Glen
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Posts posted by Glen
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Yes. The rest of the "shroud" is just a mount for that cross member.
Glen
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This is a derail from the holster thread wherein the locking holsters don't seem
to lock.
A CR holster has a profiled tit (teat) that goes inside the trigger guard and controls
the entry and exit of the trigger guard from the holster. An L-shaped plastic lever
rotates, to either allow or disallow the tit to flex sideways. If the tit cannot flex
sideways, then the gun cannot be drawn. However, because of the materials and
construction used, the lever can be overridden.
I made shrouds for my CR holsters so that when they are locked the tit will not flex
sideways. It is a piece of extruded square aluminum tubing with some holes cut and
drilled into it.
The main feature is a band of metal that prevents any sideways flexing from occuring
when the lever is in the locked position. The rest is just mount.
The pictures are of a righthand holster converted to lefthand operation. The lever is
now on the wrong side since I changed to left hand.
The large window is to allow the insertion or removal of a different tit if I change guns.
You can see the metal band that keeps the lever from flexing sideways.
This view shows the spacers used to position the shroud.
Glen
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When I first found the BE forum, there were many threads on
gun retention. It got me concerned, not so much for the safety
aspect as from the embarassment.
I have added "shrouds" to my CR Speed holsters, made from
square aluminum tubing. When my holster is locked, the gun
cannot be removed without breaking the holster. You would have
to tear off the CR locking doo-hicky to pull the gun.
Glen
Glen,
Have you posted about your modifications before? That would make for an interesting read...especially with pictures. ('cause I read better with pictures?
) It would make a good thread on it's own!I'll start a thread in the Gear and Accessories section. With a few pictures.
Glen
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When I first found the BE forum, there were many threads on
gun retention. It got me concerned, not so much for the safety
aspect as from the embarassment.
I have added "shrouds" to my CR Speed holsters, made from
square aluminum tubing. When my holster is locked, the gun
cannot be removed without breaking the holster. You would have
to tear off the CR locking doo-hicky to pull the gun.
Glen
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+1 on the superglue technique. The apparent "dot" is smaller this way as well.
Glen
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Another slight drift for Bongo.
If you get involved with USPSA rifle and/or shotgun, you will
find that rule 5.2.1.1 mandates the use of a chamber flag.
Many (most?) non-USPSA matches don't require them, but you
should be aware of their existence.
Glen
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To steal a quote from an expert ...
Stand back, Earth Beings, for the correct mechanical info and rumor debunking:The 1911 pistol is not like the SAA revolver.
The 1911 firing pin is shorter than the tunnel in which it rides. It is held back by the firing pin return spring. At rest, the hammer is flush with the retaining plate, so there is no way for the hammer to jolt the firing pin forward. Bash the snot out of it with a ball peen hammer, you aren't going to use the pistols hammer to launch the firing pin forward with the hammer down. Half-cock, you bet.
The grip safety has nothing to do with any of this, it just stops the trigger from moving.
The firing pin spring holds the firing pin back. Supposedly, if you drop a 1911, inertia will fire it. I'd love to see Colt's tests, as mine prove otherwise. Ned Christiansen and I essentially destroyed a test 1911, dropping it on its muzzle from a height of eight feet onto a concrete floor repeatedly, without a single instance of the primed, chambered case discharging.
All old hands know that a 1911 in Condition 2 (there, I said it) is safe. What isn't safe is getting the damn thing cocked.
Back in the day, we never did stage starts from Condition 2. We always did it from 3, and the stage description had a paragraph explaining why you were in the predicament you were in.
Glen
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At first glance, I completely misread this thread title.
... Avoid Choking ...... posted by EarMeerkats.
Glen
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Is this what you're looking for?
Glen
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Did you ever think about the under lugs on the slide stop pin? It's the only stop point in the forward motion of the upper gun.
Yes, I've thought about it. We pound on the under lugs and slide stop
pin every time we fire the gun. Many thousands of rounds worth. I don't
expect the parts to fail by dropping the slide on an empty chamber. There
isn't enough of an energy difference (between the two situations) to do that.
I seldom do it , but I don't chastise myself if I do.
Glen
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I've never been concerned about dropping the slide on an empty
chamber, either deliberately or when run dry.
When the slide is on its forward motion, the trigger is disconnected from
the hammer/sear assembly before the slide picks up another round, or
not, as the case may be.
This disconnection continues until the slide is back in battery.
Dropping the slide isn't going to affect anything unless your trigger job was
defective to begin with ie. the sear pops out of the hammer hooks from the impact.
Glen
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Welcome to this forum (and to Global as well). There's a huge fund
of information here.
Oh foo .... XRe beat me to the rest. (gotta type faster)
Glen
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All any one has to do is google "Antibiotic Resistance" or
"Herbicide Resistant Weeds" and make up their own minds.
