Ten-X
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Posts posted by Ten-X
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How does it group. If it’s shooting 4” or less, you may not see much practical benefit on the clock. If it’s less than 3” then you definitely don’t need one. If it’s worse than 6” then go for it.
One of my stock 1.0s shot 8” groups with factory ball. Apex dropped those groups to 4”.
High quality reloads with Hornady bullets printed about 5”. Apex took those to 2”.
I also have a 1.0 that is a consistent 5” gun and I have not put the money into changing that bbl.
i just got a great Christmas deal on a shield and it printed a 2” group with those hornady XTP reloads with stock bbl.
BTW - all groups shot at 25 yds.
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Keep your cheek down on the shotgun. Oh snap. This is a rifle post. Still good advice...
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Any comments about Nordic?
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The trigger parts will drop in. But the assembly has some differences, the lifter for sure and maybe some other parts. But the trigger and hammer are interchangeable for sure.
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On 5/11/2017 at 2:01 PM, bushmeat said:
I like my Larue lightweight barrel. However, if you're going to run a skinny, pencil profile be advised you might need a .625 gas block and you might want to run a brake that doesn't have top ports.
Curious. What is it about top ports?
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I love the apex products. My advice is don't worry too much about weight. They pull in the 4-5# range but the feel is awesome.
I think they roll back so smoothly. Not a glass rod single action break but very easy to shoot.
I don't mind the production versions (keeping the stock articulating trigger). If you have big hands and struggle to get your trigger finger to pull straight to the rear, the FSS (forward set sear) triggers put your finger in a much different position. I like them, but I don't think it's a game changer. It's all about finger placement. YMMV.
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That happened with mine too. And only about 150 rounds on it.
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Blade Tech makes a holster with an open front that would be good. I don't think that it's much faster or slower than the one with the closed front. IMO
link: http://shop.blade-tech.com/index.php?cPath=1_2_120#.WLYwyjxOKEc
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I've tried a Burris dovetail mount. Cheap and easy but only works with Burris.
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I tried my own on a stock sear. Was amazing for day 1. On day 2 it started doubling. Any advice on what I did wrong???
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I'm a big fan of Ready Tactical too. They are one piece of kydex shaped to give retention and a belt clip/paddle with no seams, screws or joints of any kind. Very creative. But they carry close to the body. I shoot mostly 3 gun and I keep two on my belt for the whole day since they take up so little belt space. Then I add in two blade techs in the front of my belt for stages with more pistol. Would work equally well in uspsa.
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Any feedback on the accuracy difference between the gunsmith fit and the semi-drop-in? I want the most accuracy I can get but I want to retain some amount of robustness. I have one lower with a stock trigger and one with an apex forward set and I would like to be able to interchange the uppers (one irons and one core) to shoot different matches - carry optics requires the stock trigger I believe.
So my specific question is would a semi-drop in be a better option for reliability on multiple lowers??? And what accuracy are you getting out of a semi-drop in?
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AK. What safety lever is that?
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Does springer have base pads for scorpion. Just checked their websites and didn't see them. Link?
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Two reasons not to mount higher than necessary:
1. The farther the sight plane is from the bore plane, the more parallax error you have. The bigger this error is, the harder it is to compute when changing the distance being shot; and the bigger the error that will result if you figure the distance or computation wrong.
2. The farther the scope is mounted from the recoil axis, the more torque and acceleration it experiences. The closer you mount the scope to the bore, the longer it will last.
The only good reason to mount higher than necessary is to bring the scope into proper alignment with your eye. Luckily this is usually not a problem, most people need to add cheek risers/rests to raise their eye to meet the scope.
The second point is not correct. Recoil is a linear impulse. There is no moment arm created by recoil to cause torque on the scope. The minimal moment arm caused by the stock drop that causes the barrel to rise is not going to put any meaningful force on a scope.
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I serrated the stock front and rear sights. They look awesome. Doesn't help with poi problem but it gives that sharp sight picture.
