roxfo
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Posts posted by roxfo
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Thanks, but I did not mention using a 24V motor. I'm looking for a 240V motor to be a direct replacement for the existing 240V motor (as fitted to international spec case feeders), precisely to avoid additional wiring and modifications.
I'm not sure if the part numbers have changed since you ordered, but there doesn't seem to be a #614K44 at McMaster-Carr. There is a #6142K44 (note the extra '2'), which *looks* similar and matches the price you mentioned. -
On 5/17/2019 at 1:19 AM, Grandpoobah said:
I selected a Rex Engineering motor - #614K44 at McMasters -Carr ($57.80) - as it is a direct replacement - all five motor mounts are the same - goes in with removal of old motor and connection of the two leads to the replacement motor.
Are you sure the part number is complete? It looks like there may be a digit missing.
Also, do you have the Rex part number, as I'm trying to identify an equivalent 240V motor. I think the 'Spec Number' is what's required, but a photo of the label would be ideal.
Thanks!
Example only, showing location of spec number:
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Super 1050. Swage as you Size as you Trim.
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On 1/8/2019 at 2:46 AM, AHI said:
The case that would have powder spilling out is still shaking ie no help.
No, it's steadying the case as it moves from the powder drop to bullet drop on this press.
It could sit between any of stations 5/6, 6/7 or 7/8 to suit different configurations.
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2 hours ago, Sarge said:
Near as I can see that gizmo did nothing but make one case wobble less. Looked like things were working fine before.
Precisely. And that wobble caused powder spill (when there is powder in the cases). So it stops powder from spilling - a problem that shellplate bearings, delrin balls and cable ties has so far failed to solve.
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After trying the shellplate bearing kit, delrin ball and using cable ties I still needed to use my finger to steady the case to completely prevent powder spill on shellplate indexing. I was thinking about making some kind of spring-loaded fibreglass rod to replace my finger, then I saw the DAA PSP brush mentioned here & thought I'd give it a try. I made this video showing the 'before' & 'after'. See what you think.
I had to trim the brush a little to stop it pushing the case in too much (otherwise it would catch the bullet dropper). I also read here that the brush breaks-in a little after 100 rounds or so.
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I use a case-activated measure with a funnel to drop weighed charges. It solves a couple of issues with the static funnel approach:1) Interrupting press cycling to drop the powder isn't the best route to consistency.
2) It's easy to drop the powder at the wrong time, which is messy and time-consuming to clean-up.It does introduce another problem though, which is the potential to drop a second charge into the measure, which is also messy (or dangerous). To counter that there's a camera and light viewing into the funnel.
I used a RCBS powder measure as I wasn't convinced the Dillon measure would drop every single kernel when used this way (plus I had a few RCBS units lying around). The dispenser shelf is mounted to the wall and uses anti-vibration mounts for further isolation from the press and bench.
In the video the funnel is the purple part (made from a household cleaning spray bottle).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvHruJ8Af68&feature=youtu.be
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10 hours ago, RiggerJJ said:
I don't know about EGA, but the Dillon swage hold down die holds the case down for swaging, BUT it also expands the case mouth for bullet seating. Is that what you are looking for?
That would be perfect...if it fitted in the primer station.
Maybe I'll try and engineer something that mounts like the EGA solution and takes a Dillon swage mandrel.
Thanks all.
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Hi,
I was about to order the primer hold-down die from EGA, but they say it's not for use on rifle brass. Does anyone know of a solution that would work for rifle, specifically .308? After all, if it reaches the head of a .45 case it should reach a .308, and it's only doing the same job as a swage back-up die.
Does anyone else use the EGA primer hold-down die with .308/rifle brass, or is there another solution that can be purchased or engineered?
Thanks!
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On 16/02/2017 at 4:03 AM, CPD7119 said:
Alright, so the problem I am having is with my 1050. I have it set up to process 223 brass. Decapping die, swager, void, dillion 1200 trimer\ sizer, lyman m-die. The issue is that when I run the casings through the trim station and the m-die the shell plate looks like it flexes. Then on the upstroke it takes a little pull to get the tool head to raise. Once i apply the extra force there is a dull popping sound and then it is easy to move the tool head. Any ideas?
Pretty similar to my process, but I actually run the flare on the loading press, otherwise I found that tumbling off the lube was removing or reducing the flare.
Have you tried polishing the M die mandrel to a bright finish?
