[RT1200: do you have to chamfer/debur?]

HAHA! I don't load any blasting ammo in 308. It's all for precision shooting or hunting so I take the extra care to ensure it's all concentric and consistent.

Mine isn't quite what I'd call 'blasting' ammo either.

Last batch I made and tested was for international 300m competition, and it shot a 5 shot group into 14mm - in real money that's 0.55" at 328 yards, or 1/6 MOA. Sling & irons.

It was, as we say, 'good enough for government work'.

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[RT1200: do you have to chamfer/debur?]

I've never had to deburr - the cut is very clean (maybe due to running the 1050 quite slow - 750 per hour when trimming, with a slight dwell while cutting - and since my brass doesn't need much trimming off).

I can only relate my experience with 308, but instead of chamfering I use an M die to put just a tiny bit of flare on the case, which prevents shaving jackets or lead and actually aligns the bullet better before seating. After seating you can optionally remove the flare with a light touch from a taper crimp, but I've never found this necessary. In this case the M die also mitigates the very tight necks that result from the Dillon trim die.

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[Convince me to buy or not to buy a 1050]

The only downside that I know if is this: I like reloading. I enjoy the process. With 1050's, I don't spend nearly as much time reloading..

Hehe I get that too. After years of dreaming about making lots of great ammo, I finally justified a 1050 when a new job slashed my free time. As soon as I started to make larger batches I realized: "Hey! I'm not going to get to do any reloading for the next 2 months!" (even though I probably run the slowest 1050 on earth). Would never give it up though!

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[Redding BR30 on a 1050?]

I recently tried a RCBS Competition measure on my 1050 with a Varget-like stick powder. The variation was pretty large (worse than +/- 0.15 grains, from memory), so I didn't pursue it further. I've never used a Dillon measure, so I don't know how the RCBS compares. For the test I made-up a set of cases with used primers (ultrasonic cleaned) inserted inverted, so no powder could get trapped in the primer pocket,and weighed on milligram lab balance (A&D Fx120i).

[Do I really need a balance beam scale?]

I have a A&D FX120i for charge weighing (0.001g/0.02gr, force restoration).
I have another FX120i for backup, check-weighing loaded rounds etc.
I have a Denver APX-60 (0.0001g/0.002gr, force restoration) in case I really want to know what is coming off the A&D balances!
I have a counting balance for counting brass & bullets in quantities up to 1000.

But in the back of the cupboard is a 5-0-5 beam balance that I know I can call on whatever the circumstances anywhere on earth (that I can find a level spot).

If I could only keep one to use for the rest of my life it would have to be the beam balance.

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[RT1200B Consistency with Super 1050]

 

Lubing evenly and just the right amount is important too. I use lanolin + alcohol in a fine spray, and allow enough time for the lanolin to evaporate

How long does it take for lanolin to evaporate and doesn't that defeat the purpose??

Ooops - of course it's the alcohol that does the evaporating! Doh!

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[RT1200B Consistency with Super 1050]

I also load for long range precision bolt gun. Last batch I trimmed on my 1050 was about 300 rounds of .308. I measured 20 of them and the ES case length variance was 0.001".

I allow between 30 minutes and one hour of warm-up running, to help towards achieving thermal equilibrium before starting to trim (I'm sure there will be some extra heat generated once actual cutting starts though). I also run a large desk fan to try and take some heat away from the motor, and keep the chip vac running during warm-up. Smooth cycling with a dwell of a couple of seconds at full-stroke (i.e. while cutting) works for me, and at a rate of approx. 600 to 700 per hour.

Lubing evenly and just the right amount is important too. I use lanolin + alcohol in a fine spray, and allow enough time for the lanolin to evaporate. If you're not getting a clean cut something is definitely wrong. It's an interesting idea that the cases may be spinning, but I would have thought you would see evidence of that, e.g. rings scratched into the cases. Could this be due to the different initial length, or finish, caused by the band-saw cut?

[Who does case prep on a 1050 with a separate toolhead w/ trimmer?]

I run case-prep (with the trimmer) as a separate pass through a 1050 when I'm FL sizing. Changing out the dies is quick enough that I don't even use a separate toolhead. Changing the toolhead itself is pretty quick (when you don't need to change shell-plate or priming system), so it could save a couple of minutes I suppose, but for me that wouldn't justify the cost of a new toolhead - especally since I'm constantly experimenting and fiddling around with the setup anyway.

