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deltabravo555

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Posts posted by deltabravo555

  1. Nice looking shotgun. I'm looking at purchasing one myself. What sights are you using?

    Thanks and sorry for just now replying 4 months later ....

    The only sight I have on my 930 is the original waterfowl Fiber Optic front sight with no rear.

    I now have about 500+ rds through this 930 and it has seen a few more 3Gun matches where I have have been working on my reloads since that last video. :D

    The only problem I have had was a couple of weeks ago I had cycling issues but after getting advice on this site I took apart and cleaned the piston assembly for the first time and the gun is back to running 100%.

  2. My 930 is back together and running 100% again, it was a dirty piston assembly.

    Mine ran about 500rds before having an issue. I thought I was cleaning it good but I did not know about the piston assembly / rings so I never took that apart or cleaned it.

    Thanks to all who gave their input and for those with 930's, watch that video and clean those piston parts but DO NOT remove the screw cap that holds the heavy recoil spring!

    Thanks again!

  3. I have not gotten it back together yet. I planned on doing it yesterday but went shooting on short notice instead.

    I will make some kind of compressor tomorrow and post back my results.

    I can't say I'm happy about all this, what a PITA.

  4. David, thank you. I did not know that I shouldn't remove the spring so when I unscrewed the cap all 3 pieces went flying and now I am guessing as to where the spacer goes and what it's oreantation should be towards the spring.

    I couldn't find a diagram for the parts breakdown anywhere.

    I think I will take a picture of how I have it and see if someone can confirm that it is correct or incorrect.

  5. One last question, there are 3 pieces that include the threaded cap, spring and a spacer.

    Does the spring sit against the angled side of the spacer or the flat side?

    I inserted the spacer flat side down so that the spring sits on the angled side of the spacer is that correct?

  6. I completely tore it down to clean it today and even removed the spring ..... now I can't get it compressed to re assemble it.

    Tomorrow I will make a bolt / washers compression rig for the spring like shown earlier in this thread but for now I am stuck un assembled.

    Joe, I see a little wear on the mag tube but nothing major or alarming.

  7. I just developed the same problem. :wacko:

    I have a 930 waterfowl build, cut to 22", +4 Nordic that I have run hundreds of Walmart bulk pack Federal Multi 2 3/4 3 DRAM 7 1/2 through without issue until last week.

    The 930 was cleaned and lubed right before my last match, ran maybe 80 rds through it without any issue at the match and then it was put back in the safe.

    Went to the range a few days later and immediately had cycling issues, same ammo and no changes from my match a few days prior where it ran 100%.

    First round fires, bolt goes foward but stops just short of going into battery and I get a click instead of a bang.

    If I fire a round I have to assist the bolt foward into battery then it will fire the next round and I have to repeat that process every time.

    I came here looking for help as I have not been able to take it apart and troubleshoot it yet and it looks like a few others are having a similar problem but with varying round counts.

    I am going to clean it and focus on the piston assembly but I feel like there may be something else going on especially since others have cleaned and lubed without fixing the issue, any other ideas?

  8. in short, I just found the reticle easier for me, either illuminated or off, and illuminated it's much, much brighter

    I usually am not fond of BDC reticles and prefer a mil based reticle but for the 1-4 and intended use I found the dots just quicker and easier

    I checked the data with both 55g and 77g and tested in 100yard increments out to 500 yards on steel plates.

    lack of a hold off line at 500 yards in high wind is a tad more challenging and may take a shot to walk in.

    The 77g load requires much less hold into the wind than the 55g so, it's not really an issue in all honesty

    tomorrow I am going to test the Weaver 1-5, the TAC30 and a TA33 green horseshoe reticle out to 500

    I'm running a TA33RH ( red horseshoe ) and am considering going to a 1-4x variable due to closer shots being tougher with a fixed 3x.

    What is the closest distance that you will be shooting?

    I am looking forward to hearing your comparison.

  9. Hi,

    I am looking for some help determining what length Nordic mag extension to but in order to fit on my 930 with a 22" barrel.

    Im looking for a flush fit.

    I dont have the barrel or the gun with me and I want to order the tube so I can have it ready when my new barrel shows up.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Thx!

    This is my 22" 930 build with a Nordic +4

    post-31379-0-90635400-1310924692_thumb.j

  10. Have you ever loaded to capacity with the +4 extension and had it work properly or is this this first time loading the +4 to capacity?

    Did you measure and cut the new spring when you installed the +4 extension?

    I have the same setup and I haven't had a single problem running 7 1/2 bulk pack from Walmart.

  11. Yep, that was the match (I was the guy you got your scoresheet from and did the scores). Fun match. I watched your video, you did a good job of moving so that you were taking the steel more direct than some and staying on the larger, closer ones. I made the mistake of spending some shells on the plate racks and some of the smaller steel out back. That and pushing the time so some of the shots were not centered. That stage made me pay for those iffy shots, higher power shells would have given a bit better margin for sloppiness. It did make me clean up my shots on the stage 2 though. Cannot change the choke on the old 1100 I am using, need to look into whether I can have the barrel threaded or not.