ID has no explanatory power for either.
This thread should be closed before it gets divisive.
Glen
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they way I understand it is that you can have live ammunition in the safe area - just that you cant handle it or touch it in any way, eg loaded mags - am I wrong ?
You are correct.
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Ok ... you have a round with a primer in backwards (not sideways,
as I haven't investigated them).
You chamber it and "fire" the round. Clearly there are
some consequences due to the inverted primer.
Do any of these consequences rise to the level of unsafe?
For sure an inverted primer will not ignite the powder, so
the problems associated with firing a round also won't exist.
ie. squibs, too much power, not enough power, cracked cases ...
That leaves the primer itself. The primer cup isn't going anywhere
as it is in the primer pocket and will actually be pushed into it, sealing
the flash hole.
The primer anvil is a different story. It vanishes. Blown apart
and spread with no noticeable residue throughout the interior of
the gun. I don't think there is enough energy in the primer to
obliterate the anvil and still have some left over to cause other damage.
Comments would be appreciated on this issue.
When the inverted primer pops, there is a sharp sound and a very
small puff of smoke.
The last one is the lead compounds used in non-NT primers. The
inverted primer will have these lead compounds vented near the
shooter rather than in a downrange direction. As bad as shooting
indoors?
None of these consequences rise to the level of unsafe. When an
inverted primer pops, it's unxepected but it isn't unsafe.
We shouldn't conflate the two.
Glen
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Here's the steps RS should be using ...
1) Un-ammo just outside the safe area. You have the whole
range except the safe areas to do this. Not just your car.
2) Re-configure your equipment in the safe area, including reholstering.
3) Step outside the safe area and re-ammo.
4) Go to the next stage.
Glen
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In regards to the OP, it would be a DQ. You must have your gun
cased, or in a gun rug, or in a range bag before entering the
match area.
For the rest of the discussion ... I don't understand the difficulty in
changing equipment configurations. Just before entering the safe
area, I put all my ammo in my range bag or in my cart. I step into
the safe area and make my changes. I step out of the safe area
and re-ammo as required. No way would I be walking back and forth
to my truck. Too much like exercise.
Glen
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For me, the cold weather solution is to wear gauntlet-style
mitts with skintight cotton gloves inside. At the LAMR I toss
the mitts and carry on. My guns have lots of grip tape so
there is no worry that the cotton gloves won't stick. The
difficulty is re-adjusting my grip as the cotton glove grip tape
method works almost too well.
Glen
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I have a date for some rifle practice today. It's -20 F as I type this.
Two years ago, in February, I shot a 3gun match in about the same
temperatures. Lots of hardy people around the burning barrels.
Cold is when you have to break off the yellow icicle after you piss.
Glen
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Super glue for me too.
Glen
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I used a soldering iron to heat the hex screw heads.
I had to re-zero.
Glen
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To add to AikiDale's post ....
C. Get as much knowledgeable instruction as you can.
D. Practice handling the gun, relentlessly, until it is a part of you,
just like another finger on your hand.
Familiarity breeds certainty.
Glen
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I use ammunition boxes with labels made from pasters. New brass
is not in a marked box. Fire the new stuff, clean it, and put it in a
pail with a paper having the number 1 on it. The number in the pail
of brass waiting for a reload is the number of times it has been
fired.
At some point you're getting low on new loads, so load some of the
1 brass and put it in an ammo box with a 1 on it.
Use up the new loads and segregate the brass in a zip-lok bag. Now
shoot the 1 loads and also segregate them in a zip-lok. When you get
home, clean the new loads and dump them in the 1 pail waiting for reloading.
And so on. Often you will have two numbered loads in your possession.
Shoot the lowest ones first and segregate the brass. Then shoot the higher
numbered loads.
This is for 38 super brass at 180+ power factor.
Glen
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Pharaoh .....
You have indicated in another thread that you
are going to to the World Shoot Qualifier.
Some of this match is going to be shot under
IPSC rules so I would think that you should get
a ruling from IPSC, not just USPSA, or fix your
gun prior to the match. This is reminiscent of the
Adam T incident at the last world shoot. You don't
need that grief and aggravation.
Of course none of this applies if you are not shooting
production.
Glen
) It would make a good thread on it's own!
CR Speed Holster Shroud
in Gear & Accessories
Posted
As an update to the above pictures ...
I made a new lever out of ABS plastic that makes it possible to
unlock the gun on the draw.
This shows the lever that replaces the original CR lever.
This is what it looks like installed and in the locked position.
It locks as well as the previous method. I will have to get used to
hitting the release on the draw, but that doesn't seem to be an issue
so far. It took about an hour to make and adjust (mostly adjust).
Glen