dravz
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Posts posted by dravz
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Hey Tony...if our ROs don't give the right command, correct them with the correct command "Oh...do you mean Are you ready?" and keep going. Maybe a good topic for John to brief during rule book review.
No no, Mark, I was asking because I'm pretty sure *I* have been incorrectly saying "Shooter ready," not because someone else did.
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Simple rules question: after a shooter has made ready, what is the next given command?
I have heard both a hundred times but which command is the official wording?
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Hell yeah!
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Grats, CHA-LEE, that's a big honor! I think you'll find it will still be pretty fun.
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Also, I have seen the same issue as the OP with a number of guys with SP-01's - fantastic Production gun here in NZ but maybe CZ should add a decocking lever!
It really gives me the heebie jeebies to watch those get decocked during LAMR. I know it's a mental thing but man it bugs me, lol.
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But if you want to really get better, use the reduced sized targets at the normal distances for full sized ones.
Like practicing for pool by playing snooker.
Agree completely.
The downside to using smaller-scale targets at closer distances is that your eyes do not get the practice of changing their focus at the full distances.
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Regardless which curriculum you choose, it's very important to set a practice schedule and stick to it. It needs to become a normal part of your life.
Many of your breakthroughs will come when you don't want to be practicing. Also, when it becomes normal to have the gun in your hand, that helps confidence a bunch.
This is very important. I hear SA saying that to me every time I'm feeling too tired, too crappy, too busy, or too anything when it's practice time. You have to do the work.
Also, no one ever mentions Shooting from Within but it is a fantastic book on shooting. No offense to Brian, but I found it a lot more accessible without all the warrior-monk-zen stuff.
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+1 on Matt Burkett's online timer. It's free!!
It's also nice because it'll keep playing over and over again without me having to push a button every time or whatever. It's all I use for my dry-fire par timer needs anymore.
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If you make a conscious choice between speed and accuracy you will always make the wrong choice.
(This constant speed vs. accuracy talk is starting to piss me off a little.)
It's almost like you need speed and accuracy. Crazy, right.
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Wolff springs have a larger outside (and inside) diameter than ISMI's, so they aren't compatible with the same guiderod.
Okay so I have a really dumb recoil spring question.
In my G34 I have the Wolff 14# recoil spring and Wolff steel guide rod, and sometimes when putting the slide back on the frame the spring gets caught in a weird way or like something doesn't go quite right and I have to do it again. Is this just the nature of the uncaptured spring or am I an idiot who's doing something wrong? I honestly don't get it.
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I went ahead and put a Gen4 ejector in my 34 to start testing. It's going to be one one part at a time until I find a working solution. I put maybe 50 rounds through it so far, and so far it ejected (even with some 115gr reloads it previously really hated). But that's not enough to be confident.
Any more testing with the Gen 4 ejector?
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Or not, since Sunday's match didn't go into the calculations...
My Saturday classifier didn't make it in either -- it was an 82%
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I've heard that same benchmark of transitions equal to splits, but what's the rationale? I'm sure there's more room to improve transitions than splits, and they're more important to your overall time, but is there any reason they should be about the same? Or is it just that many shooters over-emphasize fast splits and under-emphasize fast transitions, and this advice nudges their priorities in the right direction?
I think it's both, but imo it's just a matter of diminishing returns and time efficiency. For instance, a C-class shooter may have splits on a 30-ft target of .33 seconds, while a GM will hammer it in .15 seconds. However, the C-class shooter may take .66 seconds to transition onto that target, while the GM transitions in .20 seconds (or lower, honestly). So there is a lot more room for improvement by speeding your transitions (.46s gained), way more than speeding your splits (.18s gained). That's point one.
The second point is pretty much every M/GM (and even most A-class) will have the same splits on a given target/distance, usually like .12-.14s. At that level it is strictly the speed of target acquisition and transitions which will separate the field, because human beings cannot physically pull a trigger faster than about .12 seconds, but transition times can still come down from .25 to .22 to .18s.
Thirdly, if your splits are equal to your transitions, then it means you are functioning at 100% peak efficiency. Much like a maximized .12-second split is the limit on the speed of shots, if the gun is therefore on the next target and ready to shoot at the end of that .12 seconds it means there was no wasted time in the shooting whatsoever. At such a point, you have eliminated all waiting from your shooting (of an array), which is by definition the fastest you can go.
