Mythos
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Posts posted by Mythos
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38 minutes ago, sc68cal said:
When your gun has a compensator, the gas reduces the amount of recoil by directing gas backwards, which counteracts some of the forces. The slides are also lightened so that there is less moving mass hitting the back of the frame. Generally, the spring needs to be strong enough to strip a round from the magazine but not heavy enough where it slams the slide back into battery and makes the gun dip.
Aha thats why you lighten the frame! But og the frame hasent been lightened should i still run the light springs or will it batter my frame up?
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1 hour ago, Rnlinebacker said:
7lb ISMI. Slide locks up softly
I got a few new 7lbs which i use for my 9mm steelmaster, for steel challenges, but that seems very light, but I shall give it a go, wont the spring take up a lot of the recoil though? or is it how fast it slams back to 0 that's the point. sorry for the newb questions but I need to start tuning somewhere hehe
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24 minutes ago, StefVanHauwe said:
Hi there, IMO very dependent on type of gun, ammo parameters and shooters' preference. Most of the open 38 SC shooters in my clubs have between a 7 and 10 lbs recoil spring. Never more than 10 lbs. I strongly suggest to test it for yourself whilst you video the gun's movement in a booth, as well as during practical shooting trainings.
Really ? 7 lb.. wow that's light, I shall video it and check how it moves! thank you for replying
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Hi im new to 38SC the gun is set up with a 13 lb spring, which works well enough, but i find 10 is maby a bit faster?
i load with VV-N105 with 10.7gr and a 123g bullet, so my question is, what do you guys run in your guns ? i dont care if i ruin the gun so to speak, i race the gun and s#!t goes wrong but, i like to be on the safer side of things, also wont i reduce recoil/shoot flatter with more spring ? please give me your insights
Best regards
Atle.
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changed the bearings its as silent as i can be.. just magnificent! iv'e got a buddy of mine to measure the old ones and made me some new, with just a hair bigger tolerances now it is tight and nice! but i¨m sure you can get em store bought aswell
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I get a pretty strong thunking as well. The toolhead is tight and aligned and the referenced end cap is tight and loc-tited. My press does it with brass in Station 2 (Sizing), Station 3 (Expander/Swaging), and Station 5 (Belling/Powder Charge). This is with or without case lube (though slightly less with). With mine, it looks like the black aluminum part that connects the main shaft to the handle has too much play in it. It appears to pop when the brass leaves the dies. Fortunately, the press is still running well and producing consistent ammo. I would love to resolve this though.
It's the screw on the opposite side of your handle, securing the plastic cap over one of the 3 bearing, look on your drawing assembly cant miss it!
this helps a lot of the clunking and the rattling of the press, that being said, i'm gonna have some tighter bearings made, and tighten this bastard up!
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Are you using a Lee Factory Crimp Die? They made my 1050 clunky.
offcourse i'm using a lee factory crimp, but that isn't what makes it clunky its in station 1, but when i tighten the screw like all seven hell's excuse my french, it works great, still makes a bit of noise though and ain't as smooth as I want it
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Check your lower left end cap and make sure the screw is tight, I had to loctight mine. When it is loose, it allows play in the handle and makes the thunking worse.
That helped allot! now it's not slipping though the thunking noise still is there, the screw is a bit small to go all out on so i muscled it a little, but why haven't they tighten that system up ? they have had it for so long so it annoys me a bit.
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Hi!
Now the 1050 really messing me up. This is the problem, on the upstroke it feels laggy and hard then it releases and makes a thunking noise witch spills powder from the brass after it has gotten a powder charge, PAAAIN!, this problem only occur in station 1, a little less in station 2 and 7 but you don't get the big jump on the tool-head, other than in station 1, now ive tried lubricated brass and not lubricated brass, (this just happened btw),iv'e taken it all apart cleaned it to perfection and put it back together with new lube and all, the press is 4-5 weeks old, iv'e read that changing the #11008 bearings is a solution but i refuse to believe the bearings are gone in under 5 weeks and around 2k rounds through it, when no brass is in any station its a smooth as silk, please tell me what to do..
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Be sure the clevis pin that attaches the slie actuating lever is greased, as well as the cotter key that the springs slide on. Also be sure the bolt that attaches the ratchet to the toolhead is greased as well.
alright i found the reason, the primer mag was screwed to tight so the slide got stuck, but now i got a new problem, if i loose the screws just a little bit, 5 out of 100 primers come the wrong way up... i know i put them all correct...so that's annoying any ideas ?
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Hey, i, new on the forum all the way from Norway
Now i just got my 1050 and i have an issue with the "Slide Actuating Lever" sometimes the press just stops and i have to "wiggle" at the slide then it runs smoothly, but sometimes it stuck's because the guide screw doesn't enter correctly so i have to help it enter, it seems a bit loose, but iv'e re tighten it and its still loose. i'm pretty sure its right (since the primer system works)
any ideas ? iv'e tried to preposition it with no luck appreciate your help!
Hello 38 SC shooters what recoil springs do you use
in Gun Springs
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I ment the slide not the frame! its and infinity so the fit is very nice!, i also use a buffer, got told it would shoot a bit flatter. im on a maby, i got 4 ported barrel holes, and a 8 ported comp so it is quite amazing, still one does look for the optimal solution and where to start is always the hardest