Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

G19

Classifieds
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    202

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by G19

    Blade-Tech holster + Tek-Lok question

    in Gear & Accessories

    Posted · Edited by G19

    1 hour ago, Monkeynutz said:

    I my self use the Revolution holster works great. I also paired it with a BOSS  hanger and it made it even greater.

    Definitely an option. Price wouldn't be much more than the Bladetech Classic DOH, and I'm guessing it is a more rigid setup.

     

    I take it the Revolution mounting holes line up with the "Y" piece of the BOSS hanger? 

     

    Do all the Bladetech OWB holsters use the same mounting hole pattern?

    G-Code OSH - Tek-Lok compatibility?

    in Gear & Accessories

    Posted · Edited by G19

    I have a G-Code OSH holster, and I was wondering if this would be compatible with Tek-Lok. The center-to-center distance between the top and bottom hole is 1.5" (maybe just a hair shy); center-to-center distance between the left and right top holes is 0.75" (maybe just a hair shy).

     

    https://i.imgur.com/2IcUA0z.jpg

     

    Can someone please take a look and see what the hole spacing is on their Tek-Lok? 

     

    If it does mate up, that might be a way of getting a nice rigid attachment using my existing holster (which came with a paddle). But I suppose there's no way to work in a drop - looks like the hole spacing on the Bladetech drop and offset piece is very different.

    Blade-Tech holster + Tek-Lok question

    in Gear & Accessories

    Posted · Edited by G19

    1 hour ago, Craig N said:

    This total personal opinion but I think the Blacktech DOH has a smoother draw. I have one for my M&P Pro 5". 

    BladeTech no longer lists this particular holster on their website, so I guess these are being phased out. I'm guessing the one on Amazon is for the 4-1/4" barrel, and the muzzle end would need to be opened up for a 5" barrel.

     

    Seems like their current models are the Revolution and the ICE. And both can be set up with the drop/offset piece.

     

    Do you know if the Pro 5" and 9L (also 5") use the same holsters? Or does the Pro have slightly different shaping in areas that affect holster fit?

    Blade-Tech holster + Tek-Lok question

    in Gear & Accessories

    Posted

    I was looking around for a holster for my M&P9L that would work on a competition belt and I saw this on Amzn: Blade-Tech DOH Dropped and Offset Belt Holster S&W M&P Tek-Lok Kydex Black.

     

    But wouldn't it be cheaper to get both the REVOLUTION S&W M&P holster and the D/OS TEK-LOK setup? Seems like this combo gets you everything the first package has, plus it gives you two additional attachment mechanisms - the paddle and the ASR belt slide - and does so at a lower price.

     

    Am I missing something? Is the holster in the first package somehow better than the Revolution holster?

     

    I'm fairly clueless about this type of gear so any info would be welcome!

    Anyone ship a progressive press with casefeeder?

    in Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum

    Posted · Edited by G19

    1 hour ago, Sarge said:

    No, but I mailed golf clubs once, bag and all. Cost $70 at the time.

     I would just tell the buyer $100. If somehow it turns out way cheaper you can give them a credit but I'll bet it's not off by much

    Thanks Sarge. I had estimated $75 when someone PM'ed me about shipping to Florida, thinking it would require 2 relatively large boxes.

    Anyone ship a progressive press with casefeeder?

    in Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum

    Posted

    I'm selling a XL650 and someone inquired about shipping. Anyone have experience with this? How much did it cost?

    I'm guessing it would be cheaper to ship in at least 2 boxes (one for the casefeeder, and another for the press itself), not to mention easier to find appropriately sized boxes as well as packing everything securely.

    Also, it seems with some disassembly (e.g., separating strong mount, bullet tray, the arm, powder drop, etc.) you could get a lot of parts that would fit in a large flat rate box (or regional rate B box for those familiar with it), which would significantly reduce the weight of the box containing the press.

    Anyone have experience shipping a casefeeding progressive press?

    Anyone loading for their Glock 42?

    in General Reloading

    Posted

    This is the one round I do not reload for, how many rounds are you guys going through?

    If I had a LCP or Bodyguard or similar, I wouldn't bother reloading .380 because I would only shoot enough to keep familiar with the gun and how it shoots. But a G42 is fun to shoot.

    I've since migrated .380 reloading to my 650... and all I needed was a plastic case feeder part :)

    Same here - just needed that ridiculously overpriced casefeed adapter for .380, in addition to the dies.

    Anyone loading for their Glock 42?

    in General Reloading

    Posted · Edited by G19

    I tried to load .380 with SR7625, but that doesn't burn fast enough and thus requires too much powder to cycle. Switched to Titegroup and was able to use less powder.

    Bullet: 100gr 0.355" (Berry's I think)

    OAL: 0.965"

    Powder: Titegroup, 2.9gr cycles barely, went to 3.0gr for more reliable cycling

    Primer: WSP

    @Force, not sure what you're crimping to, but SAAMI specs for .380acp is 0.373" at case mouth. Taper crimp should be very slight - 0.001 - 0.002", so for .380, should be 0.371-0.372" at case mouth.

