Matt Griffin
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Posts posted by Matt Griffin
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I'm doing something wrong with my grip.
I'm right handed and I tried a high hand grip with my 627 using .357mag two weekends ago. The S&W raised logo took off lots of skin on the inside of my thumb because of my grip, friction and recoil.
Like a dummy, it wasn't healed and I shot the 627 yesterday. It's like I couldn't help but use the high grip. I didn't even think about it and my hand went to the exact spot that rips off my skin. So that sucked.
What should I do? I could shave down the raised logo on the factory rubber grip but I have a suspicion I'm doing something totally wrong.
Of course it's a guess without seeing you, but you're probably under compressed on your strong hand. The back of the grip needs to be in line with your arm and you need to squoosh the flesh of your palm until you a positive connection between the frame and your hand bones. If the gun is able to spend time accelerating while your hands are static, as in it is compressing your thumb flesh rather than feeding into your platform, then you get enhanced recoil and wear. A good grip should make it so that you don't even feel the shot in your hands. It's all in the wrist and arms.
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How do I reduce first-shot dwell-ltime? Going from holster or reload back on target, I'm slow with the first round. And I almost invariably put it a couple inches out about 3:00.
Thanks!
The long answer is that you need to develop the mental strategy to execute a trigger pull appropriate to the target at hand. It becomes a "feel" that you don't have to think about, driven by the desire for an Alpha.
For instance, a split shot (grip, stance, etc. already established) at 50 yards is about the same difficulty as a shot from the draw at 10 yards. Consider .4 to get the gun out and moving, the remaining .6 or so is in bringing the gun up and letting the shot go after you've seen enough of a sight picture. Call it a .6 split, then.
Everything feeds into this, nerves, exhaustion, movement, bad grip, etc. They all inform your brain as to the difficulty of the current shot, and by doing so dictate your correct trigger speed to execute. The trap is trying to predetermine the trigger speed. It's impossible. You watch me nail a draw, get a perfect grip, and let the shot go seemingly as soon as the gun reaches my eyes and you might think that's the correct speed for the shot. It isn't. It's just the correct speed for that particular shot, and will never happen exactly the same way again. I could run the stage a hundred times and I'm going to catch the grip too low, miss the weak hand coming on, put my finger in the wrong spot on the trigger, think about my crappy hotel room, etc. They all feed into a feeling about the shot at hand and your brain adjusts automatically to achieve the result. When everything is flowing perfectly you have the luxury of waiting on your finger. However, 90% of the time your finger is waiting on your brain, which has been slowed down by your mistakes.
Specifically to your question, you reduce your draw time/shot time by locking in the early parts of the draw, and your brain should start cycling the trigger midway up because it knows the sight picture will be there when it arrives. You can't fool your brain about this, it's like training a dog. It has to see enough iterations of it happening before it will trust itself to start the pull.
Train for the alphas and let your brain do the heavy lifting on "what?" and "how?" Constantly push yourself into failure territory, but do so as a training technique and not as a desire to get to a specific time or hit factor. Those things are results, not strategies.
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I would strongly advise getting a few thousand of the same headstamp. It doesn't matter which, but I can feel a big difference when something else sneaks in. Then experiment with what works, for Winchester .008 is the sweet spot. Cleaning or reaming doesn't seem to be necessary after 30 or more loads on each.
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It's normal and not a problem. I must have nearly two million cycles on my primary gun and haven't changed the stop or cylinder yet. Primary failure is yoke bending and end shake.
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Any new revo will have that problem. Get someone to ream the chambers and shoot the hell out of it, they'll loosen up.
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I went around 7 lower than normal, 40fps lower than my chrono a few days before.
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Good call, I'd also encourage everyone to enforce squad sizes, at least somewhat. Having a six man squad behind a fourteen man squad is no fun. I'm coming down and even bringing my bow, maybe I'll try the archery course after the match.
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I'll bet you a hamburger this coming Tuesday that he could beat Griffins reloads. Absolutely awesome!
Just because I choose to play nice on this forum, don't think I can't spot a troll. No hamburger for you.
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I settled on Winchester brass simply because it was what I had the most of, and it seems to work well. I don't bother measuring any more and have no failures at 5.5# trigger pull.