In the end I split the neck-expand and flare tasks into 2 steps. The neck-expand occurs at the end of the prep pass, using a floating carbide mandrel which helps reduce sticking and reduces runout. I run the flare during loading with a custom floating mandrel so the narrow part is barely touching the ID and it only puts on the tiny flare for the bullet dropper.
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Mine sits at eye level on heavy-duty wall mounted brackets with anti-vibration mounts and a glass/granite shelf, so it's completely isolated from the bench and presses.
The brackets are designed for bus shelter seats, so they're good for quite a load. The balance is a lab-grade force-restoration model. I've never had issues with interference from lighting or phones etc, either with these lab balances or analytical balances, but maybe some models are more susceptible. The white strip leading-in from the bottom-left corner of the image is a fluorescent light.
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5 hours ago, Chris777 said:
@roxfo..How new/old is your LNL Powder Measure...
Unfortunately I don't know. It came with a used 1050 that I picked-up.
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On 8/24/2016 at 3:47 PM, Chris777 said:
will the hornady powder measure fit on a 1050? Seems like its too tall to clear the case feeder...
I've never used it, but I had one lying around so I fitted it, and it does clear and cycle as shown in the photo (there is good clearance all around, despite how it may appear).
On 8/24/2016 at 3:47 PM, Chris777 said:is the RCBS shorter than the Hornady case activated powder measure?
Yes. The RCBS Uniflow hopper is pretty tiny. On the left is the Hornady, middle the Uniflow, and the right is the hopper from a RCBS 'Quick Change' measure. You can order the Quick Change hopper (plus baffle and cap) to upgrade a Uniflow (or "Competition") measure, but I doubt it would fit under the case feeder - if anyone is really interested I could test that configuration after my vacation. Note that there is also a RCBS "Quick Change High Capacity" measure, which is *not* compatible with the uniflow body.
I had to grind the Uniflow body (top of photo) to fit next to a Mr BF. It would probably interfere if it had the standard hopper in it.
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So it still hits the shellplate and slides up in the die
I always thought that the sleeve should be operated by the case (specifically, the case shoulder against the shoulder in the sleeve), ensuring positive location, concentricity etc. If the sleeve is driven by the shellplate then the case isn't necessarily even in contact with the sleeve and guided by it, so you might as well use a standard/sleeveless die. In other words, if the sleeve contacts the shell-holder/shellplate when a case is present, the die isn't adjusted properly. Consequently: fully cutting down the sleeve retains the intended function.
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I cut the sleeve of mine partially to keep it functioning as intended.
I'm curious why you would leave an uneven portion of the sleeve like that.
Is that what you mean by 'functioning as intended' ? If so, how does it function more 'as intended' than cutting it all the way round?
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I had to cut the sleeve flush with the die body, otherwise the bullet interferes as the shellplate starts to advance.
I am very happy with the Redding comp seater on my S1050 though; I wouldn't use anything else.
The photo shows a Sierra 2156 just clearing the die; the mic is wound almost all the way down, so you don't get a huge range of adjustment. Of course, you could back the die out but then the case wouldn't properly engage on the shoulder of the sliding sleeve.
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anyone else have there M die stick while its pulling out of the case mouth jarring the press a little. I tried polishing it and it didn't make any difference.
I used to get a bit of sticking when I expanded with M dies. These days I use a Sinclair expander with floating carbide mandrel, which reduces the sticking, then flare a little with an M die with a custom mandrel; the first part is fractionally undersize and just serves as a pilot, so it is flaring only and doesn't stick.
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I think the Palma ammo was for the international match. At that time, the host country supplied the ammunition for all the competitors, maybe for the practice ammo too. I remember reading about it in Handloader years ago.
Correct - ammo was supplied for 7 teams of 16 firers plus practice and other events. I believe 2 Dillons were used, with on-press powder measures. I load for our Palma team and for international 300m shooting on my 1050 (weighed charges though) - perfectly happy with the results.
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I'm starting to play with OAL on my .308 loads and am looking for suggestions on replacing the Dillon seating die with something that's easier, accurate and repeatable
Anyone?
I use a Redding comp seater on my S1050 for .308. It works well and gives great results (consistent length to ogive, and low runout). I had to cut-down the sliding sleeve so it was flush with the bottom of the die, otherwise the bullet catches it as the shellplate starts to advance. Others have had the same issue, but I'm not sure if it occurs on other press models.