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Crazy news. A friend was on the hunt for one and found one at Acadamy. Priced great too. I shot it and was really impressed. I like it better than my M&P's but I'm in too deep with the platform to switch over. But if I was starting over, it's a winner.
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I love shooting irons and I agree with all this except the zero and the bullet weight.
20 in barrel with front sight mounted behind the comp
Skinny front post. I mean anorexic - banned in France - skinny.
Same plane rear aperture
Lighter bullets going fast with flatter trajectory (bullet flight visually stays closer to the front sight)
300 yard or even meter zero (that way the vast majority of targets will sit above the front sight)
I love the idea of the flatter trajectory but I shot a lot of matches with knock down LaRue poppers and they sometimes won't fall with lighter bullets so I have a 77 SMK load that is tight. And I tried a 300 yard zero but struggled on the hold-unders. I think that's unusual but when I switched to a 200 yard zero I had great improvement. If you know your holdovers, and the long range targets have frames or something to reference off of, they are not that hard to hit.
As others have said. Irons, with a long sight radius and a tiny aiming point, are very easy and instinctive to line up. No worry about eye position (if the sights are aligned, you are looking straight through them). But you have to be able to see the target, and fairly well. Contrasting targets with crisp irons are super fun to shoot.
Also, I messed quite a bit with the rear sight aperture to find one that gives the crispest picture that is not too dark to shoot in varied light. The NM guys use interchangeable apertures but those hooded jobs are not good for 3 gun. You need a same plane with a big peep for up close and a tiny peep for long. Too tiny and it's fuzzy and looks like there is a spider web in it. Too big and you lose crispness of the front sight.
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For the shotgun I don't think you give much up by running a pump. The supernova is a beautiful shotgun to run. If you shoot 3 Gun nation close stages and classifiers it will be a disadvantage to pump - short and fast stages. If you like the bigger outlaw matches it doesnt hurt much at all on a 40-60 sec stage to shuck the pump.
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I have an SRS and a micro. Love them both but I love the field of view of the SRS more. That said, I shoot irons in 3 gun - it is just too much more fun. If I was going to switch to a non-magnified, just for competition it would be the priz. But between the SRS and the micro, I like the SRS more. It is heavier on a scale but I can't really feel it on the rifle.
Like others, I say shoot what you got.
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I have been using the Hiperfire 24C and I love it. I like the short break and fast reset of a single stage and the break is amazing for precision and speed both. Can't go wrong. They are new but are gathering a solid reputation and my experience is that they are the best of the best. I switched from a Timney. No comparison. The Hiperfire is far superior. (And I liked the Timney before I switched). I used to have the Timney in a backup gun and would let people try them both. 100% like the Hiperfire more and overwhelmingly so. The backup gun now has a Hiperfire too.
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is the only difference between the C and E the shape of the trigger?
I dont feel any difference in the two myself as far as pull and reset (with the same color springs of course)
Yes, I think that is right.
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I agree. I just got one with the trigger shoe and I Love it. Wasn't sure if the shoe would feel strange. It feels awesome. Easy to get right on the same spot on the trigger every time.
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That is awesome news on your JP rifle. I did a build through feb and march and it was a struggle to find the parts but I'm glad that I didn't compromise and waited to find exactly what I wanted. I got lucky on a barrel from Bravo Company (was sold out 5 mins later) and a Fail Zero bolt from here on enos. I already had the upper and lower recievers so that was a relief. If you want something specific, I would encourage you to patiently hunt for what you want.
Shield upgrades
in S&W (M&P, etc)
Posted
Just got one for a great price at Christmas. Took it to the range for a zero check. The sights were about a foot off so needed to drift the front (which was not centered). After centering the sights, I was seriously impressed. Shot 2 groups at 25 yds off a rest. Hornady Critical Duty 135gr shot about 4” and my 147gr XTP handloads shot less than 2”.
Trigger is is hard but crisp. Very impressed.