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First point about stage breakdown: Know where the targets are. This must be 100% perfect before moving on. Seems simple, but often it surprises folks. Do not trust the match book, do not trust the walkthrough, do not trust your fellow shooters (though keep an ear open in case they see something you don't)
Second point: Divide by six.
Third point: If the result is uneven, try to plan so that you have the extra rounds where steel is present
Fourth point: Try to empty the gun whenever possible
Fifth point: Don't make the mistake of thinking that you can magically reload before you can take a second step. You can cover a lot of ground during a reload, plan accordingly. (I'm looking at you, Olhasso.)
And there's a bunch of other stuff beyond that, but the secret of stage breakdown is to knock out the most confusing parts first, then worry about tuning. I see so many people focus on one piddly part of a stage and then wind up tanking the thing as a whole. Get the overall feel first, then worry about the fiddly bits. A confident and well-internalized second-best plan will usually beat a perfect-but-uncertain plan.
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Yeah, you're overseating them. And yeah, you do have to worry about depth.
Don't lean on the handle. Give it this stroke: forward until you feel the primer start to engage, then a firm, medium-fast shove, like you're messing with a friend and mock-fighting, shoving his shoulder without any real ill intent. You should bounce away from it a bit, but not flex the reloader at all. When I get a good rhythm going I lean forward a few inches then shove off a few inches, over and over. My failures start at .004 and below and .014 and above.
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Nah, it's not that bad, though there's every chance you could lose a part or two. The rebound slide is really the only skilled removal/reinstallation. Use a proper screwdriver and hit the screws with a blowtorch for a few seconds before taking it apart, Smith uses loctite on the yoke screw and they apparently buy screws made out of cream cheese.
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One of the issues we had in the past with Titanium Hammers for 1911's was they would not keep the sear notch stoning. Had to touch them up every 5000 rounds or so, and after 20000 they seemed to start doubling even after stoning.
Considering the amount of dryfire necessary to stay at a certain level that would be impossible to maintain.
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Wouldn't it be load recoil more than anything else? I would think the difference in gun movement during firing would have the most impact.
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The benefit isn't all about the hammer mounted firing pin, it is about all of the internal parts not being made via MIM. I have an 89' model 625 and a newer 627. The 625's hammer fall is solid. The 627 "tings" when the hammer falls. You can tell the part quality by the different sounds it makes.
Do you know of any reasons why hammer mounted firing pins would be a detractor? There are less moving parts and one less spring to worry about.
They're more difficult to cut down for trigger work. If you're leaving the hammer alone, I don't see any drawback, and as mentioned I find the hammerfall a bit more solid on mine as well.
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For headshots on paper with a 50, It's usually best to just bring the dot down enough to see paper above it, that should put you on center or high center out to 100 or more, and generally we all pull shots low if we pull them at all.
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IDPA Florida State is up, 2 to 1 SSR vs. ESR. 27 total, for what I guess is a bit more than 10%. Bringing in the speedloader crowd makes sense and doesn't change the game.
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It's all perspective Matt.
I just left the FL State IDPA Championships and 27 revolver shooters managed to trick over 200 semi-auto competitors into subsidizing the entire match for them. What a scam, eh?
IDPA stage design is about as revolver-neutral as it gets outside of Bianch Cup and the winning SSR and ESR scopre(s) were about 80% of their corresponding (Classification/Div) semi-auto scores.
Don't kid yourself. Revolver shooters lose a little until they have to reload. Then they lose a lot.
Maybe all those 627 owners are just looking for somewhere else to ply thier wears because there aren't enough ICORE events in thier area? Let's face it, 625s and 627s are a subset of an already small population - people willing to compete side by side with semi-automatics in a game the requires reloads.
The best bet is probably to make it easier for more dedicated revolver shooters to be reasonably competitive with each other. USPSA admin and rule structures are far superior to just about all others. If USPSA cannot accomodate them, no one can.
Craig
What were the participation numbers for ESR vs. SSR? I'm going to guess that SSR had quite a few more than ESR. Let's compare that to the Florida State USPSA match, conveniently already held this year as well: 7. Seven participants out of 218 entries, or 3.4 percent, vs. 10% for the IDPA match. Triple the participation.
