TerryYu
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Posts posted by TerryYu
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Just picked up my new M&Pc with a test fire date of 2/5/2013. It definitely has the Shield trigger in it and the trigger block does NOT interchange with my Pro. It looks like it has the new design barrel.
First impression is that it's got a VERY pronounced reset and the sear has been redesigned to look a lot more like the performance center sear (overtravel angle). Started off with an awful 8 pound pull but after a full disassemble and polish it's down to around 6. The reset is loud just like a Glock which addresses my main problem with the M&P platform. It's a better reset than my Pro with the Apex RAM! With some more polishing, I don't think that an Apex hard sear is required for these new guns.
Pretravel is still terrible though, it's very crunchy because of the square plunger just like before.
Will post pics and report on accuracy when it's not 11pm
Quick addition, is the sear spring plunger critical? I noticed that my pro doesn't have it, just the little spring underneath the sear whereas the compact tried to launch its plunger into orbit the second I took out the sear pin. The pro doesn't seem to have any problems shooting...
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What's your load data with Unique? I bought a pound one day for s&g and might have to fall back to it when I run out of N320 if i can't more.
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I had a bunch of 147s that I shot up prior to the 160s. The cone shape didn't give me a warm fuzzy for feed reliability. Over 2k rounds the gun didn't misfeed, but there were definitely times where I could feel the slide hang up prior to chambering the round because it had to get the cone over the feed ramp. The 160s are round and go in like butter.
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I got a big order of 160grs in and I can say that they are pretty impressive. Even less recoil than the 147grs and they can out of my Shadow, hit milk jugs out to 75 yards after figuring out the correct holdover.
3.0gr of N320 at 1.14inches will make about 130-132pf out of a CZ and will chamber with room to spare. Just make sure you have a lightish recoil spring, I use a 9# spring as this load failed to cycle reliably in a friend's 9mm 1911.
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An update to this old thread. I went to the public range today and decided to see if I COULD actually hit something at 75 yards (backstop) with a pistol. Put a mag worth of SWCs from my 1911 into a 12" target on the backstop and was able to get 3 on the black, after checking the target I realized that I had to hold about 6 inches high which was a pain cause I couldn't actually see the target with my chunky night sights covered it up!
Moved on to milk jugs, was able to hit them about 50% of the time with the .45 which was good enough for me. Then I brought out my CZ75 Shadow with 160gr bunny fart loads and was able to make about the same hits with it. I always thought that 9mm wasn't as accurate as .45 but I was proven wrong there!
Blew up a orange juice jar before someone could use it to sight in his rifle
, he told me I could shoot at it but I don't think he though I would hit it...So I guess in closing, clay pidgeons are probably not possible, but called shots on milk jugs are a distinct possibility.
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I've got both of those. Have to use them though!
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Great feedback bigfish.
Sadly the babysitter fell through so I'm sitting at home playing Black Ops instead of Real Shooting. I've got IDPA next weekend, which isn't anywhere close to USPSA as far as stage planning is concerned, since it's mostly dictated. I'll wind up doing better in IDPA relative to the regulars than at USPSA because I don't have to develop much of a stage plan!
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Good points Lex. I'll be shooting this weekend and I'll try and come up with a better stage plan.
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I'm going to try limited minor next weekend and see if I can make myself move faster without the distraction of constant reloading.
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Thanks lumpy.
I was deep in that port when I didn't have to be. That's an issue with intentions and actually doing it. I am always talking about not crowding barrels and ports and then when the timer goes off I still do.
Same with the reload. I can do Burkett reload drills in about 0.8 seconds reliably and can reload in a couple of steps in dry fire. I think I need to dry fire shooting on the move, ports, and reloading while trying to navigate around things.
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I'm currently a 55% or so shooter and would like to see what others would recommend I work on.
Here's two stages from last weekend's match. I am shooting a CZ 75 Shadow with the first shot DA.
I was first C in prod and 3/13. 21/46 overall. Generally I felt very sluggish. It may have been the temperature, as it was about 50 degrees and falling. It really seems like I am having a ton of problems shooting on the move, cause once the timer starts I tend to run to a position and stand there.
It took me forever and a day to prep the trigger and I did a bunch of stand and shoot.
This was a bit better, but I wound up getting a miss into hard cover about 1/2 inch from brown. My hands were also freezing by the time I got to the last shooting position.
