Mythos

I ment the slide not the frame! its and infinity so the fit is very nice!, i also use a buffer, got told it would shoot a bit flatter. im on a maby, i got 4 ported barrel holes, and a 8 ported comp so it is quite amazing, still one does look for the optimal solution and where to start is always the hardest

Aha thats why you lighten the frame! But og the frame hasent been lightened should i still run the light springs or will it batter my frame up?

I got a few new 7lbs which i use for my 9mm steelmaster, for steel challenges, but that seems very light, but I shall give it a go, wont the spring take up a lot of the recoil though? or is it how fast it slams back to 0 that's the point. sorry for the newb questions but I need to start tuning somewhere hehe

Really ? 7 lb.. wow that's light, I shall video it and check how it moves! thank you for replying

Hi im new to 38SC the gun is set up with a 13 lb spring, which works well enough, but i find 10 is maby a bit faster? i load with VV-N105 with 10.7gr and a 123g bullet, so my question is, what do you guys run in your guns ? i dont care if i ruin the gun so to speak, i race the gun and s#!t goes wrong but, i like to be on the safer side of things, also wont i reduce recoil/shoot flatter with more spring ? please give me your insights Best regards Atle.

changed the bearings its as silent as i can be.. just magnificent! iv'e got a buddy of mine to measure the old ones and made me some new, with just a hair bigger tolerances now it is tight and nice! but i¨m sure you can get em store bought aswell

It's the screw on the opposite side of your handle, securing the plastic cap over one of the 3 bearing, look on your drawing assembly cant miss it! this helps a lot of the clunking and the rattling of the press, that being said, i'm gonna have some tighter bearings made, and tighten this bastard up!

offcourse i'm using a lee factory crimp, but that isn't what makes it clunky its in station 1, but when i tighten the screw like all seven hell's excuse my french, it works great, still makes a bit of noise though and ain't as smooth as I want it

That helped allot! now it's not slipping though the thunking noise still is there, the screw is a bit small to go all out on so i muscled it a little, but why haven't they tighten that system up ? they have had it for so long so it annoys me a bit.

Hi! Now the 1050 really messing me up. This is the problem, on the upstroke it feels laggy and hard then it releases and makes a thunking noise witch spills powder from the brass after it has gotten a powder charge, PAAAIN!, this problem only occur in station 1, a little less in station 2 and 7 but you don't get the big jump on the tool-head, other than in station 1, now ive tried lubricated brass and not lubricated brass, (this just happened btw),iv'e taken it all apart cleaned it to perfection and put it back together with new lube and all, the press is 4-5 weeks old, iv'e read that changing the #11008 bearings is a solution but i refuse to believe the bearings are gone in under 5 weeks and around 2k rounds through it, when no brass is in any station its a smooth as silk, please tell me what to do..

alright i found the reason, the primer mag was screwed to tight so the slide got stuck, but now i got a new problem, if i loose the screws just a little bit, 5 out of 100 primers come the wrong way up... i know i put them all correct...so that's annoying any ideas ?

Hey, i, new on the forum all the way from Norway Now i just got my 1050 and i have an issue with the "Slide Actuating Lever" sometimes the press just stops and i have to "wiggle" at the slide then it runs smoothly, but sometimes it stuck's because the guide screw doesn't enter correctly so i have to help it enter, it seems a bit loose, but iv'e re tighten it and its still loose. i'm pretty sure its right (since the primer system works) any ideas ? iv'e tried to preposition it with no luck appreciate your help!