    Any chance you got video of stage 2 with the stars and rifle through the barrel? Careful, multi-gun is addictive.

    Small world! You bring up another good point, choke use / selection, not just ammo use / selection.

    The only other video I have of me shooting is of Stage 3.

    I don't want to side track this thread incase anyone doesn't want to see the match videos but my buddy has the entire match which includes that stage recorded from his visor cam, I can post a link here or PM it to you. :cheers:

  12. Last weekend was a local multi-gun match with 44 pieces of steel and a 60 second par time on one stage. Lots of the steel was out there a ways and again I messed up and brought the low brass cheap ones from WM. Paid for it on that stage. Another shotgun/rifle stage had 6 clays and 2 stars. Watched many have problems with the far star, was able to scrounge 4 high brass from a mixed box in the trunk. Low brass for the clays and close star and loaded those 4 for the last star, made the difference (that and actually aiming a bit more!).

    I think I was at that same match. If so, Stage 1 ( the 60 second stage ) was my first ever 3 gun stage and only the second time I shot my 930 so hopefully I won't get bashed too bad for my slow and sloppy reloads in my video link below lol.

    I shoot Walmart Federal Bulk Pack 7 1/2 in my 930 with a modified choke and it works great for me, no problem dropping steel as long as I actually hit it.

    It was a fun first match and I am hooked on 3 gun! :D

  13. Well, I shot my first 3 gun match with my new 930 build. I LOVE this gun!

    Here is a video of the first stage I ever shot with a shotgun.The 930 ran great but my reloading needs work. :(

  14. I think everyone besides me has a Benelli.

    +1

    I actually checked to make sure this wasn't a "Benelli Competition Shotgun Pics only" thread when I went to post a pic of my 930. :roflol:

    Nice Benelli's by the way. :cheers:

  15. Thanks guys. I never shot the 28", I sent the barrel out brand new and un shot the day after I bought the shotgun. I am shooting this weekend and will post a range report.

    The forcing cone was also lengthened and polished by GunCat.

    I have a Nordic bolt handle coming and probably putting a 3 gun gear 8rd side saddle on as well.

    The only other thing I plan to add is possibly a Nordic clamp, not sure yet.

    I'm kind of new to this shotgun stuff. What is forcing cone do? :unsure:

    I will post a link and description for you that was written by someone who can explain it better than I could. I figured why not have it done while my barrel was already in the shop getting cut and re threaded. It's supposed to reduce felt recoil as well as reduce the amount of deformed pellets which turn into " flyers " that fly out of the pattern, thus increasing accuracy.

    If it helps, great and if it doesn't, for $40, oh well.

    The Mysterious Forcing Cone from http://www.shotgunchokes.com

    "The forcing cone is the constriction at the end of the chamber that forces the load down from chamber size to the size of your shotgun bore. If you hold the barrel up, point the muzzle toward the light and look through it from the chamber end, the forcing cone will appear as a short, dark ring, dark because the angle of the short forcing cone is severe and is hidden from the light. The distance from the beginning to the end is about 1/4 - 1/2", give or take. Most barrels come from the factory with this abrupt constriction, or forcing cone.

    When the shotgun is fired, the shot load is immediately FORCED, under tremendous pressure, to squeeze through the abrupt forcing cone to the smaller size of the bore. The shot in the back of the load move first and they have to push the guys in front of them through that abrupt forcing cone. This results in some of the lead shot becoming deformed, making them ballistically unsound and causing them to fly out of the pattern. Lengthening the forcing cone by changing the abrupt angle to a more gentle, gradual constriction results in a new length of around 1 3/4" and a much more gentle angle of constriction. This optimum new length and less severe angle from chamber ID to bore ID allows the shot to make a more gradual transition from chamber to bore size, reducing shot deformation and allowing more of the shot to remain in the pattern.

    Cutting this new forcing cone is about half the job. The second half, which is usually overlooked, is the polishing step. It is extremely important for many reasons, which I explain on another page called "Proper Forcing Cone Polishing." I can tell you that I took a brand new barrel that I bought for my son, and being short on time and ready to go hunting I did a quick forcing cone alteration and decided to save the polishing step for the next day so we could go. We went out and hunted, the gun was fired several times, and when we got back I threw it in the safe and forgot about it. Three days later I was in the safe and remembered that I needed to finish that job by polising the forcing cone. What I saw when I looked down in there was amazing. The forcing cone was a mess with a good coating of early surface rust and contamination. Had I left it in there like that for a longer length of time it would have been a total mess. That's when I realized that the polishing step is for more than just performance, it is for closing up the pores on that bright new forcing cone to stop it from rusting and to make it easy to clean. I had to put the reamer in there and take a few more turns to get back to fresh metal again and then I put the polishing job on it. That never happened again. So be sure that if you get your forcing cone lengthened that the polishing step is part of the deal. Guys don't like to do it because it takes so much time, but it has to be done. Please read more on polishing on the other page."

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