RexKramer
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Posts posted by RexKramer
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I was able to heat it up with a heat gun and pop it off (nearly literally... nothing nothing nothing BAM loose).
My next conundrum is installing the Smoke hand guard. Easy enough, except when the barrel nut is installed it leaves the hand guard canted a little so the mlock slots aren't at 12/3/6/9. More like 11:30 or 12:30 for the top one as an example. I haven't torqued down on it hard, but I don't think it's really going to move much more as it's at the barrel already.
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26 minutes ago, Kokeman said:
I prefer a heat gun over a torch.
My overlapping hobbis provides me access to a heat gun from RC airplane covering.
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14 minutes ago, CharlieD said:
I believe they use loc-tite on the barrel but, so you may have to put a torch on it.
Thanks that was my next step. I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything to remove the hand guard once I get to the point of using the JP adapter nut tool with a wrench.
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Ok I'm an idiot with a side of moron, so I'm having trouble replacing the Mark III hand guard from my GMR-15 with a Smoke.
My issue so far is actually getting the hand guard assembly off. I have the hand guard off, but when using the barrel nut adapter, I cannot get the nut to budge. What am I missing? Besides common sense.
Thanks!
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On 1/17/2021 at 2:57 PM, rovpilot337 said:
Sweet baby jesus that's a slick setup.
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When I picture bump firing, shooting a PCC doesn't come to mind. Just get on the trigger.
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The 6-32 x 3/8 seem to work like a champ. Just need to put a dab of locktite on them.
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Thanks for the replies, guys. And yeah CZC gave me the same answer they gave TommyK up there.
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Oh I know. I plan on emailing them, but I was just wondering if anyone here knew. It's amazing how fast you can get an answer.
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I have a S2 slide that I just picked up and I want to put a SRO on it. It has the CZC mounting plate, but the SRO's screws are too long to fit properly. I could, of course ask CZC, but what fun would that be?
Does anyone know what size/pitch screws the SRO takes and what the length would need to be to properly fit to the CZC mounting plate that's on the S2 slide?
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Accu Shadow 2
in CZ
A Shadow 2 with ACCU bushing is legal for USPSA production.
Well stated [emoji16][emoji106] -
I have one that I've played with only a little. One thing I did notice is you need a stock hammer spring to make it reliable. If you have a lighter one, you'll get some light strikes.
Can't recall the racking force, unfortunately. It didn't stand out as being strong.
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That ATF cameo was brilliant.
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12 hours ago, LowSpeedHighDrag said:
I'm curious at what barrel length the N320 powder would be completely burned up. It may be at a longer length than a pistol but shorter than the rifle.
Again, just a guess, I've never tried to do the experiment.
I read (yeah one of the worst phrases to use) that fast burning powders such as N320 and Titegroup will be fully burned by the time the bullet gets to the end of a 14.5/16" barrel. The thread was originally discussing the best brakes for PCC and came to the conclusion that even with slow burning powders there wasn't too much "oomph" from the gas at the end of a long 9mm barrel. Obviously there is gas coming out, but it's not enough to work a brake to much effectiveness. During the course of that discussion a few people were talking about velocity loss with fast powders and longer barrels.
Now exactly how long a barrel needs to be to have this happen with a certain load work up? I have no idea. To test it you'd need two rifles that are identical other than the barrel length. Say a 8" and 16" barrel. Maybe even a 12" barrel in between.
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1 hour ago, LowSpeedHighDrag said:
Sorry, wouldn't it slow down the bullet and cause a drop in PF?
You'd think so
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My very un-expert opinion is that the VV N320 powder was completely burned up well short of the end of the barrel, so the rest of the barrel just provided drag on the bullet.
I imagine that is what is happening. Similar to how slower burn powders improve muzzle brake performance. -
Maybe. I would compare accuracy between the powder loads and take that into consideration too. I think a smidge less softness is something that training can compensate for, but you can never shoot better than the inherent accuracy of the load in your gun.
Very good point! -
11 hours ago, Cowboy1629 said:
I saw a jump from 131 to 149 going from 4” pistol to 14.5 JP.
I run different loads between the two.
I guess that jump is worth a twist on the powder drop. Thanks!
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I'm going with N320. I'll use the same load for both PCC and pistol.
I’ll probably be doing the same.
I haven’t chrono’d the rifle yet, but if I’m doing 130-ish pf with 124gr bullets out of a 5” pistol, how much of a jump in PF would I expect from a 14.5” barrel?
I don’t see myself loading PCC specific loads to shoot through my GMR. Would like the same loads for both pistol and rifle.
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The nice thing about the accu is that bullet is going where the gun is pointed when the hammer drops. If you miss it’s because of you. That being said it won’t matter for most shooters.
Accu owner. -
I torqued them to TLAR standards.
That
Looks
About
Right
I just gave it a reasonable tighten with the wrench and called it a day. Haven't had a problem.
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Probably wouldn't be my first choice, for the same reason that people tend to choose the G34 or G17 over the G19 for competition.
People usually chose a 34 or 17/17L over a 19 because of the sight radius. The guns aren’t inherently more accurate. Sight radius won’t be a factor in CO so I’d imagine the P10c would be great if the guy wants a polymer striker pistol.
A couple of catches to the above. The shorter barrel means less velocity for a given load so he would need to be certain he’s making power factor if he’s loading his own. The P10c will also be outclassed by the steel frame guns if looking at weight for recoil management. Then again, transitions should be quicker with the lighter pistol. -
I bought the kit that has the AA belt and also the mag pouches a couple weeks ago. Took about a day or two at most to ship.
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On 5/2/2018 at 7:27 AM, Hi-Power Jack said:
People with a very strong grip are ready to fire a 2nd shot quicker than people like me -
So, I don't mind "waiting for the gun" since I'm not ready anyway.
If you have a very strong grip, you would probably prefer the 124's - for me 147's and possibly
165's are much nicer
Ah I was wondering. I usually shoot 124 through mine. Always thought the 147 seemed to make the gun shoot "slow".
Removing JP MK III handguard to put a Smoke on.
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
Thank you yeah I was just coming to that realization.