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[1050 with lee collet die]

Anyone running a 1050 with a lee collet neck sizing die?

How do you have it set up for trim and reload?

I just bought some for my rifle cases, and I am trying to figure out the best method to use them on this press.

Before or after I trim the cases?

Not running one yet but having had one in the drawer for 2 years waiting to test, I just happened to put it in the 1050 to try out this morning - just before seeing your post. I've never used one before on a single-stage though, so I can't compare that aspect of it.

I only ran a few test cases through it but it seemed to work well. After a little adjustment to get reasonable neck tension it cycled wthout significant force being required, and it ran smoothly without lube. Best if all it gave less bullet run-out than my alternative neck sizing approach, which is based around a Redding competition bushing neck die followed by an M die (in all cases the necks are un-turned). With the LCD the worst case run-out over the 5 or so cases I tried was 0.001", measured on a 21^st Century gauge.

Overall it looks promising. I guess my biggest concern is how consistent the neck tension will be.

If I was trimming I'd be using an RT1200B with its integral FL sizing die, so the Lee FCD would not be involved. I either Neck size, or FL size and trim.

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[1050 Shell Plate Roller Bearing]

Was it worth installing then since you had to grind the shell plate screws? Just checking as I am new to a 1050 and it is brand new . Don't want to start grinding stuff on it.. haha

I bought replacement screws, so I certainly don't mind grinding them. In my case the jury is still out on whether it was worthwhile, since I haven't been able to eliminate the spillage but I still might with more tuning. Cutting the spring for the ball that locates the shell plate is another step to try - I think I have a spare of that as well.

[.308 Redding Comp Seater problem on 1050]

If you don't mind me asking why are you using a competition seater on a progressive press? I'm sure you would get a lot better consistency using it on a single stage press such as a Forster. Just my $.02

I use a Redding comp seater because it makes very straight rounds, and the micrometer adjustment is very convenient. I use a progressive because I don't have 2 days a week to spend loading anymore - now I can make 200 rounds in the time I used to make 50 (still with precisely weighed charges though). My ammo is just as good as I used to make on a single stage - at least I've yet to find a measurable parameter that's worse or to see any worse results on target. But, I'm "only" a sling shooter, so I'm quite content with ½" groups at 300 yards or ½ minute at 1000.

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[1050 Shell Plate Roller Bearing]

Does anyone know if this works on a brand new Super 1050? I bought the setup from ebay and it looks like someone said earlier in the thread it will not work on a new 1050.

I installed the eBay kit on a Super 1050. I had to grind the top of the shell plate screws down a little to prevent the toolhead hitting them. As for whether it works, I still get spillage in .308, but there may be some more adjustment required to get it as smooth as possible.

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[.308 Redding Comp Seater problem on 1050]

What is the work around?

I cut down the sleeve on a lathe, so it only-just protrudes below the bottom of the die when at rest. Has worked great ever since.

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[Primer pickup tubes in bulk]

You can buy the tube in 6' lengths for $14.00 here...

Then get a Vibra-Prime to fill then up.

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[RT1200 Questions]

I'm interested in purchasing a Dillon trimmer but have a question about how my setup should be. I've envisioned my toolheads as follows...

Processing TH will have my size die at station 1, trimmer at 3 then I can cycle thru the machine, tumble to remove lube, swage if applicable the run thru loading head with decap die to remove media in flash hole then continue in normal fashion. My question is there any adjustability in the trim die or do you HAVE to size with it? I tend to use FB bullets and i'm not to sure about the lack of a expander in the process. Thanks in advance for your replies!

The trimmer alone makes my 1050 worth having. I load 308 for Palma and 300m shooting, so the following may or may not be relevant to your situation.

The neck of the Dillon 308 trim die is very tight when compared to the bushing I would choose for a Redding Neck or FL die. You can back off the trim die (within reason) to avoid moving the shoulder, and to limit the sizing of the body, but you can't avoid passing the case neck through that very tight die neck. Common advice is to avoid reducing the neck diameter by more than 0.005" or so in a single step. The Dillon die is so tight that I would need 2 neck reduction steps before the trim die in order to comply with the 0.005" guidance. I've ordered trim dies from CH4D that have more conventional dimensions and only require one preliminary neck-down step. The die has to grip the case a little to stop it from spinning, so I don't think you could open-up the neck and avoid sizing altogether. As a minimum some neck sizing is required.

