Gabe Athouse
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Posts posted by Gabe Athouse
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I have not run them thru the chrono, but they both work well for me in 180 .40. I couldn't tell one was any dirtier than the other.
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Gallon milk jugs with the top cut off work great for me to store loaded ammo and smaller amounts of brass. The handles are strong enough to hold 500 rounds of most ammo. The USPS medium shipping boxes are also good for brass storage.
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MGM targets are worth the money in my experience. They are easy to do business with and the targets hold up when used as recommended.
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I think its worth the phone call to Manny for single case prices. It may not be as convenient as finding the price online, but its about $20 difference per case between MG and Manny. I'll make the call to save $20 bucks.
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The Giraud trimmer arrived. It does make quick work of the trimming and is very consistent. Still trying to decide if its worth the $450, but I think it will be in the long run. It looks like it will last a long time, and stand up to more use than I'm likely to put it through.
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180gr FMJ from Montana Gold with 5.6 gr. of Bullseye. I can't say that the Bullseye is better than any other powder but I have had no problems with it, meters good for me, I can use it in other calibers, and I can find it easily.
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Nobody mentioned Fort Knox. I've been happy with their stuff, no complaints. I've seen 2 Fort Knox's that get opened and closed maybe 10 or 12 times a day, everyday, for years(maybe 7 or 8 now) and the door and lock still function properly.
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Did you get your die working properly? What was the fix?
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I bought a 35 and decided I liked the 34 better. Its next on my list. Its a good one.
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Has anyone actually ordered a single case of MG from MannyUSA? Anybody have first experience with this?
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Ordered a Giraud trimmer recently. I'm hoping its all its supposed to be. I figure if its not what I had hoped it would be, I could sell it off. I don't see used ones for sale often.
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That die should work fine for you, its just not set up properly. I had the same problem with a RCBS die set initialy when getting my .223 toolhead dialed in. As I remember it, the problem was that the die was up too high, so when the shellplate was raising, the bullet had plenty of room/time to flop over and get caught up when entering the die- seating it way too deep. When I brought the die down some, it cleared up the problem. The bullets weren't catching on the way up, by the time the bullet could flop over it was already started in the die. Not sure if I explained this clearly.
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Maybe see what alcohol and some Qtips will do for cleaning it up before replacing the die with a new one.
I recently tried lube on my pistol brass, just to see if it was worth the extra step, and I won't load without it now. What a difference it makes. Even 1 or 2 pumps of the Dillon lube into the batch makes a noticable difference. I use half as much as I would for rifle brass and its worth the added step.
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I've used the RCBS carbide die sets to seat XTPs in several different calibers and never had a problem.
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Will I have tried the loads in Hodgdon book but it will not run the gun. I am loading the STI long (1.8) so the data will not help me.
Well having loaded 170gn moly coated lead to 1.175 with less than 5.0 grains of universal clays, It'll run a 2011 just fine. If you are unable to get a load that makes the gun function using the factory data, you are doing something wrong. You could also simply use the search function to find a ton of them on here already.
Rather than give you more instructions you may not understand, lets start with a quiz. What load have you tried already, and how did they not "run the gun".
I do understand loading ammo, and i have loaded for years with hodgdon universal for 9mm and 40 cal @ 1.125 with 5.0grs for the 40cal. But with the STI I am loading the bullets at 1.180 and using the 5.0grs will not cycle the gun. So I though someone could help me on this and not be a smarta$$ about loading.
I was confused too. There was no powder given and the COL was not right. I would pick up several different reloading manuals for a reference.
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Theres really no excuse to not have the spare parts kit. If a guy can't afford the price of the kit, then shooting and realoading probably isn't the hobby to be in. The price of that kit is almost nothing compared to how much money is sitting around in primers, powder, bullets, dies, the press, firearms.
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I've had a problem before in .40 with not having my crimp adjusted properly. I left too much flare or bell on the casing which prevented it from chambering in all my handguns. It chambered no problem in a H&K barrel but not in a Glock barrel.
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I spent years on a single stage and just went to the 550. I love it, no complaints. Check out some youtube videos of both machines, that helped me decide. You won't be disappointed with either model.
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I'm a police officer and was told today that AR's, specifically Rock River AR's, do not like reloads.... This was told to me by my departments rifle instructor which was told to him by the instructor of his armorer's school. The issue is with primers falling out (?????) and falling into the receiver (again ?????). He won't let us use reloads to train with or qualify with. I found this extremely unusual because the issues would be with the one reloading and not the products from my expierence. Has anyone heard anything even close to this?
Sometimes its easier to beg forgiveness than ask permission.
I think if you make quality ammo and pay attention to C.O.L. and making sure your primers are seated properly and that the primer pocket isn't loose you should be ok. If they all go bang and the brass ejects is anyone going to really notice? I know I've never had anyone come over and inspect what was in my magazines.
***NOTE- im only refering to ammo for quals and training, not duty rounds***
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I did follow some other posters advice and polished the inside of my powder bar. I don't really know if it helped as I did it before I ever started loading, but it has never given me any problems, even when loading Varget, which has hung up in other people's powder bar. Maybe doing that would slick things up a little for you.
You just polish it up with a dremel tool or something similar?
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I was told it would meter well, and I don't know why it wouldn't. My next step is to take one of my other Dillon powder measurers and put a large powder bar in it and see if I can make it work. Maybe that new measurer has a problem, as unlikely as that sounds.
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I'm working on a new .223 load. Somebody at the Dillon showroom recommended BLC-2 powder. I'm using the Dillon powder measurer on my 550 with the large powder bar. I'm trying to drop 25 grains but I can't get it dialed in. It varies by almost a full grain from charge to charge. I ended up getting frustrated and scrapping the BLC2 idea and am back to dropping H4895 which meters real consistent for me.
Any ideas from the more experienced as to what I can do to get a more consistent charge? Is this just how well I can expect the BLC2 to meter?
Thanks for any help.
Montana Gold 180 Loading data please?
in 10mm/40 Caliber
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Ive had decent results using Bullseye with 180 MG bullets. Ive put a few hundred through a g35 without problems. Bullseye meters real consistent in dillon, not particularly expensive, its easy to get from powder valley, I use it in other calibers. It works for me.