smokemup
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Everything posted by smokemup
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I've been updating this info on the CZ Forum if you'd lke to follow it there. http://www.czfirearm...p?topic=53950.0
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I'm Baaaack.... This time I targeted the interruptor (disconnector) as opposed to the Trigger Bar (Bow). I experimented by adding very thin layers of steel to the inside of the interruptor in an attempt to reduce the overall takeup of the trigger before the interruptor makes full contact with the bow. And it worked very well! This is market worthy, so I'll see what it's going to take to produce a 'disconnector variety pack', so to speak. The first pic is the metal used. Funny, I know, but it worked. It's a number for your mailbox or house. LOL. The next pic shows the results of two of those layers glued together with JB Quick and trimmed down with a flat file. Here's another shot of the strips glued and filed to the interruptor. So now I know you want to see the results compared to yours, right? I made a video, so check it out and please let me know what you think. www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Yz_6KWj66E
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I couldn't get it done. Drilling that hole, that is. I was turned down by a machinist and a gunsmith as being too difficult. And they had some fancy equipment. It's that angle they couldn't deal where they would have to start the hole. Bummer, so what I did to test whether this would have actually worked, I added some JB weld to the inside of the trigger bar, and filed down a bit at a time until satisfied with the resuts. I filed a bit too much, but the results were still pretty good. Got rid of half the takeup. While at it I polished the trigger plunger bore until perfectly smooth. So now it feels great. Absolutely no gritty feel in the takeup, has a short reset and a very clean break (from working the sear and hammer). Now I need to decide if it's worth replacing the JB Weld with a tig weld for a more permanent solution. Boy, a screw back there would have been so perfect for tweaking it. Shame.
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I ordered some set screws online to get the right one (oval tip), so just waiting at the moment.
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Ok, here's where I'm at... I wrapped a piece of lead strip around the notch in the rear of the transfer bar to test spacing. It worked well and a single wrap, perhaps .03125" was good for at least half the trigger takeup. Nice. Wrapping the entire notched area is a problem since it does interfere with the motion of the interruptor a bit, but since I was using soft lead the interruptor shaped the little bit of interference out of the way. After this test, I believe drilling and tapping from the rear of the transfer bar, and running in a set screw from that side won't interefere with anything and it'll have an adjustable trigger takeup. It won't be easy to get to since you'll have to at least remove the sear and possibly the hammer, but it's pretty quick. My issue now is deciding whether I want to drill that area myself or take it to a machine shop. It's got a funky angle to deal with and may be a real problem without a precision drill press. I'll attach a pic of what I'm talking about and marked the spot with a red dot. I'll update this as things progress.
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It's there. First sentence. "DA Stock II" (Tanfoglio Stock II, which is a DA (double action)).
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I've been trying to figure out the best way to modify a DA Stock II to reduce trigger take-up and think I have an answer. Wanted to also check to see if anyone else has tried their hand at it with decent results. Here's my idea: The DA interruptor is losely fit for function where it rides on the rear center of the trigger bar (the inner angle of the interruptor). A set screw on the interruptor for an easy external adjustment won't work because of the trigger bar design. This solution modifes the interruptor. Not a simple task as it needs more surface area (the tappered side that touches the trigger bar). Adding a steel strip along this surface would fill the void and you could 'tune' this by changing to a different thickness strip to suit. When satisfied with the results the strip could be pinned in place (or some other reliable method). This provides no adjustments when you're done, and any change would mean starting over. I also thought about compressing a ring around the rear of the trigger bar to encircle the center portion as an alternative to filling that void. Throw out some ideas if you have any. Tnx! The trigger job I did on this gun came out awesome. Single action has no felt creep before the break, which is about 2 lbs. Now if I could just get rid of some of that takeup I'll be happy...
