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inkballedtarget

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Posts posted by inkballedtarget

  1. 9 hours ago, Silverscooby27 said:

    I exchanged the 336 ejector for the 30274 ejector, and the gun runs 100%, took about 5 minutes to change, no brass impacting a vortex viper on a milled slide.

    The 30274 is what came on my gen 4 34 and still had ejection issues. I purchased an apex to try, they recommend to use the 30274 with their extractor.

  2. 20 hours ago, Yondering said:

    Clays works great for 125gr and lighter 9mm. It's a bit fast burning for heavier bullets, but does a great job with the lighter stuff, especially with lead bullets. It does a great job of filling the case too, so overcharges are immediately obvious unlike some other common powders like Titegroup.

     

    The load data posted above is not even at +P levels; it's perfectly safe in a Glock. I load tons of this stuff and have done a lot of experimenting with pushing the limits; what you're wanting to do is well within the limits and wouldn't concern me in the slightest. Load up some ammo and rock on. 

    Thanks for the info and vote of confidence. I have loaded a couple of thousand and it shows no pressure signs, and they felt good. What are you seeing as far as temp sensitivity? If i load 131 PF at 80-90 degrees (which is 3/4 of the weather we have in West Tx) will I have issues at lower temps?

  3. On 10/7/2019 at 10:46 PM, MemphisMechanic said:

     

    Gen 3-4... or Gen 5?

     

    In a 3rd or 4th gen, anything that will fit in the magazine (which typically  limited you to 1.150-1.160”) would fall into the chamber with room to spare.

     

    5th generation guns are much much less generous.

     

    These would be for a Gen 4 G34. I think my current load load is 1.13 OAL.

  4.  

    On 10/7/2019 at 11:32 PM, Yondering said:

     

    The 752-20 Mitutoyo (for ~$165) are what I use for machining, but the functional difference between those and the $90 196-30 model I linked above is mainly the water/coolant/oil resistance which isn't a big deal for reloading, so I recommended the cheaper of those two. The other difference is the 752-20 model turns on when you move the scale (rather than pushing a button) and is auto-off; kind of nice but not worth the price difference IMO. 

     

    Both are very good quality.

     

    Someone above commented on not losing zero if you drop them - that's one very good reason to go with digital calipers rather than dial calipers. As a machinist, I've dropped my share of dial calipers, and it usually kills them. Digital calipers are much more tolerant of being dropped, even the cheap models, but the quality difference of something like that $90 Mitutoyo is worth it if you can afford it IMO. With that said, if a guy has to go cheap, you can still do well with a $30-$50 set if you shop carefully, just recognize it's a quality difference of Lee vs Dillon. 

    I will defer to your expertise as I am no machinist. Based on what you have said and if i had it to over again i would go with the 196-30. 

  5. 22 hours ago, tha1000 said:

     

     

    That's like $14 worth of brass... don't get in too much trouble.

    You are correct.

     

    22 hours ago, tha1000 said:

    I've pretty much got to the point where outside of specific trigger control dry fire drills , i am only prepping the trigger to the wall in my dry fire.  I am not doing multi shot drills.  

    There is something to be said for prepping the trigger and focusing on the sights. 

     

    17 hours ago, dg370 said:


    You have to rack the slide to reset the trigger.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    Good deal, thanks for the info.

  6. 22 hours ago, beta1759 said:

    IF you were able to buy from Leupold directly, it would be at MSRP ($520). Which is more than the 'street price' of $399. 

    That does not sound like a great option.

     

     

    21 hours ago, af_tt said:

    Are you military/police/veteran?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     

    No sir.  Those men and women should get all of the discounts. 

  7. 4 minutes ago, Rnlinebacker said:

    definitely magazine first and then the barrel

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
     

    Do you know what the max OAL you can get in a G17/34 mag? And if it clears the feed lip at the top are you good, or can you experience issues in the mag body even if it clears the feed lip?

  8. On 10/4/2019 at 2:13 PM, Steve RA said:

    I use Clays (Australian) in 9mm  with 125gr coated or 130gr LSWC with 3.2 grs and in .45 ACP with 4.2grs and 200gr LSWC or coated.  Those make minor in 9mm and major in .45.  Use SRMP with these and have no pressure signs.

     

    Thanks for the feed back. What gun are you running the 9mm out of, and what OAL are using?  

