docscoutjr
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Posts posted by docscoutjr
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I have the tough decision to get my new open build done in DLC as part of my 'smiths package or take it bald and get it Cerkote'd
TTMA it. As I live in Canada this will a forever thing (assuming I am still allowed to keep it moving forward), so am torn between a super fancy colour scheme or the more durable DLC.
Thanks,
DL
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Cool, thanks!
I run 55PWC, PDF, and 10ED.
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Hey all,
Anyone running Pilla glasses (love them for trap), but am looking for any intel on what (of their vast array) of lenses anyone is using for IPSC.
Thanks,
DL
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I have had an Alpha 2 in 6moa for almost a year now, really liked it, but was indoors mostly.
Finally (after 2 months in lockdown), got out to an outdoor range. Noticed the 6moa on the Alpha 2 was "ok", but I would prefer brighter/bigger. So as something to keep my spirits up (I lost over 20k in gun value when the Canadian government announced its ban on "assault type" rifles), I ordered an 8moa Alpha 3. OMG!!!! LOVE IT. Worth every penny and perfect for outdoors.
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So, for whatever reasons you can only have 10. What are you using/works best. Particularly interested in STI/SVI double stack 140's and 170's.
I had forever been using Arredondo, but mostly through attrition, I need to replace.
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13 hours ago, B_Seehawer said:
Use 222 purple Loctite, it’s for smaller fasteners. It’s a lower strength than blue.
Hu...in all my years haven't see it. Then again wasn't looking. Thank you!
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19 hours ago, Hooked said:
I use a couple of drops of Vibra Tite VC3 on the set screws of my rackers. No issues of the set screws working loose and unlike blue loctite, the bond is reusable.
I use it for the screws holding my red dots to the mount as well.
Awesome stuff.
Ahhh...hadn't thought of that. Thanks!!
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Thanks for the input so far. Odd that my 'smith used a Brazos slide for my new build, but didn't mention the rackers. Might not have time to get that done for this season. In the meantime I am looking into an M4 torx head set screw as an alternative. You can torque then down a lot more than a regular hex and they don't strip half as easy. Stand by on that.
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Switched to a two sided mount on my open rig running the racker on the left side. Only problem now is keeping that dam little 6-32 set screw in place. Gave it a bit too much locktite (yes the blue kind) and that took way more effort to get it out than I would be able to handle at a match if needed. I have heard use a bit of finger nail polish? So what is everyone doing/using to keep their rackers in place? The detents seem interesting but not sure how far I trust them.
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On 12/10/2019 at 8:30 AM, andersonj55126 said:
I am running one of these too, after a long hard battle with myself over loosing the side-more. A key factor was the mounting plate and it seemed to me like there were more options in the RTS pattern than others AND I wasn't interested in $800 optics. The FTP (so far, knock on wood) has been solid. I figured if these guys can source/make tricky parts for cars, why not trust them to make a decent optic.
Also consider the FTP Shooting Sports optic. It is basically an updated RTS2 with an bigger window, much nicer buttons and 8moa. It is also brighter and has more available brightness settings.
The new Sigs are also very nice but expensive and made by the same place that make RTS2 and FTP.
I have used the DPP for years but am switching away from them this offseason.
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13 hours ago, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: Things to check are that the grip screws are tight. The locking lugs are clean. The comp is not touching the slide. The bullets are not touching the comp. The comp is tight on the barrel. The scope mount is tight. The dot on the scope mount is tight. Lots of little things to check. Thanks, Eric
A'int my first rodeo. But thanks. Loose bits or ill-fitting parts would yield more random results. If I can replicate I will post because the grouping is quite amazing. A great learning experience in what I am actually doing/seeing.
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13 hours ago, gianmarko said:
the gun returning on target is a delicate equilibrium where many factors are at work. any change in any of these factors will disturb this equilibrium.
you are shooting a different pistol, you will need a few thousand rounds to get accustomed and eventually see an improvement.
thats why i stick to a gun and dont change anything unless i really have to.
every change brings costs in terms of stage time and ammo to shoot to get used to the differences, and gains are often illusory.
True this. That said I have enough practice and muscle memory that I can go from a 2011 9mm open to a 1911 .38 super open with relative ease other than reloads. Two very different platforms, but could adapt. So with the new gun I was expecting different, but not that different.....but apparently it is. And indeed I have at least 2k ahead of me to get things dialled in.
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Have old (maybe 8 years) Ghost holster and a new Cheely E2 that doesn't quite fit. Love the Ghost, would like to keep using it. Any suggestions/experience on fitting?
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Simple, in my house "better to have it and not need it" .....if you can afford it.
By backup is a 25 year old single stack super, because I can't afford to have 15k tied up in two fancy 2011's.
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Just got a my completely rebuilt 2011, Cheely E2 steel, KKM hybrid, two holes, three chamber two port comp. 9mm/124's 7.3 of Silhouette (what I had on hand). Amazingly accurate! Everything is running great, try some doubles.
