that shoots these before. Stock magwell, stock basepads.

[Firing pin block]

I was at a match somewhere where they locked it open and flipped it over to look at the bottom of the slide and make sure it is installed, but still did not check it for function.

Basic function test: with the hammer back in single action, press on the firing pin with a punch. It should not go forward. Hold the hammer back, pin the trigger to the rear, and repeat. FP should go forward.

As mentioned, this interface needs to be correct with your pin and block, and if it isn't, you will have some contact/dragging that will peen a spot on the pin and can cause light strikes. My UNDERSTANDING i that Henning pins are designed to work with the stock FPB, and Extreme pins are supposed to work with the extreme/extended block.

If your hammer falls without pulling the trigger, your half-cock notch on the hammer should save it. The FPB is a little redundant in that respect.

If you are in Limited or Open and remove it (I have removed it from my Limited), I don't see any need to plug the hole. All the dirt in the FP channel is coming from the front, either the pin hole in the breech face or around the extractor. I've gone thousands of rounds without cleaning it, and even then the FPB itself, and the back part of the firing pin are still spotless.

[P07 recoil springs]

I didn't realize they had them unfortunately..

So is there a "weight offset" for the same spring in different length guns?

Ex: the same spring marked for 10lb in a "standard length" model is an 8lb spring in a long slide model? Like some other platforms.

[P07 recoil springs]

I just got a CGW steel/uncaptured guide rod for my P07 carry gun... it just looks cooler than the stock one.

I just discovered that Wolff doesn't seem to carry anything for P07 (or P09 for that matter) and Googling "ISMI P07" turns up nothing interesting...

What kind of recoil springs are used in the P07?

[Mags won't drop free on limited]

I have one magazine that would not drop free due to the exact position of the Henning magwell. I moved it back about half a millimeter on the frame (or less) and problem solved.

[Are there any "Extreme" models that are IDPA SSP legal?]

Limited Pro is if you have a newer frame, loose box, and smaller safety.

Edit.. not sure if they make an "extreme" model limited pro. I read the title as "elite" for some reason.

[Single wing vs. Dual wing interrupter]

True

[Single wing vs. Dual wing interrupter]

I hear that some people think that the dual wing interrupters are better.

Is this a majority opinion, and if so, why?

It seems to me to be kind of random whether a specific gun comes with a dual or single wing... kind of like one piece vs. two piece sears. Never know what to expect in a new gun until you open it up...

[Stock 2 FTF and FTE]

FWIW I've also had issues with relatively short, flat nose bullets doing the same thing. I was only shooting them in practice, and was using pretty well worn mags, so I figured the feed lips might be opened up as well, but since I was only using them in practice and it wasn't happening that much, I didn't worry about fixing it.

I've never had that kind of jam with round nose bullets.

[TG and 124's and 135's]

I only shot these in practice, but:

124gr Berry's plated

3.82gr Titegroup

Velocity 1036

Barely makes minor... would not take to a big match without increasing the charge.

Still a little snappier than 135pf 147's.