quicksilver

I did look at it under a hand lens, it is not pierced. It does appear to be cracking. It just seems like a rather wierd place to see cracking. You would think you would see it more on the mouth or body of the case.

It does seem like most of it is from the S&B brass... at least that I've seen. I'll just pass on these ones. Thanks!

I've noticed that some cases SEEM like there is some kind of cracking (could be a stain maybe?) in the ejection grove. I don't know if people inspect case this closely or not. This may be a "cases aren't perfect, it's ok to reload" thing but thought I'd see what you guys have to say. Let me see if I can get these images on here...

Well, it's good to know it's not too big of a deal. I think it's a good idea to keep the plate full as long as I'm loading that caliber. Has anyone here ever used that tool head clamp? Looks interesting.

So I spent a lot of time getting each die station right where I wanted it by using a single round at a time. Then when I went to actually start reloading when the plate had 5 pieces of brass on it, every die's setting changed. For example seating depth went from 1.130" to 1.122-24" The belling amount decreased, and crimping got lighter. That is a little worrisome if the first few and last few rounds of each session are way out of whack. Is this normal? Am I being too OCD about this? Thanks for any help.

So it could also be that I need to adjust my sizing die as well then? And also increase the crimp a little as well getting it into the .376-.378 range. Is your sizing die just kissing the shell plate on the down stroke? If it is there is nothing else to adjust to increase the sizing amount. Yes it is.

Awesome. Thanks everyone for sharing your knowledge! First time loading is a little scary... As I'm sure many of you remember. Thanks again!

So it could also be that I need to adjust my sizing die as well then? And also increase the crimp a little as well getting it into the .376-.378 range.

Seems like most of them are either S&B cases, but a few FC as well.

I'm getting different stories from different people as far as how much crimp (taper crimp) there should be on a 9mm load. I have a dillon case gauge the local shop told me to only take off the bell right to the point where the case will fit into the gauge then stop. The problem is when it's at that point, the bullet isn't very secure. It doesn't take much force to push the bullet back into the brass. When I measured the mouth when it just hit the point of making it into the case gauge, it measured .382. when I measure some factory ammo it measured more .376-.379. I hear that making that too tight can cause pressure problems, bullet turning, etc. I just want to make sure I'm doing this safely. What is the right amount of "crimp" to put on it? Is it based on measuring the mouth? Is it how much of a dent you put in the round? I am using Berry's plated 115 gr 9mm bullets for this first batch. Thanks for any clarification!

I will do just that. Thanks for your help!

I just recently purchased a 650 and am excited to get started with reloading 9mm and .40 s&w. As I am working on calibrating the powder charge I've noticed that powder keeps coming through in between the powder bar that slides back and forth (see pic). I'm using Titegroup powder, but it's starting to get all over the shell plate and press in general. Any ideas how to fix this? Thanks for any help!