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PJones1911

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Posts posted by PJones1911

  1. If any of you are S&W 625 revolver shooters and use them in competition, there is a large advantage to the small primer 45 brass. I have collected a lot of small primer brass over the past two years and just kept it with the intention of using it at some point. I shoot both at 686 and a 625 in competition. After doing a complete trigger job on both guns, with Jerry Mikulek's help, I was able to have a smooth 6 pound trigger pull on both revolvers. The 686 ignited the primers consistently and reliably every time but the 625 required an 8 pound pull to be consistent and reliable. It dawned on me that the small primer might just be the difference so I loaded up a bunch of 45 with the small primer and set the trigger pull to 6 pounds. It works great so I am now looking to collect more small primer 45 brass for revolver shooting. I am lucky enough to have 2 650 presses, one for small primer and one for large primer so it makes no difference to me which one I load 45 on.

    Keep reloading,

    Paul

  2. Here are my standard loads for the two guns. I use Bayou 200gr Round Nose or Precision 200gr Round Nose Flat Point with 4.5 grains of Clays for the 45. This gives me a PF of 171 average. I use the same load in my 1911 as well except that I use the 200gr SWC. For 38 Special I use the Bayou 135gr Round Nose with 3.9 grains of Clays which gives me a PF of 134 average. I find Clays to be as clean as it gets in powder. I am primarily an IDPA shooter.

  3. Should have sent it to S&W. Their customer service is great. I had a 686 SSR where they neglected to chamfer the charge holes. They emailed me a UPS pickup and I had the gun back in about two weeks all fixed up. I like to tinker and have done many trigger jobs on revolvers but would be afraid to cut metal like that.

  4. I forgot to mention that any S&W revolver shooter should consider buying Jerry Miculek's CD's teaching how to do a good trigger job, clean and maintain & shoot. All 3 CD's are a great value and helped me get much better IDPA results in ESR.

  5. I had both the JM and the PC and recently sold the JM. The PC is slightly heavier and I believe to be a smoother operating gun. I did the Miculek trigger job using his spring kit and now have a 7lb trigger pull. I do have to use Federal primers to guarantee ignition of the primers. I sold the JM and purchased another PC as my backup. Buy the PC and put Miculek grips on it.

  6. I have 2 M&P Pro's and if I seat the magazine firmly enough, it will drop the slide and strip a round on both of them. I have a friend who is having the same issue that you are having. He was told by Smith that is not a feature but a result in some pistols of slamming the magazine in. I would try setting the magazine without slamming it and then see if it will strip a round when dropping the slide. You could also try a few different magazines like he did. Some magazines would work and others not. Keep in mind that this is not a feature but an oddity. I think it has to do with the timing of when & how the magazine is seated and how hard it is pushed in. I have to slam mine home for it to drop the slide. You can also contact Dan Burwell at Burwell gunsmithing to get his opinion.

  7. I have been told so many different ways to shoot the Texas star. Shoot the top and then the next two on either side and so on. I have also been told to shoot one and wait for them to come around. They are a lot of fun until the last plate tic-tocing back & forth.

  8. I had no problems for years and then started to ride the safety on my 1911 with my strong hand thumb. Then I wasn't pressing the grip safety enough. Now my support thumb rides the slide lock. The grip is completely messed up. Where did my old grip go. I want it back. Anyway, I am trying the support thumb far forward and it feels very unnatural to me. I need a wrist bender. The thumb forward is getting better the more i practice it and I no longer ride the slide stop. Grip is very important so keep working on it.

  9. I have two Dillon 650's and use them quite heavily. Dillon did say to clean & lube the main shaft with 30w motor oil. I was told to put some light weight oil, like Rem oil, on all the arm's pivot points. One of mine has the grease fittings and one does not. I don't have a grease gun so I use the Rem oil and it works great.

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