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dukeguy

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Posts posted by dukeguy

  1. I'm pretty sure your lack of pretravel is the issue, try racking the slide, then pushing forward on the trigger, I'll bet it resets.

    After watching the video, I completely agree. Sear is catching the hammer but because of the restricted pretravel the trigger bar is not popping up to re-engaging the sear leg. When you pull the hammer back annually it actually pushes up ever so slightly on the sear rotating the leg just enough to clear the trigger bar. Don't take this as an insult but are you sure you are turning the right screw for pretravel, and turning it the right way? I'd be curious to see the sear cage assembly from the bottom, maybe there is a burr or something if you're sure about the pretravel spring...

    I just tried something else. Racked the slide/hammer, then removed the slide. Pulled the hammer while looking up under the sear cage. The trigger bar pupped up when I pulled the hammer back. Took the trigger out and adjusted the pretravel screw completely down, effectively putting as much pretravel into play as possible. That did it. I guess I just had not taken enough pretravel out.

    I guess the pretravel screw crept out during shooting.

    Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this!

    P.S. Nothing is an insult when you're trying to diagnose from a distance.

  2. If its an unmodified pre-travel screw then that is not abnormal. They grind the face at an angle, making it useless.

    Rack the slide with the trigger pulled all the way back and tell us if the sear catches then or what happens.

    No. It does not reset. I still have to pull the hammer after it has been racked. There is a slight click and it will fire then. I have a video, but haven't been able to figure out how to upload it to my replies.

  3. Could your trigger pre travel be set to short and it is not allowing the sear to engage fully with the hammer? It could catch enough to hold on when manually cocking the hammer, but in the act of racking the slide or firing, the sear just slips off the main hammer hooks to the half cock hook.

    I don't know. I'll play with it and see what happens and let you know.

  4. My Witness Match 9mm has developed an "issue." When firing, the slide is not racking the hammer all the way into a fully cocked position. Even when I rack the slide by hand it will not push the hammer into a fully cocked position. It's almost like it's in a half-cock position and it has to be pulled back until it clicks into full lock.

    Hammer issue? Sear issue? Springs?

    Thoughts and suggestions will be appreciated!

  5. Well, the verdict is in. The Henning trigger will not fit in the Witness PS. As you can see in the pics, I got the trigger attached to the trigger bar without much difficulty. But when it is placed into the cage there isn't enough clearance for the trigger return spring. As you can see, it pushes the trigger forward and the trigger can't be pulled to the rear. I can't see any way to make this work.

    post-32788-0-76482800-1425729501_thumb.j

    post-32788-0-97602500-1425729521_thumb.j

  6. PS: dukeguy- Which pistolsmith did you contact? There are a few with really good reps and the people on this forum can help steer you to another who may be more interested in taking on this work, if you decide not to do it yourself and still want it done. Good luck.

    Rich at Canyon Creek.

  7. I think they mean the trigger pin bolt may work its way out of the trigger if not held in place somehow. And unless you have to have flat trigger, "Your stiff trigger doesn't have much to do with the trigger itself. Its all about the right springs and polishing..." And where to polish and which springs to use are all discussed here for the steel framed models and I would bet a lot of that information will transfer over to the polymer framed pistols. Some of the do-it-yourself types here can help you find these threads, if you have any trouble.

    PS: dukeguy- Which pistolsmith did you contact? There are a few with really good reps and the people on this forum can help steer you to another who may be more interested in taking on this work, if you decide not to do it yourself and still want it done. Good luck.

    Yeah, I know the trigger itself doesn't have anything to do with the pull weight and stiffness. I just like that flat trigger!

    As for polishing things and clipping springs, I can't seem to find anything in the forum about this. I've searched under every topic I could think of. So if anyone knows where those threads are, please shoot me a link!

    Thanks!

  8. Just remove the small roll pin and push the trigger block and trigger up out of the frame, install the flat trigger with Hennings pin but cut the head of the pin and trim it to the width of the block, then reinstall the block and new trigger

    That seems like a bad idea, since that pin holds the block in place.....

    Nealio,

    On this model the trigger pin does not hold the block in place, a small roll pin does. If you'll look at the pic you'll see it just in front of the trigger. The trigger pin is inside and rests in 2 slots in the block. It threads through and holds the trigger spring. I think it is possible to trim down the Henning pin and slide it into those slots.

    post-32788-0-24736700-1425490805_thumb.j

    post-32788-0-13181300-1425490832_thumb.j

  9. Just remove the small roll pin and push the trigger block and trigger up out of the frame, install the flat trigger with Hennings pin but cut the head of the pin and trim it to the width of the block, then reinstall the block and new trigger.

    If you don't mind my asking, have you done this or seen it done?

  10. Buehler... Buehler?

    Sorry, I've been sick. Last thing on my mind for the last 2 weeks.

    So, I received the PS and a trigger from Henning. As of now I see no way to make this work. Drilling the holes as we've discussed will not position the trigger properly.

    I contacted a gunsmith who is supposed to be one of the best with Witness pistols, but he said he wasn't interested in developing a trigger job for this model.

    So unless anybody has further suggestions I've got a small frame Witness that I really like the feel of...really like the accuracy...but has a really stiff trigger.

    P.S. Just so you know, Henning's trigger pin is way too short to go through the polymer version.

  11. There is a hole on each side of the polymer frame, but they're very hard to see because they're covered by plastic plugs. Your picture shows the plug. Good luck.

    Yeah, we saw that too. But if I drill through it will the trigger pin be long enough? There is no indentation for the nut like on a Witness Match.

    Questions, questions...

  12. Actually, I did get to speak to Henning today. (Talking about customer service!) I just got the PS yesterday so I wasn't that familiar with the gun. But it does offer some unique challenges in adapting the flat trigger system.

    Take a look at the pic. The first thing you'll notice is that there is no hole for the trigger pin. That means I either have to drill out a hole on each side of the frame, or adopt the Henning trigger pin to work inside the "block" that holds the trigger, and is held in place by the small roll pin just in front of the trigger assembly.

    (Sorry, but I don't know why the pic is upside down.)

    post-32788-0-44658200-1424485136_thumb.j

  13. Got this email from a nice lady at Blade-tech tonight:

    Hello dukeguy,

    Yes, this should fit our holster made for the POLYMER FULLSIZE. Below is a link to the OWB holster which we can make for this. If you would like to order you can either do so online or over the phone at 1-877-331-5793. Any of our customer service reps will be able to assist you.

    Thank you

    Tara Clarkson

    Customer Service Manager

    BLADE-TECH™

    The Link: http://shop.blade-tech.com/index.php?cPath=1_23_24&osCsid=unc3b22m390mc8se5epqh8ub51#.VOPmj7DF975

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