fmj3
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Posts posted by fmj3
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Ultimo, what was your HS6 load for that same bullet?
Thanks for the info.
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For plinking and target shooting pistol rounds I'd recommend looking into the coated bullets like Bayou,BBI, SNS, Blue, etc.
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If some male GM wants to undergo an operation (or three) to
beat Graufels, sounds little bizarre to me, but, what the hell.
You haven't been paying attention. No need to undergo any operations, just say you self-identify as a female and run against the women.
I doubt we'll have this issue in the shooting sports, at least in my area.
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As stated above - thin high-capacity followers will lock the slide with a round (sometimes 2) in the magazine and aggressive reloads with an open slide can damage the ejector.
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I had the same outcome trying bayou, sns, black bullet and blue bullets in a 9mm open gun. A single double tap with a far enough transition wasn't bad, but the cmore would get pretty cloudy by the end of a 32 round stage (gun has 3 barrel holes).
Only using PD & MG JHPs now in the open gun.
Coated bullets in anything without a comp & optic - would probably be fine in a prod optics gun.
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what exactly is the problem with "BS 100 or 105 PF stuff ..."?
Nothing.
The problem is with the people that use the term "BS" to describe legal ammo.
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Well if it would level the playing field and it follows USPSA Minor PF Rules, seems like a good idea to me.
I'm talking 125 PF for ALL Centerfire guns. It doesn't have any impact on Limited or Open, you can download your .40 cal or do whatever
you want. It just weeds the BS 100 or 105 PF stuff out..
I see the problem now.
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I'm just wondering if you can even get enough AC in a 9mm case to make major with those holes?
If so, I want some bigger barrel holes.
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That can be true. Sorry, I have not spoke to Kincade in a while. Cheers
Looks like Kincaid switched over from 38 super though. He was posting his DVC was in 9 major.
Not sure if you saw the video of the case head separation Shannon had, it's pretty epic though.
https://www.facebook.com/UniversalShootingAcademy/videos/822321477866165/
Looks like a .38 in that vid with those barrel holes.
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Looks like you just need the case feeder kit & collator - about $30 total
Two things to adjust the indexing - the flipper depth (I set mine for just a hair of shell plate wiggle when the ram is down) and the carrier body (loosen the screw at the bottom of the ram to rotate it so the flipper hits the indexing tabs & slide correctly on the frame). The beveled edge on the index rod goes a specific direction. It's a really super simple design and I'm sure you'll have no issues making run like a top - probably be posting some helpful hints before too long.loadmastervideos dot com has a ton of info.
I do the sizing on 1 and have u-die half way threaded in 2 like some above and have very few priming issues. I run mixed brass no problem, I have the primer seating depth just a little over inserting for a super firm primer seating.
The micro-charge bar is garbage IMO.
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Unless you are shooting a game that requires it, you don't want the slide to lock back.In a CK Arms limited..
Is there a fix to this problem ??
Why?
A couple I can think of are over insertion of the mag causing damage to the ejector and the thin high capacity followers tend to lock back the slide with a round still in the mag.
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To hand prime you must:
Put case in press. Cycle press to remove primer
Put case in hand prime tool. Prime.
Now it's ready to go back into the press for loading.
That makes 3 times into a shell holder to get it loaded. From a cleaned fired case.
On the press priming you put it in once. It gets deprimed and on the down stroke re-primed. It now also gets powder and a bullet so rather than 3 separate operations it's just 1.
Depriming each case 1 by 1. Then hand priming 1 by 1 then loading them takes most of the benefit out of having a turret press. Might as well go single stage as the time spent loading will be comparable.
This.
I'm not understanding the issue with the safety prime on the LCT? A few minutes to get it adjusted properly and it just works, a quick tap during the sizing/de-prime op and the primer is ready for insertion on the upstroke.
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the advice to follow ...
look in EACH case for powder before you put the bullet on it.
everything else is icing on the cake.
Great advice. That's the same powder check I use and I've never had a squib thus far.
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I can get 30 in my MBX 170 by hand without much trouble. Saying it's 30 reloadable might be a stretch, but it seats no problem with just a bit of extra push. 30+1 starts have never been an issue with mine.
I've done 30 round table starts with it, but no mid stage 30 round reloads - I can only remember one thing at a time.
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If you're gonna run your brass thru the FCD with the bulge buster kit (this makes nice brass for me) I'd just use the one from the 4 die kit and then get a taper crimp die like the redding for when you actually load the brass - especially if you use lead or coated bullets.
Once you get the safety prime system adjusted right it works great, I had to open the mount hole a hair to get it just right on my press.
I have a progressive now, but the LCT still gets used all the time - it's great for all types of reloading stuff.
ETA: If you load long get the 40L hundo - it works great too.
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When I was running MBX mags I was getting 23/29 reload able easily in 38SC and could do 30 on the big stick to start
Same here with 9mm.
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I thought you said the STI mags w/o spacers ran flawlessly? What more would you want?
MBX tubes will run great with 9mm, they have the full width rib like an SV.
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Mine is far more consistent than the auto disk but it pisses wst everywhere
Mine did the same with HS6 (similar size powder) at first. Cleaning all the mating surfaces again really well and playing with the drum tension seems to have cured mine.
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Update: I pulled it back apart and cleaned up all the mating surfaces again really good and re-dusted with mica and it seems to be leak-free now.
Did about 100 drops with HS6 and had zero flakes leak this time. I tightened the adjustment knob just a smidge past where the drum is movement free. Drop accuracy was mostly in the +/- 0.05 range.
My pro-autos leak a little with fine powders, but work well and drop accurately once I have a disk hole modified to the drop I want.
The big advantage with this measure over the pro-auto is the ability to quickly make drop adjustments and be able to do them in small increments. The adjustable charge bar for the pro-auto is garbage and very inaccurate in my experience. The auto drum may also do really small charges safely from what I've heard, just haven't messed with that yet.
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Initial testing with HS-6 not as good as expected.Powder drop accuracy was on par with the autodisk, but it actually leaked more powder than the autodisk. Looks to be migrating through the labyrinth groove the drum rotates in. Tried tightening that until it started impacting the return rotation of the drum - still leaked.Everything is cleaned and wiped down to reduce static. Tried dusting a bit with mica as well.The ability to easily adjust the charge weight in small increments is nice.I'll have to play with it a bit more when I get time.
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I'd get the 9mm followers and spacers. No matter how long you load 'em, that 9mm brass will never consistently reach the 2nd rib on an STI mag w/o a spacer behind it.
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CK Thunder Open
115 JHP (PD or MG)
8.5 HS6
1.150
Runs like a top after getting it broken in. Very tight when new. I also switched to a 90 degree mount.
What's your PF with this load?
Consistently right around 172.
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CK Thunder Open
115 JHP (PD or MG)
8.5 HS6
1.150
Runs like a top after getting it broken in. Very tight when new. I also switched to a 90 degree mount. -
I'm back down to 1.150 - the longer I went the worse the accuracy got for me (out to about 1.170 max).
I'm guessing it's probably due to the neck tension with the shorter 115s - not much bullet in the case at 1.170
Xtreme hpcb ok for major?
in 9mm/38 Caliber
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Why plated when you can get jacketed for less? Well if you buy at least 2k from PD they'd be cheaper.