hunt_fish
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Posts posted by hunt_fish
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Hi all,
Would appreciate your views of my latest club match - be brutally honest - I can take it... Have been out of action for a few months and getting back up to speed.
Hard to tell what grade I am by USA standards (M grade in New Zealand). Only one other guy shooting Open with me so I was 100% all the way...
I have already picked up on the fact that I need to work on transition speed and so have been working this hard following this video.
Also need to get the gun up heading into each array.
Would be keen to know any low hanging fruit you observe.
Points as follows - generally dropping C's, the odd D. Open major.
Stage 1: 136 / 145
Stage 2: 87 / 95
Stage 3: 133 / 140
Stage 4: 98 / 115 (shot a PT... dragged the gun across the three targets below the swinger and didn't drive it to each target separately).
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45 minutes ago, glockman75 said:
Why not just have 170's?
I was new to open and I bought 3: 170's and 3: 140's.
A friend of mine has 6: 170's. I think if I had to do it again I would go all big sticks.
In my opinion you need a short stick in case there is a prone stage under a port where a big stick would raise the gun too high... Only ever had this happen once, but once is enough!
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4x 170's and 4x 140's. If I have to reload, once I collect the dirty mag off the ground it goes back in my range bag for the day and doesn't get used again until it's cleaned
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12 hours ago, andersonj55126 said:
I have both the DPP 2.5MOA and the RTS2 8MOA and they are actually very similar dot size. The DPP was very expensive but now is a similar price to RTS2. I still talk to people who think DPP is too expensive to consider.
The RTS2 has a better way to adjust brightness but the DPP is better for me in every other way. DPP has much better glass, zeroing adjustments and battery design. Ideally, both sights could have lower profile base but after a little dry fire, it does not really matter.
The dot size variation between manufacturers astounds me... How a 2.5MOA and an 8MOA can look the same is ridiculous, when it should be measurable at 100yds. I've noticed this too. From your picture / description, I'm glad I went for the 3MOA RTS2 - 8MOA is way too big for my personal liking
Thanks for the pic.
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On 5/07/2017 at 11:06 PM, theWacoKid said:
It probably won't. The 3 is crazy small. I compared it to a 2 MOA in a slideride and it was smaller than that. I shot a few matches with a 3 but it isn't ideal.
Shot a club match this past weekend. Crazy small is right - but it's very precise and is bright enough even with the sun from behind.
Could aim for the centre of a 6" plate at 40m no problems. For now - I love it!
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Thanks folks - I've gone with an RTS2. Will get it fitted for the weekend and see how we go!
Went for the 3moa (as that was all I could find) - I use a 4moa in my slideride at the moment and hoping that with it on full brightness it will appear large enough...
Will let you all know how I get on!
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Hi all,
Sorry to reopen such an old thread - have a couple of questions. I run a sideways CMore and am getting fed up with having to jam my weak hand thumb into the gap where my thumb rest sits. More often than not I miss the grip (I dry fire a lot) and I'm tempted to go back to an upright CMore because of it. However I like the dot height of the sideways CMore and the lack of ejection issues - both of which could potentially be solved by going to an RTS2 or the Leupold.
@Shadyscott999 It looks like it's been just over a year since you tried the DPP - still running it? Any issues?
Does anyone have a measure of the height of the dot above the base of the scope for the RTS2 and the Leupold?
I'd like to compare dot heights above the bore for the upright CMore, RTS2, Leupold and sideways CMore; although I'd suggest those are roughly in the right order but RTS2 / Leupold are probably interchangeable?
Cheers, Ryan
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Kia ora! I'm based in Auckland and am a born and bred kiwi.
We have a few different license classes that let you own and shoot different category guns. "A Category" guns are bolt action sporting rifles or semis up to 7 rounds. "B Category" is for pistols. "C Category" is for collectors licenses and covers everything not in any other category (these can't be legally fired). "D Category" is for dealers. And "E Category" is for what we like to call MSSAs - military style semi automatics - semis with more than 7 rounds or a pistol grip.
To get an A Category license is pretty straightforward - a background check by an interviewing police officer who also checks you have a safe to store them in.
