atvman400
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Posts posted by atvman400
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I ran it for a while I found it to be to thick for me it almost felt like it slowed my slide down and seemed like it attracted ever peice of dirt and dust the gun cam in contract with ... In my experience I wasn't impressed
Same here. I actually had issues with the pistol not cycling. Went back to FP-10 and haven't had a problem since. There's better lubes out there in my opinion.
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What he said. A big plus 1 for Kidd and ammo choice. FWIW, this is coming from a lefty, ha!The 10/22 can be laser beam accurate. Most bone stock 10/22's can hit a silver dollar at 100 yards. Mine will hit nickels. A pro build from someone like Kidd Custom will easily hit dimes. It used to be true that for the very best accuracy you needed a bolt gun, but those days are over.
The most important things are to make sure the barrel retainer screws are properly torqued, get a good trigger (or smooth out and lighten the factory trigger yourself) and then try at least a half dozen different types of ammo to see which one that particular gun likes best. Ammo selection is a HUGE factor in 22's.
Here are the usual suspects for best 10/22 accuracy:
CCI Standard
CCI Green Tag
Anything by Ely, especially Target, Match and Tenex
Agulia Match Pistol (it's actually better in rifles than their Match Rifle ammo)
RWS R50
Anything by Lapua
I keep about two dozen types of 22 ammo on hand. I sometimes buy "can't shoot straight" guns for a song, figure out what ammo it likes and re-sell a "darn nice shooter" for a healthy profit. To save you a bunch of time (and without getting into the super expensive ammo) I have the best luck with CCI Standard and Ely Target. Those two aren't always the very best for a particular gun but they always do well. Try the CCI first, it's easier to find and cheaper.
There are endless modifications and upgrades available. "Must-have" if you plan on shooting a lot are the modified bolt release, extended magazine release and BX-25 magazines. Once the 10/22 bug bites, a match bull barrel and stock upgrade are next. Then it starts getting crazy.
http://www.rimfirecentral.comis your new friend.
Having said that, listen to MarkCO. Don't buy anything unless you have the credit card in one hand and rule book in the other.
The rule book is key. If she's looking at getting into ISU or NRA 3 position, only type I know of at collegiate level make sure you read the rules. I believe the rules state you have to load every round individually. That would be a pain with a 10/22. Have you looked for a local club that does the type of shooting she is looking at getting into? All of my local clubs that shoot 3 or 4 position have rifles that juniors can use. They might not be 3 or 4 thousand dollar Anschutz's but they will work to see if it's something she likes and wants to continue doing.
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I really like the WARNE mounts. They come with steel inserts that the screws go into so they won't strip out like a lot of the other mounts that just tap the aluminum(JP, Votrex, Burris). If the WARNE SKEL will get you far enough forward, that is what I would recommend.
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Can you cite any reliable source for that? Can you show where Hodgdon buys powder from ADI? And not some chat room forum crap. I was unable to find any information online regarding this fire having any disruption. Here is an April 2014 PDF discussing the reasons why Hodgdon powders cannot be found:
https://www.hodgdon.com/PDF/Web%20Page%20Buying%20Surge.pdf
So I am not sure what some fire in Australia has to do with the current powder shortage NATIONWIDE. It is excess demand, pure and simple.
If you really do your research you will find that there are not alot of powder manufactures worldwide, so any issues(fire) at any plant is going to have an effect on the supply. Read some of the forums and you will find that Australia, Canada, and Europe all have shortages.
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I would stay away from Hornady because there customer service lately has been horrible! They don't even want to help you. They just tell you they can't do anything about it and there managers aren't much better. I would stick with Dillion because I have never had anything but good luck with them.
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They always just leave a failed delivery note and I have to go to the Post office to pick it up. I caught the carrier one day leaving the note at the door and he had to admit he didn't even have the box on the truck. Complaining to our weak-ass Postmaster does no good.
Same here. They make me go to the back and pick it up myself. Usually get a good comment out of them like "really got your moneys worth out of that one" or something along the same lines.
UPS delivers the extremes right to the door though.
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It's turning around though. My local reloading store has been getting in shotgun/pistol powder pretty regular, but it goes pretty quick since it's a HUGE shotgun supply store.. Rifle powder isn't an issue. They had 3 or 4 pounds of titegroup on the shelf this last weekend for under $17 a pound and I let it sit, got enough for a couple years.
I don't think they'll have the big card boards drums of powder, like they used to before Obama, for a long time. Not sure what they were 50-100 lbs?
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My favorite load for my STI recently has been 125 Blue Bullet over 4.0 gr of WST at 1.065. I found a huge accuracy gain going from 1.04 to 1.065 without much of a change in velocity. I would start at 4.0 gr and several OAL's and see which one your gun likes. Need a little more velocity to make minor, bump up the change by .1 gr till you get there. Your going to need a chronograph to play the USPSA game.
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I just received 3,600 of the 9's and inside of the shipping box it was packed 1,200 to a box and within each of the boxes was a well sealed bag. The 3 boxes were also taped to a top & bottom piece of cardboard as well as to each other and a Styrofoam block which was a spacer.
I do agree that the 250 sample packs (received before) leave a lot to be desired in terms of packing.
You couldn't of wrote it any better. Exactly the same experience.
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Anyone use the Hornady one yet? The website says it's positioned at the optimum angle for feeding primers. Interesting to see how this works compared to the vibra prime.
http://www.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-Load-1911-Auto-Primer-Filler-Tube
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What about using some of the light .380 bullets when you load your 9?
I tried using some 90 grain JHPs for an open minor load. At 125 PF recoil was brutal. I'll second some 147 GR bullets and some N320 or Titegroup.