A tiny bit of flare with an 'M' die negates the need to chamfer, and helps to give a very positive bullet alignment. The trimmer cut is very clean, so no deburr is required.

[Dillon Trimmer Questions?]

I'm having an issue with the my Dillon trimmer, the collar tilts up and down on my 1050 as the toolhead is raised and lowered. Any fix for this?

This post over at glockpost.com shows one way, using a wooden spacer to keep the vacuum collar in place.

http://www.glockpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1583

I use one of these as a spacer (Staedtler eraser):

Also I'm planning on threading the jam nut for a set screw on the trimmer die so I can move it for different calibers, any problems people have run into doing this?

Not yet, but I have three lock nuts are on the way for the same reason. There's a thread about it here:

http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=358928

They recommend a 6-32 screw, and the usual advice to use lead shot to prevent damage to the die thread from the set srew.

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[1050 Shell Plate Roller Bearing]

You realize you are paying about 500% more for the ebay kit?

By the time I've shipped it half way around the world it will probably be rather more than 5x. But next time I'm in the same country as my press I may get to spend an hour on it, so in my (unusual) case a few 10s of $ is just fine to make sure I have all the right parts, delivered together, certain to work together (not just 'should work'). I did ask if they would supply the kit without the knobs (which I won't use), but apparently everyone wants them, or at least no one else has ever asked not to have them.

[1050 Shell Plate Roller Bearing]

Well, I am the dummy. I ordered the complete kit from the Ebay site. It arrived and took me less then 20 min to change and install the complete kit.

Now that done, here is the BEEF.... Its all good, the unit makes my loader as smooth as A baby butt. No more shell plate snap and after 200 loads not a drop of spilled powder.

Great! I'm a dummy too; my kit is winging its way as we speak. What cal. are you loading that it solves spillage for you? I can't wait to stop having my super precise charges chucked all over the place!

[Turn around time on recent orders NOT of presses]

i ordered a RF100 small primer filler from Dillon... they said about 2 months...

What about a Vibra Prime while you wait for the RF100? I just ordered one from Cabelas and it arrived in 2 days. Slightly cheaper, too.

www.cabelas.com/product/Frankford-Arsenal-Vibra-Prime-Automatic-Primer-Tube-Filler/1600065.uts

Ordered a few small Dillon parts from stock at the same time and they arrived in one calendar week,

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[Hi All]

Hi all,

I live next to Bisley Ranges in the UK at weekends and spend Monday-Friday in Belgium. I shoot Palma and 300m (preferring Swiss rifles), and occasionally travel around the world to international competitions and was briefly a full-time competitive shooter. When I'm not on the range I like to spend time in my reloading room where I run the world's slowest Dillon Super 1050.

Bob.

[Super 1050 Powder Spill Issue - Please help]

I lose a few kernels from my S1050 while loading 308 for Palma competition, and I'm in the process of working through 4 possible solutions to the powder spillage. The case shake is caused by the shellplate detent, which snaps the shellplate into position a little too vigorously. Here are some possible solutions:

1) Operate the press more slowly/smoothly.

2) Tighten the shellplate lock ring.

3) Cut down the shellplate detent spring.

4) Install the (third-party) shellplate bearing kit.

If you get occasional problems feeding cases while working the press at faster speeds there's a third-party "case feed fix plate" which is a replacement cam with an improved profile to operate the case feed plunger more smoothly. You can find this on eBay. I'm waiting for one of these to arrive.

Good luck.

P.S. What cal are you loading when you have spillages?

[.308 Redding Comp Seater problem on 1050]

HI all,

I'm a new Super 1050 owner in the process of setting-up the press for .308 Win. I was hoping to use my Redding Comp Seater die (with 'sliding sleeve'), but on the upstroke, as the shell-plate starts to rotate, the bullet hits the sleeve (which has sprung out to its extended position). Has anyone else encountered this?

Before I have the protruding part of the sleeve machined off, does anyone know of an alternative solution (or of any particular problems that would result from losing the bottom 1/2" off the sleeve)?

The bullets are Sierra 2155, so not particularly 'pointy' (like VLDs), but they are seated to 0.020" off the lands, so are longer than SAAMI/factory OAL.

Thanks for any advice!

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