Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

prebancolt

Classified
  • Posts

    79
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by prebancolt

  1. Not sure I'm completely understanding what you are describing, but make sure the random cases don't have junk in the grove stopping the cases from being fully inserted.  

     

    I've also noticed that after cleaning and lubing, the case slide somehow gets grease on the face and drags the case back out of the shell plate.  Took me a while to figure out why and how the cases seemed to "jump back out".

  2. I do not know how this can be, but it is.

    Previously, I had been emptying the primer tube and starting with a fresh batch each time. Got tired of cycling the handle and waiting for a primer to appear. So now I stop at an arbitrary point and begin again when ever.

    No what happens is after about 8-10 cycles, somehow a primer gets turned sideways and jams up the 650. I have to disassemble the shell plate and then empty the primer tube assembly and then disassemble the primer feed mechanism and clear the jam. Then reassemble and load primers.

    This has happened five or six times. Doesn't make sense.

    So now I am emptying the tube and starting fresh.

    Can't win for losing.

    I just had this exact issue happen to me and this is how I fixed my problem: Remove the shell plate and primer assembly. Pay close attention to the position of the oval piece of metal that is partially covering the bottom of the disk. I didn't realize it, but when I was changing from large to small pistol primers, I didn't tighten the oval piece exactly centered between the holes in the primer disc. The slight amount that it was off was enough to not let the primers drop the way they wanted/needed. I centered the piece and instantly, all was well.... Hope this helps.

    J

  3. I left the pedal on the STI Eagle unfinished after bead blasting it. The rest part is just bolted on and the back is relieved just a bit to clearance the slide. I decided to try it that way since it was quicker to make with the parts I had in the shop. If I have problems with it not holding up, I'll just make it out of solid stock. So far, though, the rest has been rock solid and I think it's gonna be ok. I'll try to take some more pics if you want, but it might be a little while, I'm working a lot.

    I posted this from my computer so I wouldn't kill any more kittens since my Smartphone decided to start capitalizing every word when posting on this site. I personally didn't mind since I hate cats, but some people get offended easily.

  4. How did you finish up the copies? I was looking at doing that.

    I Finished One Using Black Gunkote.

    It May Seem Like The Gas Pedals Are Mounted Way Back, But You Really Need To Feel A Gun With One On It, Then Shoot It. You Wont Want To Go Back. Imagine Sitting In A Recliner With Your Legs Unsupported In The Air. Now Put A Stool Under Them. That's How I Feel Now After Shooting With The *thumb rest [generic]*. In Addition To Supporting Your Left thumb And Providing Recoil Management, The Pedal Also Makes The Gun Easier To Steer Or Control Left To Right. You Always Think That Your Gun Is Solid Left To Right Until You Try The *thumb rest [generic]* And You Realize You Have Even More Control. I Really Cant Say Enough About It. It's Working Great For Me And Everyone Else I Personally Shoot With Who Has it.

  5. So I loaded two different 9mm loads:

    115gr RN Copper Plated

    3.4gr/3.5gr 700X (50 of each charge, all the rest was the same)

    1.130 OAL

    Out of a Glock 34, there wasn't enough charge to eject. Every round got caught. I'm thinking the load was too light, but now I have to pull about 90 bullets (I live in a city, so I make a bunch then go pay to shoot them at a range).

    My question: is there something I can do to develop more force without having to tear down each round? IE: if I shorten OAL to, say 1.110, will it develop enough pressure to eject properly?

    I Would Hate To, But I Think I Would Tear Down The Loads. I'm Guessing Around 3.7-3.8 Gr Will Be Minimum ToWhere You Want To Be.

  6. So I came across this thread while searching 700X (IMR 700X). I have been loading Titegroup in .40 and 9mm recently for plinking purposes. I've only been shooting/reloading for about two months now, and I've been grabbing what powder I can find. I currently have:

    Titegroup

    Unique

    IMR 700X

    I know 700X was designed as a shotgun powder, but does anyone have any good experiences with it as a 9mm or .40 powder?

    Almost Forgot, I Also Love 700X For 9Mm Subsonic Rounds 124Gr And 147Gr. 700X Is Fast Burning, So It Makes For Pretty Quiet Loads.

  7. So I came across this thread while searching 700X (IMR 700X). I have been loading Titegroup in .40 and 9mm recently for plinking purposes. I've only been shooting/reloading for about two months now, and I've been grabbing what powder I can find. I currently have:

    Titegroup

    Unique

    IMR 700X

    I know 700X was designed as a shotgun powder, but does anyone have any good experiences with it as a 9mm or .40 powder?

    I Shoot USPSA limited Major In 40. I Also Have About 12Lbs Of 700X, So I've Been Running 3.9Gr Under A 200Gr Coated Lead Bullet. It'sVery Accurate And Very Low Recoiling. The Smoke Is A Little More Than With Other Powders And Its A Little Dirtier, But Right Now, Im Pretty Happy With The Performance And Cost. Try It, You Just Might Like it.

  8. Replace the cotter pin with a paper clip and bend it at the ends to keep it in place. Tweak as necessary so the catcher open easily on the downstroke. Even when the little catcher is set up properly I still get a few that miss the cup, flip out on the floor, or end up on the frame of the press somehow.

    Bingo! This Solution Is A Winner And The One I Went To After Rebending My Cotter Pin Too Many Times To Count. Of Course Any Pin Can Be used.

  9. I like to tumble my pistol rounds after reloading to get the case lube off and smooth up any burrs around the case mouth.

    I have read that this is a bad idea for rifle rounds with stick powder because it breaks the powder down into smaller pieces which then burns faster and creates a much higher pressure which can blow up the rifle.

    Just a note of caution for anyone using stick powder.

    I Heard The Same Thing And On The Surface, It Would Seem To Have Some Merit. BUT, And I Can't Remember Where, Someone On Another Site Decided To See If This Was True, So He Tumbled Some Rifle Rounds Loaded With Stick Powder For A Rediculously Long Time To Simulate Breaking Up The Powder. He Then Shot Tumbled Vs. Nontumbled Loads Over A Chrony And Couldn't Tell A Difference In Velocity Or Pressure Signs. YMMV.

    J

×
×
  • Create New...