shuter
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Posts posted by shuter
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38 minutes ago, Boomstick303 said:
It all comes back to the swaging station on the 1050/1100 versus the 650/750. If you intend to process/load a lot of .223 buy the 1100. You will be glad you made the investment. If you do not intend to process a lot of 223 brass then the 750 is probably the better route to go. I will say I have ran into swaging issues with 9mm when using mixed brass, so if your brass prep is not on point or wish to only wet tumble/dry tumble 9mm brass and then load in one pass versus loading in 2 passes (for better brass and sort out issues with the brass during processing versus loading) the 1100 makes life a little easier in my book.
Its not that you cannot process .223 on the 750, its just a bit more involved from my understanding.
The caliber conversions are expensive with the 1100, but once you made the investment, the press is amazing. Processing 223 brass on my 1050 with the case trimer is a dream.
Just a couple of things to keep in mind.
Good info...I have the Dillon RT1500 trimmer set up on one of my 550 toolheads now, and use the 600 Super Swage on and Inline Fab adapter as well. Sounds like the 1100 can be set up to size, trim, swage and load complete rounds without having to change anything out or do anything separately?
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46 minutes ago, travail said:
That I am aware of, nothing. I have a 750 and while I still have rookie numbers for my round count on this press, no issues with either 9mm (10,000ish) or 223 (4,500). Definitely need the case feeder to run well, but not sure why the knock on 223 as mine runs this great.
Thanks. Yes, I would definitely want the casefeeder for the 750; should've mentioned that.
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On 10/1/2020 at 8:14 AM, belus said:
I'm one of the early advocates of the 1100/550 combo in this thread. All the presses you've mentioned use the same dies and powder system, but not much else interchanges. There's generally about $2-300 worth of other expenses beyond the press that you need to get started, but it's not press specific. Things like a brass tumbler or vibratory cleaner, calipers, first primer sleeve and pound of powder, etc. Your barrel can be your case gauge at first.
IMO, it's not worth getting a bullet or case feeder for the 550. The press works very well with two hands once you get into a rhythm. In contrast, the 750 really needs the case feeder or it's severely handicapped. In my experience, the 5-station press is about 35% faster than the 550. And the 550 is 700% faster than a single stage.
The 550 doesn't need all the accessories shown on Dillon's website, especially if you're starting on a virgin bench and can adjust the bench height to be comfortable. I do use mine with a strong mount and roller handle though.
I'd say load on a 550 for a season or half. If it's holding you back you can sell it for 80-90% of it's new price when you upgrade. Though you'll probably find that an upgrade is unnecessary.If you have spare tool heads, the 550 caliber conversion is one bolt and two push pins. It takes about 90 seconds. On the 750, it's about double the time because you also switch out casefeeder parts. Add another two minutes if you have to change primer sizes for either.
On a 1100, most people load a couple thousand rounds between caliber conversions and use the switch as an opportunity to detail clean the press.The 550 shines for someone who loads <500 rds per session and who loads multiple calibers. The 750's sweet spot is only one or two calibers (neither being 223) and between ~500 and maybe 1200 rds per session. The 1100 is what I'd recommend for someone who wants to load 223, load more than 1200 rds in a sitting, or wants to automate a press.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but the comment, "The 750's sweet spot is only one or two calibers (neither being 223)" obviously has me wondering what's wrong with running .223 on a 750? I have an old 550B and was considering the 750 for a .223/9mm combo press. Any comments much appreciated!
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Thanks. I'm a big Dawson fan, so I think I'll get some from them. Appreciate your advice.
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Are 2 spare mags enough, generally? 52 total rounds? Or do I need to count on having to put a 3rd pistol pouch on my belt?
Thanks
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You don't need adapters for the ELS brackets to fit on Tek-Lok equiped pouches, etc. They just bolt on, hole spacing is the same.
Is there an "adapter plate" sold by someone to put ELS/QLS receivers on Tek-Lok units? My holster, pistol mag pouches, and rifle mag pouches all have tek-loks. Would I be better off just getting "adapters" (if available) and putting them on my ELS belt setup that way?You can use the ELS system with any belt by using tech-locs to secure the receiver to the belt and put the forks on whatever you're trying to attach.
Thanks
Thanks. I guess I'm confused. The above reply said to use tek loks "to secure the receiver to the belt and put the forks on whatever you're trying to attach." That made me think I would clamp my Tek Loks over the ELS belt, then put ELS brackets on the Tek Lok receivers, which would allow me to snap on/off using ELS but be able to move around on the belt by unsnapping the Tek Lok receivers and sliding, etc. Is this right?
Sorry, but I probably used way too many words there!
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You can use the ELS system with any belt by using tech-locs to secure the receiver to the belt and put the forks on whatever you're trying to attach.
Is there an "adapter plate" sold by someone to put ELS/QLS receivers on Tek-Lok units? My holster, pistol mag pouches, and rifle mag pouches all have tek-loks. Would I be better off just getting "adapters" (if available) and putting them on my ELS belt setup that way?
Thanks
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Also, are there any downsides to having a mag extend out past muzzle? I have the 22" JM Pro, so a 10 rd RCI tube will extend a good couple inches past.
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Install the 10 rd tube and if you attend a match with a limit, you can "plug" your tube to meet rules.
So, this would apply in any match that limits you to 8+1? I can just plug my 10 rd tube?
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Shooting in Oregon.
Can I install an RCI 10 round tube but only load 8 and be okay?
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Guys,
Can I run a 10-rd tube (RCI) on my 930 JM or is there an 8+1 max allowed for shotgun in Tactical?
Thanks
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Thanks. Is it a bad idea to leave off the clamp altogether?
