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Deavis

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  1. I was trying to avoid setting it up on a mill, I didn't think about belt sanding and stopping on the much harder vise steel.
  2. I'd like to cross-section a few brass casings and was wondering if anyone has a good technique that they can share. I was thinking about doing a wax encapsulation, cutting the block on a bandsaw, and then melting out the wax. Does anyone have a good method that doesn't require encapsulation and provides a good section? I've tried some freehand with a grinder and base grip in a vise but the results were pretty poor.
  3. I'm not really upset with the swage, it is great. I guess I could let the shellplate flex up slightly and avoid the sticking. I could probably turn down the die past the case mouth mark if it is significantly bigger. I didn't measure it yet.
  4. When my Super 1050 is set to remove crimp on 9mm brass, on the release from the die it always makes a noise (die sticking in neck). It only happens when I put the die down far enough to actually hold a military case in place (case mouth is above the mouth expansion line) and the shell plate is not forced up by the swage rod at the bottom of the cycle. I'm perfectly happy with the swage, it is just the pop on every stroke is a little annoying. I could back out the die slightly but then the shell plate flexes up during the swage operation, which I don't want. Just checking to see if anyone else experiences this with pistol ammo. I'm not specifically lubing the case necks, if that is the recommendation to reduce the adhesion between the die and the case neck. Hopefully I'm not alone on this one.
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