jeffm_norcal
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Posts posted by jeffm_norcal
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Clint has it right, in that if you want to stay production legal you want the comp kit. I have shot several of these and the over travel varies, mine for example is very minimal. There is a video on YouTube where they show how to adjust the over travel, the procedure worked for me. What is consistent with everyone I know who has one is that you will have the occasional dead trigger failure. You can mess about with the trigger bar per their instructions and it gets better but never completely goes away. It's worth it for the better trigger imo, but don't fool yourself about reliability. Once you do this your gun is competition only from that point forward, and you will have an occasional bad stage until you get fast at clearing it. As long as you are ok with this it Is a substantial improvement on the stock trigger pull.
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+1 for stealth gear. I got one for my p239 and it is hands down the most comfortable and least printing holster I've ever had. The only downside is that it is a bit tricky to re holster without muzzling yourself. More than worth it though, especially if you live somewhere hot.
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Look in some of the other threads on here for great suggestions on how, but in general focus on moving faster. Especially on the last stage, you just take way too much time moving between positions. That was certainly my lowest hanging fruit early on and it looks like yours too. As BE says, "get to the shooting". Focus on speeding up every movement that isn't shooting. Start with anything that happens multiple times on most every stage, then things that happen maybe once per stage, then things that happen a few times per match, and so on. This will have the greatest impact due to stacking effect. Apply this same strategy to prioritize what to work on in your shooting mechanics as well.
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Paint inside the mag well is illegal? In production?
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Perfect, thanks Sarge! Figured it would be OK but it's always nice to hear that someone has already made it work.
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Hey I'm setting up a 650 to load 9 exclusively, and my go to currently is BBI 135s. Does anyone use an MRB with these or similar? Any problems?
Thanks!
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I use the open front safari land with the rollers, but mounted on tek-Loks. Nice if you play both idpa and uspsa and reasonably priced.
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Why would coated lead be an issue?
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Go with an untucked shirt for a few matches. If you think you are going to stick with it Google up Armadillo Concealment and get one of those. It's worth it to get the right fit and mesh back for summer.
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I too only load 9 and shoot 1000-1500 per month. I can't say anything about the Sdb, but I can say after 2 years of loading on the 550 I really wish I had popped for the 650. Get it basic and add the toys later, you will never regret the time you save. A Dillon is a solid investment, find a way to spend the extra and get the best you can upfront. In the end, I will probably end up buying the 650 in addition to my 550, so over the long run buying the 550 will end up costing me more than if I just bought the 650 to begin with.
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The real truth is that you should fall back to a starter load and chrono back up to final any time you change to a new jug, same powder or no. You can of course not do so, but how much are your gun and hand(s) worth to you?
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I started to see pressure signs at 4.2. My go to for nv320 with BBI 135 is 3.7 @ 1.130. This consistently make 134PF out of my M&P Pro.
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+1 on the crimp issue. If you haven't pulled one yet, do that before anything else. BBI are great bullets but suffer if over crimped. I use 3.7 of N320 at 1.125 with 135s, in a S&W M&P Pro. It makes a very consistent 134PF and is more accurate than I am. A great resource for BBI loading issues is BBI itself BTW. Chandler has always given me great tips and responds super quick.
If length becomes a limiting factor consider getting a throat reamer from Brownells.
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Thanks for the info, pretty much what I thought.
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So a question for those who might have some insight. I shoot both IDPA and USPSA, and have for about two years. Since I tend to really geek out on things generally, I shoot a lot. Since I am a bit hyper, I wanted to start RO-ing just to mix things up a bit on downtime, plus get better on rules. Did NROI first, and it was really strait forward. The requirements and a list of dates and locations of classes were on the NROI site, took the class, passed the test, had a great time. Knowledgeable instructor, nice people, learned a lot, in general a very positive experience. IDPA next I thought. The local SOI is a super nice guy who has a lot going on in his life right now and isn't running any classes, so I emailed a couple of the other nearby SOIs. This is where it gets a bit odd. I start hearing all this talk about "mentorship" and "having a sponsor", and no real answer on classes. It seems a bit arbitrary and I am wondering if this is normal? I get it that there should be requirements, but it seems very opaque, especially compared to NROI. Why all the mystery and finger waggling? Or have I just happened onto some strange personality issues?
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I must just have bad luck, both times I have called Dillon about this problem the super rude guy that answered the phone just said it needed to be kept clean or I could order a new part. I got the extended bar from EBay and the priming works fine now. Well worth it for a lasting solution.
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Thanks for the info, I guess I'll be doing the same. The only guna I've ever found that I can reach the release on from a firing grip are my Kahrs. Too bad they don't make something with a 5" barrel :-).
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Can you reach the mag release without changing your grip?
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Thanks, it's hard to separate signal from noise on the internets so hearing from people who actually fire their guns is always helpful :-).
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Thanks for the info, it's odd that they publish this on their site for the standard M&Ps but not the Pro's. Care to weigh in on the many reports of accuracy issues with the M&P Pro 9 that one sees about the internets? I'm basically trying to decide between this and the Glock 34. I have freakishly short fingers, so I'm leaning towards the M&P, but all the posts about problems specific to this gun are a bit off-putting.
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That makes sense given that they are kind of competing products. I was looking for an actual measurement though, because I've seen two different ones at this point.
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Hello people. Can anyone here with an M&P pro in 9mm tell me the sight radius? For some reason this is stupidly hard to find for the pro, I've been searching for an hour and can't find it anywhere.
Thanks!
Apex production setup
in S&W (M&P, etc)
Posted
Referring to the comp kit, I've heard a lot of different theories about it and a lot of different "fixes". Some say its the stock trigger, some that it's "sear flutter", some that it goes away if you replace the trigger bar. Many will say that you're not letting the trigger reset, or you're limp writsting. Could be any of these, but in my case it never did it once in several thousand rounds and then did it every other match or so thereafter. No changes in technique or ammo, just the kit. So I don't think it's unreasonable to surmise that these things are connected, especially when Google will reveal many others with the same problem.
Again, I'm not saying that it's bad enough to not be worth it, just that it's not safe for defensive use and you should know about it going in. I'm not sorry that I did it, I would have for sure sold the gun by now if the apex trigger wasn't available. The stock trigger was that bad and it's great that you can do something about it.
All the above said, consider that by the time you buy the trigger kit and the barrel you're getting into the area where you could buy a decent gun made out of metal that you don't have to buy a bunch of janky aftermarket parts for to get working right. I know I've learned my lesson ?.