So before I see the breakdown, I'm going to remind everyone that several times the idea was put forth to recognize a speedloader division in USPSA rather than allow 8-shots in order to increase participation. Nobody from the "we have to make changes to increase participation" seems to discuss speedloaders, while there were a number of other folks that expressed interest. I think between IDPA, ICORE, and our own shooters the choice is clear: Forget 8-shots, make minor-6-shots attractive.
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I think the real answer is this: If you want more revolver shooters, hold more revolver-only matches. Have a prize table, and have all three divisions or five divisions recognized, 8-shot, 6-shot, Open-8, Open-6, Speedloader. Kill one division at the end of the year based on participation and let whoever gets left out suck it up.
That's a great idea......we could give these special matches a name.....hey I know, we could call it the "International Confederation of Revolver Enthusiasts"!
Unless that name has already been taken by another organization who is trying to do exactly what you have described.
Not really, it's entirely different scoring and different stage design. If you want revolver participation in a USPSA match, the only way yet demonstrated is to have a standalone match. Also, apparently, ICORE doesn't satisfy the 8-shot diehard crowd who are asking that USPSA be altered to give them a berth. I find the logic suspect, since at best you might double attendance, which would still be dismal, again demonstrably, at matches.
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Why does it matter? Do NASCAR drivers talk about how their cars aren't competitive with F1 cars on F1 tracks? I'm still not seeing, across the multiple threads, any reason why any of this matters. If you like revolvers, shoot a revolver against other revolvers. If you, for some reason, just can't cope with a revolver in USPSA, don't shoot a revolver in USPSA. I don't like shooting 1911s in any action sports, they are left-hand unfriendly, I hate the grip angle, they're expensive and hard to maintain. Guess what I do about that?
I don't shoot 1911s.
If people shot their revolvers as much as they yapped about shooting revolvers (or reasons why they don't) every match would be Memphis. There is NO WAY and NO RULE that is going to bring out revolver shooters in numbers that are significant compared to semiauto shooters, other than at dedicated matches. Six or eight, it's always going to be a heavier, more expensive, harder to shoot, harder to reload gun. If you somehow manage to triple participation, you would have 21 shooters at the best-attended match so far this year, for a salty 5% of the total shooters.
I think the real answer is this: If you want more revolver shooters, hold more revolver-only matches. Have a prize table, and have all three divisions or five divisions recognized, 8-shot, 6-shot, Open-8, Open-6, Speedloader. Kill one division at the end of the year based on participation and let whoever gets left out suck it up.
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You know those super light looking strikes? That's what happens when there's not quite enough mainspring energy to pop the primer.
You know those nice deep dents you see on the ones that fired? That's what happens when the primer is driven backward from the primer pocket against the recoil shield while the firing pin is still extended forward, just before the primer is pushed back into its pocket by the case being pressed back against the recoil shield. (I'm merely expanding on what Dwight pointed out in his post above.)
In other words, totally normal situation. Means nothing.
You just need a little more mainspring tension. Just a little. Bend the mainspring a tiny bit straighter, or use a strain screw that is a tiny bit longer. That's it. That will solve the problem.
To back up Mike, while there's an obvious Too LIGHT! where I get 2 out of 6 not firing, there's also a "too light, barely" where it's 2 out of a hundred. It's a fine point, and usually the difference of a mere 1/4 turn of the strain screw. Give it that turn, and if you still have failures, I have to point back at the ammo. While I respect that you are a meticulous reloader, you may not be a heavy-handed reloader, which is what primers want for fiddly revolvers. If you still have failures, caliper 200 primers and discard anything below .006 or over .012. If you still have a problem, investigate deeper.
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Stop everything for six months. Sucks, but that's about how long it takes for tendons to heal.
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Check your primers, every one. It's also possible to overseat primers so that the pin can't reach them fully, mine start to fail around .014 and deeper. .008 seems to be the sweet spot, I'm running 5 1/2 pounds right now.
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Yeah, I'll be there Sunday, I'll bring it out.
How much accuracy is needed
in Revolver Forum
Posted
The pistol, especially when we're talking about revolver where SW is the only gun used, is not a limiting factor on accuracy. Put it out of your mind, the gun needs no other help than being pointed correctly and discharged without disruption.