deltabravo555

Thanks and sorry for just now replying 4 months later .... The only sight I have on my 930 is the original waterfowl Fiber Optic front sight with no rear. I now have about 500+ rds through this 930 and it has seen a few more 3Gun matches where I have have been working on my reloads since that last video. The only problem I have had was a couple of weeks ago I had cycling issues but after getting advice on this site I took apart and cleaned the piston assembly for the first time and the gun is back to running 100%.

My 930 is back together and running 100% again, it was a dirty piston assembly. Mine ran about 500rds before having an issue. I thought I was cleaning it good but I did not know about the piston assembly / rings so I never took that apart or cleaned it. Thanks to all who gave their input and for those with 930's, watch that video and clean those piston parts but DO NOT remove the screw cap that holds the heavy recoil spring! Thanks again!

I have not gotten it back together yet. I planned on doing it yesterday but went shooting on short notice instead. I will make some kind of compressor tomorrow and post back my results. I can't say I'm happy about all this, what a PITA.

David, thank you. I did not know that I shouldn't remove the spring so when I unscrewed the cap all 3 pieces went flying and now I am guessing as to where the spacer goes and what it's oreantation should be towards the spring. I couldn't find a diagram for the parts breakdown anywhere. I think I will take a picture of how I have it and see if someone can confirm that it is correct or incorrect.

One last question, there are 3 pieces that include the threaded cap, spring and a spacer. Does the spring sit against the angled side of the spacer or the flat side? I inserted the spacer flat side down so that the spring sits on the angled side of the spacer is that correct?

Yes Sir, I just found that out the hard way

I completely tore it down to clean it today and even removed the spring ..... now I can't get it compressed to re assemble it. Tomorrow I will make a bolt / washers compression rig for the spring like shown earlier in this thread but for now I am stuck un assembled. Joe, I see a little wear on the mag tube but nothing major or alarming.

Joe, I haven't noticed that but I will check. I might tear it down tomorrow and if not then Monday. I knew this would be a good place to start trouble shooting. Thanks.

I just developed the same problem. I have a 930 waterfowl build, cut to 22", +4 Nordic that I have run hundreds of Walmart bulk pack Federal Multi 2 3/4 3 DRAM 7 1/2 through without issue until last week. The 930 was cleaned and lubed right before my last match, ran maybe 80 rds through it without any issue at the match and then it was put back in the safe. Went to the range a few days later and immediately had cycling issues, same ammo and no changes from my match a few days prior where it ran 100%. First round fires, bolt goes foward but stops just short of going into battery and I get a click instead of a bang. If I fire a round I have to assist the bolt foward into battery then it will fire the next round and I have to repeat that process every time. I came here looking for help as I have not been able to take it apart and troubleshoot it yet and it looks like a few others are having a similar problem but with varying round counts. I am going to clean it and focus on the piston assembly but I feel like there may be something else going on especially since others have cleaned and lubed without fixing the issue, any other ideas?

Just wanted to say thank you to all of those who were involved in making this match happen. I had a great time and it was nice meeting everyone.

Thanks for the phone call, I'm in. HLG, thanks for the info and hosting the event.

I'm running a TA33RH ( red horseshoe ) and am considering going to a 1-4x variable due to closer shots being tougher with a fixed 3x. What is the closest distance that you will be shooting? I am looking forward to hearing your comparison.

2 1/2 months later and this 930 is running strong, still not a single malfunction.

This is my 22" 930 build with a Nordic +4

Have you ever loaded to capacity with the +4 extension and had it work properly or is this this first time loading the +4 to capacity? Did you measure and cut the new spring when you installed the +4 extension? I have the same setup and I haven't had a single problem running 7 1/2 bulk pack from Walmart.

Small world! You bring up another good point, choke use / selection, not just ammo use / selection. The only other video I have of me shooting is of Stage 3. I don't want to side track this thread incase anyone doesn't want to see the match videos but my buddy has the entire match which includes that stage recorded from his visor cam, I can post a link here or PM it to you.