    Cases getting underneath casefeed plate and inside housing

    in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment

    Posted · Edited by G19

    Loaded some .380acp the other day and after I finished, I noticed it sounded like some cases were left in the hopper, likely under the plate since I had run the casefeeder until no more cases dropped. Today, I checked under the plate - no cases there, so I removed the casefeeder, shook it around a little, and here are the cases:

    2015-08-09%2020.37.41.jpg

    I guess the microswitch malfunctioned and cases fed too high?

    Edit: There were 12 cases in there and they were all 9mm! The last few times I've loaded have all been .380, so these got in there a while back. i guess I only noticed now because after the recent loading session, I moved the press and that's when I heard cases rolling around and figured they were under the plate.

    Breaking failsafe rod shoulder washer

    in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    I had mine installed to where the bigger part was below the arm and the skinnier was going through the hole in the arm. Kinda like a bushing. I notice it when it gets out as it takes more force on the up stroke(shell plate lowering). Usually thats about the time when it breaks. I just left it alone with the fat part under the arm and keep and eye on it to make sure the rod stays in the arm.

    That has me thinking. It'd be easy to epoxy the washer back together.

    Added the "NOT" in my original post.... BTW, the Failsafe Shoulder Washer is a standard part in the XL650 spare parts kit. Good to have a kit handy minimizing downtime.

    I've got a spare parts kit and a spare shoulder washer. Just getting tired of breaking these things.

    Breaking failsafe rod shoulder washer

    in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment

    Posted · Edited by G19

    Most likely over torquing the wing nut.

    Set it with a case in station #2 that has a spent primer in it. Push the handle forward and hold. Tighten the wing nut to compress the spring but completely, leave a little room. I use a credit card and place it between the 2 coils, tighten so they barely hold the card.

    I think I had it even looser than that, but will try this method next time, thanks.

    mine pops out from time to time and if I don't notice it it'll break. Its actually broke right now and its running fine.

    Pops out in that the washer drops below the bracket? When this happens, do you notice greater resistance in subsequent strokes (I noticed that just before the washer snapped), which I assume is the washer being squeezed at an angle against the bottom of the bracket?

    Decapping tearing apart old primers

    in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment

    Posted · Edited by G19

    It is called ringer. There are 2-3 threads on here about them. If you want to search for them you can search my screen name as I posted on them.

    Thanks, you nailed it. :cheers:

    sounds like the brass got wet and sat for an extended period. waaay back I tried washing brass before loading, ended up forgetting a buck for about 2 months, went to use it and ran into this exact problem. Tossed out 5 gallons of brass as a result

    Ouch!

    It was a batch of outdoor range brass, getting/staying wet was probably what happened. Fortunately, it was only a very small % of the cases.

    Assuming you wash/tumble after decap and size, you could try a dab of penetrating oil around the primer on a handful of cases then leave them sit for a day or two. Not a solution for large volume operation but might be tolerable for a couple thousand.

    It was only ~1% of the cases, and I have more cases from the same batch, so now that I know what's going on, easiest thing is just to toss those cases when they pop up at station 2 (XL650).

    Decapping tearing apart old primers

    in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    Loaded up some .380ACP on the XL650 using Lee dies. I had several cases where the decapping pin separated the back of the old primer from its body, leaving the walls of the old primer stuck in the case. The brass was purchased in bulk from a guy on another forum who sells pickup range brass.

    Anyone run into this? Maybe there was some corrosion that caused the primer walls to bind to the case? What would cause that?

    Completed round counter?

    in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment

    Posted · Edited by G19

    You need to angle the IR beam.attachicon.gifIR.jpg

    I received the photo interrupter and have everything wired up, but finding that it doesn't take much ambient light for the sensor to detect it (which also makes it impossible for a round to 'interrupt' the light detected by the sensor). From your pic, it looks like your sensor isn't shielded from ambient light. Does your reloading setup end up casting a shadow over the sensor? Or maybe you are using fluorescent lighting (no IR, or much less IR than incandescent light)?

    Edit: I wrapped a good portion of both the sensor and emitter with electrical tape to limit the directions the triggering light can come from.

    2015-07-26%2018.18.01.jpg

    It's low enough that rounds cannot scoot under, but even with the blue tape across the top of the chute, I'm having some rounds bouncing over. This is with .380 acp, so it might be less of an issue with larger rounds. I'll have to create a gate/dampener that progressively (as the round makes its way down the chute) lowers the ceiling on how high the round can bounce.

    Cases getting under the casefeed plate

    in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    Loaded up some .380acp and had a couple of cases get under the small pistol casefeed plate (they then roll to the bottom of the slanted casefeed hopper). I've experienced this with 9mm before, but that seemed to happen when there was a jam at the mouth of the tube, which may have wedged the plate up a little bit, allowing room for the cases to slip under the plate.

    With .380, no jams and still have cases getting under the plate. Anyone else experiencing this? I do have the large washer installed underneath the plate as per the Dillon manual.

×
×
  • Create New...