HadleyOwens
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Posts posted by HadleyOwens
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It's definitely big boy approved !! I've put it through several "stress tests" holds up well!
Hadley O.
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Make sure that your firing pin retention pin is not working free and contacting the receiver.
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Yes the conical spring goes under the backside of the bolt catch ... It should be on the rearward (stock side) of the latch... If you do the extractor spring setup then cut 2-3 coils off of one spring only... I would also order a replacement carrier dog spring guide to have on hand. This is the pin that the glock springs will surround.
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Let's see the video ... And stress analysis... With a lightened bolt and without .. Thanks ...
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So velocity and mass have no co relation? Maybe higher velocities with that much (factory) mass is the problem at hand. This is not a pissing contest guys..... I'm telling you that lightening a vmax bolt has only benefits and no drawbacks.... Find me a vmax with a receiver that has come apart with a lightened bolt an I'll stop lightening bolts ....
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Whoa man ... Extra scratch ? That was a low blow man....lol!! Honestly Mark, I have spoken with a few people at Remington who seem to think that it's perfectly ok to lighten the bolt. Of course as soon as any of us builders take one apart and start cutting on it warranty is out the window anyways... I have not seen any catastrophes in relation to lightening the bolt on a vmax.. None whatsoever .. So I guess making some extra scratch lightening a bolt is ok since the majority of builders do it.... C'mon man ...
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One would think that by taking off 2oz. of weight in a reciprocating part that felt recoil would be mitigated slightly. It does reduce recoil, while not making a giant difference in recoil it can still be felt. If the action cycles as fast and has hard as you guys are saying the amount of weight lost would benefit longevity of the receiver and bolt face/lock. A heavier hammer always does more damage than a lighter one. I lighten the bolt on every vmax I build. I used to just lighten them and recoat but, I've realized its a nice little place for my logo as well !! I'm sure that remingtons engineers have a better database to pull from than me but, my guess as to why they leave the bolt so heavy is to maybe slow down on unlock time and give the gas system a touch more dwell. Either way a Vmax will cycle anything with a lightened bolt....all day every day.
Hadley O.
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The Nordic lifter has a lip on it that protrudes out into the path of the lifter even a stock non welded one. I just chuck a Nordic lifter into the lathe and cut it to fit in the stock slp lifters place..
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The entrance into the magtube with those guns (FNH included) is very sharp. It needs chamfering all the way around, just a touch up with a high grit cratex bit should do the trick. Polishing the shell catch does wonders as well!!
Hadley O.
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I happened to get one of the last ones that Nordic made for the sx2 platform weapons... I just take a factory Nordic follower and cut it in a lathe to match.
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Crucible Armament builds a killer Vmax!
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I put fireclean in all of the vmaxs I build. Bolt, gas pistons, mag tube, recoil spring and in the trigger assembly. It's the best stuff I've found!!
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You have to make sure that the carrier dog pin that guides the spring doesnt get out of shape. I always keep a new one around to compare to those that come into the shop for work. It's also worth noting that I have seen the attachment pin that holds the transfer lever onto the lifter gets worn and causes issues as well. Couple all these with a dirty gun and you get multiple malfunctions on a given day.
Hadley O.
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Use 2 glock extractor springs with 2-3 coils cut off of one spring for your carrier dog "lifter" spring. Works like a champ and lasts longer that the factory FN offering. Browning gold recoil spring works well and adds consistency between ammo. Get that piston sealed up as well.
Hadley O.
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He's (KP) is working on them....he should have them ready soon. The quality and consistency will be the same as the 12ga offerings.
Hadley O.
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Carrier dog spring is bad, you need to use two glock extractor springs in place, take one of the springs and cut 2-3 coils off of it. It will last way longer than the factory spring. Also make sure that your carried dog spring wire isn't bent out of shape or starting to flatten out. When that thing breaks in match you will have hella problems!!
Hadley O.
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I'm a big guy so I have tons of real estate to pack shells on. With that being said I'm a little rough on gear, more so than most. The IP caddies have been big boy prone tested many times without a single failure. The straight 8 IMHO is the only shell caddy on the market that stacks the shells super close together but, still allows for load two or quads from multiple positions. When you really get to the meat of versatile shell caddies with endless amounts of adjustability IP has it. They may not be as easy a pull in regards to shell tension as the AP, CA or Taccom but they have them all beat in retention and adjustability. This is a game played while on the move, not standing still in front of a camera trying to break the sound barrier loading shells, adjustability and retention is where its at !! IPFTW !!
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I have a 1-6.5 SFP BTR-2 for sale in the classifieds...lol. Great little scope, just changing things up this year.
H. Owens
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Forearm work is where the difference is made...you might need to alter the angle that you drop the shells or even thumb placement on the first shells going in the tube.
H.Owens
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Invictus Practical has the best bang for the buck in kit out right now. More options and completely flexible for any shooting style. I've been running them for several months now.
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Definitely an awesome product!! I know Kevin personally and have shot with him alot. There is not a single person out there who thinks things out like he does. Solid product !! It's also big boy prone tested and approved !! Stay tuned for some of his newer products coming out !
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I would replace the firing pin spring with one from an M2. We had a similar issue with one and the spring was found to be too strong combatting the force of the hammer when fired. Hope this helps.
Hadley O.
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You can do a little trimming and polishing on the engagement surfaces and reduce spring power as well...you will also need to figure out how to harden the hammer so it doesnt mushroom or wear out the engagment shelves. You have to be careful reducing spring power and cutting the hammer too much. If you get crazy with it you will end up with a runaway !! Adjusting the reset distance is next to impossible unless you design another sear and disconnect set.
Hadley O.
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My 1301 with a +6 nordic, 24"barrel.
shot just a few slugs after work at 25 and 75 yards, IM choke
Shot some win light 1145 at plates, recoil about the same as my 930 but the gun is lighter.
can't wait to shoot the FNH match with it.
How long have you had that Nordic tube on there? I notice it doesnt have a recessed area for a clamp on it.
Thanks, Hadley O.
Versamax slug POI
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
I've sent barrels out for cryo treatment in the past. Works like a charm and you don't have to bend them or wack them against a tree. I would also recommend shooting slugs from a rest instead of offhand or leaning on a benchtop. This way you remove the majority of human error from the equation. Trigger job is a good start though after you've patterned.
-H.Owens