You need an A Category license before you can apply for the other license classes. To shoot pistols or E Cat rifles is a bit more complicated. For pistols you need to be a member of a pistol club (there are lots around, most shoot IPSC) and complete a set number of shoots in a probationary period. Then you can apply for the B endorsement to your license.
Similar for E Cat - a couple of extra referees and a legitimate reason to own them and you're good to go.
Oh and B and E Category guns need special storage - the equivalent of a 6mm steel, dual locked safe anchored to your house.
Most pistol clubs around shoot IPSC - we also have 3 Gun which is currently run to IPSC rules - and multigun is just getting up and running (to 3 Gun Nation type rules).
If you're a snow sports type then Queenstown is a hotspot in the South Island. Warm in summer (30+ degrees C) and surrounded by snow in winter. Good hunting opportunities too (deer and tahr).
Ping me a PM if you want to know any more
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I had this recently. Combination of aftec too loose and ejector angle too flat. Was trying to throw the cases vertically out and then would lose grip on them!
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Pick a spot where it will appear. Prep the trigger. Break the shot when it appears. Repeat when it appears again
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If brass is hitting the scope mount on the way out then the ejector needs tuning so cases come out at the right angle. Try Brazos website for articles on this
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Do you make sure it's fully charged? Mine does a similar thing if I try to use it with low battery. But works great after a charge
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Agree mag issue. Check the feed lip dimensions, and that they are slightly tapered out. Make them more parallel if you need to get the bullet nose down more
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Jim,
I shot this stage too - in 4.5s (open). The key here was to shoot the targets as they appeared (right to left), to minimise the amount of time spent NOT SHOOTING. I see you waited until the last target was out and shot it left to right - you effectively 'wasted' about 1s waiting.
If you compare the two directions, shooting left to right didn't gain you anything, as yes, you shot the left hand target when it was stopped, but by the time you shot the right hand target it was at full speed. Going right to left meant you shot the right hand target at full speed, but by the time you got to the left hand one it was stopped. So the speed of the targets was similar no matter which way you shot it.
The other part was to try and get all shots on the paper in the first pass. By not doing this, you had to wait like 1.5s for the targets to reappear, which absolutely kills the stage time...
I'll have a look but don't think I have video of me shooting that one.
Ryan
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That's why the Pro-Am format is awesome for spectators/video. Instant scoring and you can even tell who's winning after each stage without a scoring program...
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Chunky silicon carbide is the way to go. Add some progrip and that baby won't move when you grab it. But make sure you dry fire so you get the right grip before it locks in place!
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I have moved from the short curve to a long flat - for me it is more about the length. I need to get my pad in the right place subconsciously which allows me to pull the trigger straight back every time
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Agreed - dry fire is where this gets learnt. Also taking a fraction longer to make sure you have a solid grip before the gun comes out of the holster is worth it - losing 0.1 on a draw will be made up in transitions and splits across the first few targets
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Take out the lock screw and check that it's not covered in crap. A friend recently had one that had some form of lacquer on the screw and we had to take it out, clean it off and put blue loctite back on
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I agree with Kevin. If it's being high on the backstrap that helps (which it should), try a normal draw but just slightly behind where you need to be, and ensure the last motion as you grab the gun is up into the beavertail/backstrap? Just a thought, eliminating the large extra movement but still giving you the same result you've found to be effective?
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Just say the stage is to be shot to IPSC rules
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Loving this thread!! Great stuff.
Excuse my ignorance - but is the angle you have cut the right way? I would have thought it was 1 degree the opposite way to allow the top of the comp to move backwards as the barrel unlocks?
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Not 100% sure but I think it's Google Sketchup? Search on here and you'll find instructions and prop packages to use. Ryan
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There's some trick I've read about with the glock that you can put a small bit of cardboard in the breech to hold the slide slightly open and it lets the trigger work on all dry fire 'shots'?
Search on here, I'm sure you'll find it.
New Zealand - Open Shooter - Pick me apart
in Video Training Tips
Posted
Thanks - points noted.
The barrels are full of rubber chip - the ranges are freshly constructed and until the berms settle we don't want to chew up the banks. Once the grass has grown and the dirt has settled we'll have some more 'normal' set ups.