Why do people keep bringing up minor? The OP said nothing about having her shoot a match just going to the range to shoot for his b-day. This means he can run as slow of a velocity as he can as long as it cycles the slide. Single shot just isn't going to be much fun.
I agree with using .380 bullets if you really want her to shoot 9 otherwise a 22 with a red dot. That's almost day one of physic's class. Lightest object going the slowest will give you the least recoil with all other conditions the same.
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Have you ever shot 125s with wst? I'm looking for a decent 9mm minor load, and I have a lot of wst.
I'm shooting 4.0gr of WST behind a 125 Blue bullet at 1.165 OAL to get around 130 PF out of a 5" STI since I'm almost out of clays
Super soft, like clays, but not as clean. I personally think 231, which alot of people seem to like, is ALOT more harsh recoil wise. I've got some 124 MG CMJ's loaded and ready to be chorno'd next time I get to the range. -
I have a box of 1000 WSP that I picked up during the panic when you could only buy 1000 at a time and have had probably around a 5% failure rate of the primers not going off. In the past usually they go off on the second try, guessing high primers, but this box it doesn't matter what pistol they won't go. Haven't go around to calling Winchester/olin to see what's up.
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My minor load is 3.5 gr with a 125 blue bullet loaded at 1.145 OAL. Puts me at 130 PF out of a 5" Edge.
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I love there stuff. Started using FP-10 after a recommendation from a big name in air rifle. Now I've been using it for years on everything.
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Yup, this weekend. Let the bolt slam shut for lack of a better word. Issue was the bolt wasn't closed all the way so it wasn't trigger the shell when I hit the button. As soon as I switch my technique, it worked fine. Noticed it when experimenting with it when my shotgun was on the setup table. Was trying to decide if I wanted to continue loading 8 and then putting one in the chamber when I was prepping my stage, or out 9 in the tube and just rack it at the prep. It was being inconsistent whether it would release a shell or not. Had one of the more experienced guys show me what I was doing wrong (my first match). Ran two stages starting with 9 in the tube and using the shell release with zero issues.
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My issue isn't with the bolting being closed as I've had this issue since the lifter cam back from C-rums. I'm wondering if the lifter widened or something when they welded it not allowing the shell release to fully move to the side. Not sure though. I can't figure it out. I think it's going back to Beretta and the Benelli's going to see some use again.
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Anyone have the issue of a shell not releasing on to the carrier when you push the button with a full mag tube? I only have a 10 round tube and the spring isn't to long since there's not alot of pressure on the follower when it's empty. It runs fine when shooting but it's easiest to load 9 into the tube at the preload table and just release one onto the carrier and cycle the bolt when it's your turn instead of holding the bolt back and putting one into the chamber. Only thing that has been done to it is a c-rums welded lifter and I smoothed out and opened up the loading port.
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I love shooters connection. Seems like they read my mind because I get a "your order has shipped" email almost instantly after I order. Chuck has definitely earned my business.
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There's alot of discussion about carriers here http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=51
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I had one that was very close from the shock on my snowmobile. I held the tube in place with a strap wrench and cranked on the locknut. I gave up when it came loose the second time and drilled and taped into the barrel nut. No problem now.
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I just installed one of these this fall to replace a shorter hand guard and found that I had to drill and tap some holes for set screws because I couldn't get the hand guard to keep from rotating with just the jam nut. Anyone else have this problem?
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I did manage to get my thumb pretty good! So my question is who can weld my lifter? and how long should I plan on the gun being down?
I sent my lifter to Jeff at c-rums 2 weeks ago and got a shipping notification earlier in the week. Should be there when I get home! Not sure if that is typical for him but give him a call or email him. http://www.c-rums.com/
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Warne gets my vote, but I have not used Larue, since I've never needed the QD. The warne mounts use steel inserts for the threads instead of just threading the aluminum. I personally don't think the JP is worth the extra money over any of the chinese; Vortex, PEPR, or Nikon.
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+1 for Nordic
I would recommend going with a bigger tube then +3 or 4 or if want to try 3 gun eventually, since they are all the same price from Nordic. I believe a stock mag only holds 3+1 so you are going to want to go with at least +5 so you can get minimum of 8+1. I don't think a +5 should stick out past the end of the barrel much so it should still work for HD. With it being primarily a HD gun leave any tuning to the pros like Benny Hill. When you don't know exactly what you are doing and start messing with the action or shell release the Benelli reliability isn't always there still.
Don't ask how I know this!
Super soft, like clays, but not as clean. I personally think 231, which alot of people seem to like, is ALOT more harsh recoil wise. I've got some 124 MG CMJ's loaded and ready to be chorno'd next time I get to the range. 
Don't ask how I know this!
very rookie caliber and general questions
in Precision Rifle
Posted
If you are thinking about ever shooting matches, check out the rules real quick. To shoot F-class Target Rifle(F-TR) you will need .223 or .308. A 6.5 creedmoor automatically puts you in open class, which can be an equipment race. Sure you can say you're there just to have fun and don't need to be competitive but I'm sure as you know how addicting 3-gun is you will also get addicted and want to be competitive. If you are going to get into reloading and buy dies and components, now is the time to do the research and get something that will last you for the foreseeable future instead of buying everything twice right away.
I went 308 for a lot of the reasons above for my paper puncher. Easy to find factory match ammo that's reasonably priced, low recoil, great barrel life, easy to find reloading components, and lets me shoot F-TR at the local ranges. If there were PRS style matches around me I would of really considered 6.5 creedmoor harder due to the better ballistics.