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I guess the difference is that music has an underlying tempo even while a solo is playing.
Shouldn't shooting be almost chaotic, doing each action as fast as possible, dictated only by the target placement and distances?
I would say the targets are your sheet music.
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I think the idea of basing your shooting speed off shot cadence is a poor approach to this.
Your speed should be dictated by how fast you can aim.
I used to shoot based on cadence for a very brief period, and then I realized that in say a 3-4 target array, I'd get almost all charlies, because trying to keep the cadence required for me to keep the gun moving instead of stopping and aiming at every A zone. I also felt that it slowed me down... since again, cadence dictated the speed, not aiming, and sometimes I could aim faster than my cadence.
Mike.
Cadence is just for practice. It is a way to force you into having a shot ready on the beat to improve your transition times. That's all.
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There was a post around here recently where a guy made dramatic improvements to his draw speed by focusing on his weak hand and making it move as fast as he could, leaving the strong hand and actual draw to his subconscious. I've actually taken this concept a step further, and all I think about on a stage is what my weak hand is doing. I make it move as fast as possible on the draw, I make sure it is squeezing like crazy in my grip, I make it grab a new mag as fast as possible, and so on. Someday I will have everything subconscious and won't need to do this, but for now it makes for a great mental distraction, allowing me to do everything else without thought.
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I have been looking for a good way to practice cadence with my SIRT. I can't believe I didn't think of a metronome app. I'm totally doing this.
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Imagine a stage where the first target is a 35yd popper. I would definitely align that target with my NPA at the beginning of a stage. In terms of maintaining a dynamic NPA... I think constantly shuffling your feet would be a horrible idea, but setting up in a position with your NPA adjusted for a hard target automatically wouldn't be so bad. I would be hesitant to put any brain power into it during my stage planning but would certainly not mind if it happened on its own.
I'm pretty sure Steel Challenge shooters do that kind of thing on purpose.
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He was the impetus for the TIps from the Grand Masters column.
You have a link? I'm not finding it.
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I’m still working on consistently bringing the sights back on the exact same spot where I started, and at speed. I think mine is a grip issue, but that’s another topic.
It was for me, or more specifically a grip neutrality issue.
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I started to notice that I was failing to seat my mags during live fire. Now I realize that this can be attributed to dry fire with empty mags.
I actually have noticed the opposite problem, which is why I don't worry about it -- namely, the tension and pressure of match time causes me to be more aggressive and forceful than I am in dry-fire. When I'm on the clock I slam those mags home like I hate them and their mother.
(I use a Glock in Production, so the weight difference isn't as marked as you guys are seeing in Limited fully-loaded.)
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When I dry fire I draw and do a correct trigger pull on the first target and any target after that I use a sight picture only. I shoot a Glock and for a while I would stick a piece of paper behind the barrel hood so I could keep pulling the trigger while dry firing without operating the slide. It caused some really bad habits with trigger control. I started slapping the trigger super fast during live fire and accuracy went out the window.
I had this exact same experience with Glock dry-fire and came to the same conclusion -- first shot click, sight pictures for the rest.
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Since no one has actually answered the OP's question...
The purpose behind PRACTICING with a cadence is to force you to control the gun to get back into the target and be able to see what you need to see to break the next shot - and to learn what that looks and feels like. This may involve shooting a single target at a specific cadence to work recoil control and trigger control aspects (it takes discipline to shoot a cadence with a specific timing and not just start hammering at the target). It might involve target transitions (for instance, three targets, shoot two at each target, but break each shot on a 1/2 or 1/4 second cadence). It might involve movement (typically with a longer cadence, depending on the drill).
It works because it forces you to have the gun back on target, lined up, trigger prepped exactly when the cadence beat arrives - this is a somewhat different kind of work from just driving the gun, and it develops the skill set from a different direction. As a practice tool, it's extremely useful. It also gives you a different and frequently more useful way to push on your transition times. It's not a tool you want to use a lot - it's powerful medicine, and as such should be taken in small doses...
Contrast that with how you approach shooting a stage at a match - you don't want to rely on a cadence at all, you want to see the sights and drive the gun based on sight picture (which is what everyone's saying above).
I know this is an old topic but thanks for the excellent explanation, Dave.
Ejection Problem
in Glock
Posted
I put the 336 ejector in mine too. Only been 200 rounds since but no failures in that time.