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Is it common for the mag tube to have to be forced into alignment with barrel when reinstalling barrel/tube clamp?
Seems like mine is under quite a bit of pressure when clamp is installed. Haven't checked poi yet clamped vs. unclamped.
Thoughts? Is the clamp necessary? does it cause issues to have the barrel/mag tube essentially pulling away from each other?
Thanks!
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Just got the chance to shoot my 930 JM Pro for the first time after having the lifter welded. It worked perfectly before (stock lifter), but now, occasionally, will have a fail to feed. the shell hangs up on the lip of the chamber/barrel. A tug back on the charging handle, or pushing on the shell takes care of it, driving the shell into the chamber every time.
Can the "longer" lifter be pushing the shell a tad too high? This happened with all three of the same ammo types that worked 100% prior to welding. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
shuter
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Looks like fantastic work. Great attention to detail. Will have to check them out more closely.
Thanks for sharing.
I have never been big on getting too far from stock on my glock pistol. However, I just had some frame recontouring and stippling done on my G34 by MOD1 in Lexington, Ky.. Go t it back today and it is some sweet work.
Check out their FB page at : https://www.facebook.com/mod1firearms
I have seen some of the other pistols they have done slide and frame work, and they are quality jobs.
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Good point. I assume the inner belt should "buckle" in the front and the outer in the back? Or should both buckle in the back?
Also, remember to set it up so the ends (buckle area) meet up in the back so you can set up your equipment in front and on the sides.
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Makes perfect sense...thanks!
The inner belt goes thru the belt loops the outer belt goes on the outside the hole on the end is just there to make it easier to pull the inner belt out of the belt loops. That would be my guess
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Just got my ELS belt and the inner/liner belt. Never having used a "two belt" setup like this before, I'm just curious as to how it works.
Do I just thread the inner velcro belt through my belt loops then stick the outer ELS belt onto it?
Also, there's a hole in one end of the inner belt. what's that for?
There are lots of videos on Safariland's website about how to set up the ELS plates, etc., but nothing about the inner/outer belt arrangement. Probably because everyone but me gets it...
Hate to sound stupid, but it ain't the first time!
Thanks
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That's a great point. I can see where there might be times that traditional weak hand would come in handy. At this point, I think my primary will be twins loading, but I'll also practice weak hand.
I think you need to be proficient at more than one technique. I prefer the "twins" and weak hand load. Im in the 5 sec range for 8 shells with the "twins" system off my otto vest. Weak hand is about 1.5 sec slower but im still working on it.
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Thanks. Jeff at C-Rums has already worked his magic on my lifter. HUGE difference, as you pointed out. I think that weak-hand loading 2 at a time is the way I'll end up going, using Carbon Arms' SSLP6 Pinwheel setup, most likely (trying to decide between the P4 and P6, but leaning toward the 6). You're right though...TONS of practice.
I just switched from open to TO and am also trying to load a JM 930 fast. I just got done welding and extending the lifter and it makes all the difference in the world. C rums will do it for 55 bucks. Weak hand is the way to go (must be why 90% of the pros do it). I have just never seen a more consistent way to load. Practice practice and more practice. It's a long way from my coupled 12Rd saiga mags. Good luck and whatever way you choose practice and more practice. Cheers
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So you're saying to Dremel that 90 degree edge to more of a "slope"?
the forearm hump on the edge kills any of my fast load two attempts, the bladed side if my hand jams into it and takes the tension off the first shell which makes it do weird things like nose down. I try to keep the back of it down with extended fingers but my hand always catches that bump
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Well, first of all, "fast" is a VERY relative term. Just got a couple boxes of Fiocchi dummy shells and gave her a whirl for the first time. Haven't purchased any loading "system" yet, so I just wanted to play with the 3 methods that I'm considering (after significant research on this site). I tried the load 2, quad load and loading 4 (one at a time) from a caddie...all weak-handed.
I simply took the gun off my shoulder, flipped it upside down and rested the butt in my armpit while I quickly reached down and grabbed 2 (or 4) shells. I'm trying to determine which method suits me best before spending a bunch of money on caddies, pinwheels, etc. Here are my initial thoughts:
I really like the "quad load", assuming I can alleviate the problem of the second two keeping me from inserting the first two. I think I'm not separating the two stacks as maybe I should be?
The "load 2" seems very fast and simple. I like it a lot and might prefer it, but don't want to give up on the "quad" just yet.
Trying what I gather is the more "traditional" method of loading 4, one at a time, from a caddie in which they're stacked, it seemed awkward and slower, even though it seems like it would be easier to do on the move?
Anyway, just wanted to post my first experience at this very important aspect of 3-Gun. Would welcome any thoughts you guys might have.
One thing I'll say is those dudes doing 3.5 second loads with 8 shells are my new heroes!
see ya
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Thanks very much, guys. Very helpful stuff. Mine ran 100% out of the box, but I only fired 60 shells. Will be doing lots of practice now that I have my welded up lifter back, though! This info will help going forward.
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Roger that, will do. Thanks.
Highsider, can you link to the particular "how to clean and lube a 930" post that you referred to? Would appreciate it. Got my lifter back from C-Rums and can't wait to get back to the range with it! Also have a set of extended tubes coming. Will update when I've shot some more. Thanks for all the input, guys!After reading up on this forum about how to properly clean and lube a 930, (thanks Billy)' I went back and wiped down the moving parts to eliminate the excess oil on the bolt, piston and gas rings. I'm used to lots of oil being a good thing, my baretta 92f likes to run wet.
Biggest thing that needs cleaned is the rings on the piston......take them off the piston and clean them spotless to the point when put back on the piston they rattle.
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XL750 or RL1100?
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Great info; thank you!