Seem fast/faster but...it was like I was shooting two separate groups, literally. First shot group was exactly where it should be, nice little 3 inch circle at 7m then second shot group was about 4 inches high and a tad right, nice little 3 inch circle. Now clearly I am pulling the trigger faster than the dot is coming back, but on previous guns even going full out, not seeing the dot, I wasn't getting consistent groups of first shot, second shot. And the fact that I did this for about 80 rounds consistently was weird. A Bill drill yielded my typical pattern which is a random group in the A zone, no wild ones in the C or D. So what is going on? Recoil spring comes to mind, but I have been shooting 7-8lbs for the last 5-6 years. New grip/weight, yes possibly. For sure different recoil than with a plastic grip so maybe just have to get that figured. In 30 years of shooting fast I have never felt this. Usually if I pick something up and try and shoot fast doubles they are at worst all over the target, at best a big circle. I have never experienced two separate groups when shooting doubles. Any thoughts?
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I have to say I am at the point where I am ordering replacement parts for my slide rides. I have one that is easily 15 years old and still going. C-more has been SUPER nice btw, like really nice. Great question as to why c-more can't make a "compact" serendipity style scope, and one that doesn't eat batteries and uses less expensive ones. My trijicon RMR was on in my safer for a month, still going strong and bright (guess what they say is true).
As always, thanks for your feedback.
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So in discussing my new top end with my gunsmith he said "and what about this thing hanging off the side", I thought he meant my flat thumb rest, but he was referring to my side mount c-more. I started out like most people with the traditional vertical mount and HATED it because of the holdover/under issues and then went with a Quinn 90 and was happy as a clam. But now I do like the idea of a less obstructed view on the left side and overall cleaner set up of a RTS2 type sight. For those who have made the transition has it been worth it?
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On 9/21/2019 at 4:45 PM, zzt said:
FWIW, I buy my brass from Ammobrass in 6,000 case lots. They are resized and decapped, primer pocket swaged, roll sized, cleaned in SS media, dried and lightly waxed.
https://www.ammobrass.com/product-page/9mm-fully-processed-reloading-brass
They look better than that in person.
About what i would expect in USD.
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On 9/21/2019 at 8:54 AM, BigBamBoo said:
If you do mind sharing, where do you buy your brass?
Well I am in Canada so likely not helpful, we have a place called Black Sheep Brass, probably the best overall and honestly the brass is "as new".
Now don't go saying $60 USD that's a bargain! Coz he might see it and raise his prices....
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What I like best about 9mm is that I can get processes brass (roller sized, polished, primer pockets done) for $40-$60/1000 that just whistles through a 650, its amazing how smooth it is when you can skip the sizing station. With processed brass, a fully reamed chamber and a tuned extractor my 9 ran 100% with everything from factory to major.
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10 hours ago, Whitefish said:
Not as odd as you might think. I am part of that minority as well. My nine major 2011 has a Brazos Thundercomp 2 comp/no holes and does just fine with the dot returning. I have found that the load and grip is every bit as important in where the dot goes. My Dawson 38 SC shorty has two barrel holes and with N105 and 3N38 powders makes a lot more noise and blast, plus a great light show. Yes, it is marginally flatter shooting, but you pay for it. The good part of that is that it generally keeps RO's and specttors well back from me. If the RO is close when I start, you can rest assured he isn't after that first shot!!!
For new RO's especially there is something to be said for putting on a show, and keeping them back. Thanks!
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14 hours ago, zzt said:
It depends on how you want the gun to feel. Poppels make the gun shoot flatter, but rob gas from the comp. So it hits your hand harder. You can add more powder to get more gas to the comp, but you have limited case capacity in 9mm.
If you insist on using 3N38 in 9mm major, I would go without poppels. You will most likely be stuck using 124s, so you won't be making a lot of gas. If you go to slower, denser powders that actually are compressible (like AA7 and Major Pistol), you have more options. With 9mm major you can make it shoot flat, or soft, but not both. You can compromise on something in between.
FWIW, my latest Open gun wears a custom 3-port comp and two 3/16" poppels. I load 10.2gr Major Pistol powder under a 115 JHP @ 1.161" OAL. That gets me 168PF with an SD of 4. I have injuries that prevent me from gripping the gun hard, so the muzzle rises a little. When my buddy, a welder, shoots it, it is dead flat.
Also very helpful. Thanks!
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16 hours ago, racer-x said:
My full size CK guns have 3 x 3/16" popples in the KKM barrel and Chaos has 2x 3/16" popples in shorter barrel.
170PF loads for them are:
9.3 grains 3N38 for MG124JHP @ 1.185 OAL with CCI-500
170PF 115's not happening with 3N38
Up
I like how this 3N38 load performs in these guns and its very clean.
I had a lot of 3N38 sitting around left over from my 38SC guns. Did some experimenting a few months ago and came up with a load that shoots nice, makes PF and isn't much trouble to load. I start having problems with MBF at 9.4 grain charge (5% of bullets falling over from case so full), but 9.2 charge loads easily with MBF... Actually better with MBF since it seats the bullet much more reliably than my fingers can with such a full case. I've loaded about 4000 of these so far at 9.3 grains - no problem.
Thanks! since I am in Canada and pretty much only shoot IPSC, 124's at 160pf are what I am after, so this confirms things a bit.
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For those shooting 9mm major, thoughts on hybrid barrels or poppel holes/v type porting?
I know its been kicked around here a bit, I need to give my 'smith an answer ASAP. Main question being how much of a PIA is it to try and stuff enough 3n38 in case to make it work.
Currently thinking a KKM hybrid with two holes.....or no holes at all.
Thanks,
DL
DLC vs. Cerkote
in Open Pistols
Posted
Thanks!!
Function vs. Fashion.