Because of the clearance issue you may find a smaller usable range of seating stem adjustment than when using these dies on a single stage press. I adjusted the die position so the seating stem is at its lowest position for the shortest COAL with the shortest bullet I use (i.e. factory COAL with a 2155), but if I wanted to load a long/heavy VLD with a short jump for a particular rifle it may involve backing the die out, otherwise the longer round would probably still interfere with the die if the adjustment was made using the seating stem alone.
I believe the Forster die requires the same modification; you should be able to find confirmation via search. The Redding is slimmer, which may help if your toolhead is crowded, e.g. with Bullet feeder or powder check etc.
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The accuracy and resolution of the scale does not change with a change of units.
Internal resolution, maybe not, but readable resolution certainly does.The Dillon is readable to 0.1 grains, which is 6.48mg. When in grams, it is readable to 10mg - rather coarser.Lab balances, such as the popular A&D Fx-120i, are typically readable to 0.02 grains or 0.001 grams. In other words, the balance is readable to a resolution of 1 mg when on the gram scale, or 1.3 mg on the grain scale. This causes some folk to use the gram scale to obtain finer readability. Likewise, analytical balances usually read to 0.1 mg or 0.002 grains, so again the gram scale offers finer readability... -
Last night I let a load sit on the scale for a couple of minutes I noticed a fluxuation in the read out. I'm trying to to get a 3.5 measurement and the read out went from 3.5 then 3.3/3.4. Is this normal??.
Many balances use a 'zero-tracking' feature to compensate for drift. This is especially the case in strain-gauge balances (which includes most balances under $500). When the balance is at or near zero the balance will continuously home-in towards zero. Leave a weight on the balance (such that it is not indicating near zero) and zero-tracking can be prevented from operating, so drift accumulates unabated. Drift can often be reduced by allowing the balance a long warm-up time (at least an hour - I aim for 24 hours) and maintaining a steady room temperature, but drift is still a factor of life with many balances. As long as your measuring workflow allows the balance to 'see' zero for a short period every cycle, and you observe your reading within a short time after the balance has seen zero, the readings should be reliable. -
Basically you are just putting oil on walnut hull. It softens it up and then it doesn't remove the corrosion on the cases as easily.
Thanks. I'm not trying to remove corrosion, though. As I mentioned, my de-lube media is used exclusively for de-lubing (the cases are fully cleaned using separate cleaning media before lubing and case-prep). It just seems to cease effectively removing lube pretty quickly (after 3000 to 5000 cases).
What I'm really trying to find out is how long do other folks find their de-lube media lasts, particularly those who use Dillon/lanolin lube).
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Use the Dillon lube. Most everybody swears by it.
Dillon lube is Lanolin and alcohol, so should be practically identical to mine. Do you remove Dillon lube with walnut media and get longer media life than I'm finding?
Thanks!
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My de-lube media doesn't seem to last very long before it stops working - does anyone else have the same problem? How long does your de-lube media last? Description of my process follows...
I use home-brew lanolin + alcohol lube (1:10 ratio) for .308 in my 1050, then de-lube 500 at a time in a CV-2001 in fine walnut (25/50 grit) treated with polish.
I've found that the de-lube media becomes ineffective fairly quickly, perhaps after 3,000 to 5,000 rounds, whereas cleaning media is still good after 20,000 (the media is identical, just kept separate for the different processes). With both types of media I typically add a capful of polish every 3 or 4 loads, and intermediate capfuls of mineral spirits as required.
Thanks for any insight!
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Increase Dillon Case Feeder Speed
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Thanks,
I already eMailed Rex to see if they can do a 240V version; I'll see what they come back with.
I really only need the faster speed for my prep press, and I already have a 110V supply available there for the RT1200 (which was only available in 110V), so worst case is converting the case feeder to 110v and using the motor you identified. Only complication is I added an off-delay timer in there so the motor isn't stop-starting as cases drop past the micro-switch, so I'd need a 110V timer as well (assuming it isn't already multi-voltage).
These presses are exclusively for .308; my only concern is that the higher speed might not give enough time for the longer cases to drop - I occasionally get a case jamming on one of the presses. The feeders are both the old version, but I have one of the new models still boxed that's waiting for an annealer project, so I could swap that in.
Do you use rifle cases with the higher speed motor?
I'm in the UK, hence the 240V supply.
Thanks again!