     

    On 10/6/2019 at 1:18 PM, Stickman301 said:

    I load 3.0gr Clays with Blue Bullet 147gr FN at 1.145”. 131PF out of my X5. Soft and clean.

    Thanks for the information. I have debated between the 125 and the 147 gn. Do you have a specific preference to the FN v. RN, or is that just how the 147 Blue comes? I think they make a 125 gn TC and RN, not sure about the 147. 

  9. On 10/4/2019 at 2:10 PM, Rnlinebacker said:

    so if I were loading Clay's I'd load as long as my barrel plunks hopefully around 1.160 and load 3.5 then chrono. maybe even the 3.3 makes minor comfortably out of your barrel. Make a batch of 3.3, 3.4, 3.5 and chrono to be certain

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
     

    Thanks for this info. In a G34 is the barrel or magazine the limiting factor on length? 

  10. The Labradar is certainly nice and it seems to be more consistent since it is not affected by the lighting conditions. We are also seeing them more and more at major matches. It only takes going minor or subminor at one match to make the Labradar a good insurance policy.  

     

    For calipers I have been using these for a few years now, Mitutoyo 500-752-10 Digital Calipers - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SG7PHK/ref=tnp_emaildp_1

    These say they are currently unavailable, but it looks like they may have a newer model or something slightly different - Mitutoyo 500-752-20.

     

    There are a bunch of options out there, this is just what I use.

  11. 1 minute ago, Amerflyer48 said:

    You could trim the rim on a .38 Super a bit also but SC would be an easier donor I believe

     

    I am not exactly mechanically inclined, I try to apply KISS whenever possible. SC it is.

  12. 25 minutes ago, Amerflyer48 said:

    It is a bit of trial and error to get it “just right” but it isn’t too critical, I guess you could measure your cardboard and add 19mm to the measurement from barrel hood to chamber mouth. 

    I just trimmed until it worked then seated an old spare BBI head I had (my match ammo is a Falcon coated red bullet) and drilled and sharpie marked to make it as “unique” as possible to avoid confusion with a possible live round 

      Sorry for earlier confusion Paul49 

     

    Ill rob a few pieces of SC from my wife and give it a go. Sounds like it could be the way to go. 

  13. On 10/5/2019 at 5:52 PM, dg370 said:

    I’m using Lyman A-Zoom striker caps. Rack it to reset trigger with no issues.
    a10f36352268acf6758d44b3b40e65d0.jpg


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

     

    Does the striker cap allow you to pull the trigger multiple times? 

  14. On 10/4/2019 at 2:45 PM, Amerflyer48 said:

    I just cut a .38SuperComp brass down to 9x20.5 or so and made a dummy round (sharpie marked and drilled casebody) with a spare projectile easier than cardboard  I just have a stock trigger though. 

     

     

    This is a great idea! Thanks for the tip. I would think it would work with most Glock triggers, especially the ones using OEM trigger bars. Thanks for the pro tip.

  15. On 9/28/2019 at 8:04 PM, Helios said:

    I have an Apex in my gen 4 34 and it behaves just like any other trigger with something stuck in the breach face. 

    Thanks for this. For whatever reason a piece of cardboard worked a little better than the folded paper, it took less finesse to get the trigger to actuate.

  16. I have a bunch of H Clays sitting on the shelf and was curious what the consensus is on using it for a 9 minor load with 125 gn coated bullets?  I know some guys use it, and some advise against it, but I haven't seen anything posted recently. Has anything changed?

     

    It would be used in a G34.

     

    Thanks 

  17. 14 minutes ago, Barcode1337 said:

    I've never liked the sticking something in the breech thing. Hate how it feels. If you just want to yank the trigger, I strongly recommend one of those Glock E-Trainer things. Gives a full range of pull, just no break. I love it for practicing anything besides a draw and click. And it's fairly cheap at 20-30ish.

    It is certainly not a perfect solution, but it gets you something. Thanks for the tip, Ill check those out. 

  18. I just installed an Apex trigger in my G34 today. In dry fire tonight, I noticed that the trigger did not actuate like the stock trigger does with the paper fold in the breech. It's not as responsive and doesn't move freely. 

     

    Has anybody had luck using the Apex in dry fire? I may need to try one of those trigger resetting practice mags. 

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