I've put some lighter springs in my gun to make the DA a bit lighter and I will be trying some dry fire while forcing myself to move more.
Any more tips? Do I currently shoot like someone who's a C, or am I a lucky D? Thanks!
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Thanks, that's exactly what I needed!
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I'd like to try a lighter mainspring in my CZ but CZCustoms is completely out of stock on the 13 pounder. Is there any other source for the spring or an acceptable substitute from another type of gun?
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That target is more than legit. One of our matches (IDPA perhaps?) had two targets behind "prison bars", which was 5 or so bars vertical bars all the way across the target and the general consensus among the shooters were, "this is hard, but awesome".
Fun to see people dump 10 rounds into two targets to make sure they get the hits.
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Thanks! I loaded up some 147gr 3.3 VV N320s at 1.135 OAL that I'll be testing tomorrow. It's a very soft shooting load through my CZ although I expect it to kick a bit more out of the M&P, my CZ has a "slow" barrel and takes more powder to make power than most.
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What was the PF on that load Jeremy?
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I was wondering if anyone has loaded this particular combination of bullet/powder in a M&P Pro 5"? I was thinking about starting around 3.2gr of powder at an OAL of around 1.13".
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Your shot splits would be faster if you wore MOLLE webbing and at least 5 AR mags. Provides ballast for absorbing recoil.
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Thank god someone has finally told me how and why my 45acp 1911 is so unreliable. In my naïve way, i thought that 16k rds without a malfunction would tell me something about my guns reliability. Apparently i am wrong, 16k ago i tested a lswc with the oal a little long.... And one of them kept the gun out of battery. If i had been in my garage loading that ammo on the 650 and someone tried to rob me.... My gun might have failed me. Before that instance, the gun only ran 9k rounds without a problem. Man i am an idiot. That guy has been outside the US and has 15k students! His webcam works, obviously it is a glock. I guess that my mass produced POS STI 1911 is unreliable and i should trade it for a G19 and some cash for his class, that way i can receive two days of his gospel like opinion.
... Maybe i should get rid of all three of my reliable 1911s... Now that i know how unreliable they are.
You're right in that Glocks are far superior. As I cannot get my 1911 to feed 300gr wadcutters, it is broken.
Honestly though, if you're the average gun owner that doesn't really know much about guns, shoots about 100 rounds a year, and never oils or cleans his gun; a Glock is a fantastic choice as a 1911 might become a jamomatic under those conditions.
What is your OAL for SWC? My SIG 1911 has problems eating 200gr SWC cast from a Lee mold.
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Simple press = nothing to break!
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Did you try the CGW pull reduction kits before you turned it back in?
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It's an external extractor design. One of the reasons I bought it was I was tired of the ejector always needing tuning on my old gun so I went to the external. I will be polishing the chamber and perhaps breaking the edge on the barrel a bit.
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I've taken more photos.
Wadcutter Jam
Round nose Jam
Barrel to frame fit. There's enough frame exposed.
Went back and tried some more combinations of mags/bullet lengths. It really seems like the reason the gun is jamming is the cartridge is too short and fat and has to make a very large angle change and can't quite do it. With that in mind, I made some dummy rounds that were backed out to max spec, 1.275 to where the driving band of the bullet just barely stuck out of the brass. Feeds like butter.
I guess my search is at an end. For this specific bullet's ogive it will not feed 100% reliabily at 1.250 with wadcutter lip magazines (I could induce a jam by slowing down the slide stroke) and not reliable at all with hybrid lip mags.
Eats bullets as fast as I can rack the slide from 1.27 to 1.28 and at any speed.
At 1.280 the lube grooves hit the rifling and the gun will not go into battery.
So I suppose my gun/ammo combination only works within 1/100th of an inch of COAL. I wonder if this is normal or if the chamber is a bit tight on the gun?
Last weekend's shoot - Where should I go for improvement?
in Video Training Tips
Posted
Update:
Worked on moving during dry fire and it paid off in a big way.
Got contacts, game changer.
Just shot my club's monthly IDPA match and was lowest time overall. I shot faster than I've ever shot before and I really think it's because I've gotten over freezing over the DA and actually being able to see my slide cycle with my new contact lenses!
Had no idea how much I was being held back by my vision until I started shooting today. Previously I had to choose between shooting with both eyes open and everything being a blur or long distance vision with one eye. Didn't think that it slowed me down very much, but today the sights and the targets were so clear! Shot much faster because I could see much faster.