I think I was at that same match. If so, Stage 1 ( the 60 second stage ) was my first ever 3 gun stage and only the second time I shot my 930 so hopefully I won't get bashed too bad for my slow and sloppy reloads in my video link below lol. I shoot Walmart Federal Bulk Pack 7 1/2 in my 930 with a modified choke and it works great for me, no problem dropping steel as long as I actually hit it. It was a fun first match and I am hooked on 3 gun!

Well, I shot my first 3 gun match with my new 930 build. I LOVE this gun! Here is a video of the first stage I ever shot with a shotgun.The 930 ran great but my reloading needs work.

Started off as a 28" Waterfowl 930. Barrel cut to 22" and re threaded for chokes / Fiber Optic front sight re mounted Forcing cone lengthened and polished Nordic + 4 extension ( 8 + 1 ) Nordic bolt handle 3 Gun Gear 8rd velcro side saddle

+1 I actually checked to make sure this wasn't a "Benelli Competition Shotgun Pics only" thread when I went to post a pic of my 930. Nice Benelli's by the way.

Looks good! I like the clamp, I went to order the clamp with the rail on it but it was sold out.

Quick pic from the 930's first range trip. Weapon ran great on Walmart bulk pack Federal 7 1/2 and Winchester 8. About 120 rds total without any problems.

Guncat did my 930 28" to 22" barrel cut + re thread work and I can tell you after shooting it today for the first time that it was done correctly and I am very happy.

I also added the Nordic bolt handle. Here is a picture showing both. The stock handle is on the bottom and the Nordic replacement is on the top. Big improvement.

I'm kind of new to this shotgun stuff. What is forcing cone do? I will post a link and description for you that was written by someone who can explain it better than I could. I figured why not have it done while my barrel was already in the shop getting cut and re threaded. It's supposed to reduce felt recoil as well as reduce the amount of deformed pellets which turn into " flyers " that fly out of the pattern, thus increasing accuracy. If it helps, great and if it doesn't, for $40, oh well. The Mysterious Forcing Cone from http://www.shotgunchokes.com "The forcing cone is the constriction at the end of the chamber that forces the load down from chamber size to the size of your shotgun bore. If you hold the barrel up, point the muzzle toward the light and look through it from the chamber end, the forcing cone will appear as a short, dark ring, dark because the angle of the short forcing cone is severe and is hidden from the light. The distance from the beginning to the end is about 1/4 - 1/2", give or take. Most barrels come from the factory with this abrupt constriction, or forcing cone. When the shotgun is fired, the shot load is immediately FORCED, under tremendous pressure, to squeeze through the abrupt forcing cone to the smaller size of the bore. The shot in the back of the load move first and they have to push the guys in front of them through that abrupt forcing cone. This results in some of the lead shot becoming deformed, making them ballistically unsound and causing them to fly out of the pattern. Lengthening the forcing cone by changing the abrupt angle to a more gentle, gradual constriction results in a new length of around 1 3/4" and a much more gentle angle of constriction. This optimum new length and less severe angle from chamber ID to bore ID allows the shot to make a more gradual transition from chamber to bore size, reducing shot deformation and allowing more of the shot to remain in the pattern. Cutting this new forcing cone is about half the job. The second half, which is usually overlooked, is the polishing step. It is extremely important for many reasons, which I explain on another page called "Proper Forcing Cone Polishing." I can tell you that I took a brand new barrel that I bought for my son, and being short on time and ready to go hunting I did a quick forcing cone alteration and decided to save the polishing step for the next day so we could go. We went out and hunted, the gun was fired several times, and when we got back I threw it in the safe and forgot about it. Three days later I was in the safe and remembered that I needed to finish that job by polising the forcing cone. What I saw when I looked down in there was amazing. The forcing cone was a mess with a good coating of early surface rust and contamination. Had I left it in there like that for a longer length of time it would have been a total mess. That's when I realized that the polishing step is for more than just performance, it is for closing up the pores on that bright new forcing cone to stop it from rusting and to make it easy to clean. I had to put the reamer in there and take a few more turns to get back to fresh metal again and then I put the polishing job on it. That never happened again. So be sure that if you get your forcing cone lengthened that the polishing step is part of the deal. Guys don't like to do it because it takes so much time, but it has to be done. Please read more on polishing on the other page."