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slippp

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Posts posted by slippp

    Load development questions

    in Pistol Caliber Carbine

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Bwillis said:

    @slippp out of curiosity what are your splits? Out running a gun capable of full auto rate of fire is impressive. 

     

    What I'm saying is the bolt lockup time, due to the lighter power factor, wasn't returning the bolt back to battery fast enough with the setup I initially had.  It was a 308 Rifle spring and blitzkrieg non HD buffer.  That combination and my barrel / comp combination was creating a long lockup and long travel time.  It's not because I was too fast, but rather my setup was not optimized.  

     

    If I was running 140+ power factor on that setup, I would have definitely not outran it.  

     

    I *definitely* can't split faster than full auto :P 

     

    Load development questions

    in Pistol Caliber Carbine

    Posted · Edited by slippp

    4 hours ago, Shootymacshootface said:

    Thats one thing that I will never have ro worry about, out shooting my guns action.

    Why?  

     

    I'm not bragging by no means, but the first day I got my PCC, I took it straight to a match with no tested load.  I found myself waiting for the bolt to cycle back into battery when trying to run the gun through the stages.  

     

    When I chrono'd, I was 129 PF, which was definitely way too slow for my setup on day one.  I didn't have a short stroke kit installed either.  

    Load development questions

    in Pistol Caliber Carbine

    Posted

    So I just received the factory JP Short stroke buffer scs ........ 

     

    No dry fire yet, but I realized that yes, while it is "short stroke", it's definitely not as short as the blitz with PCC weight.  

     

    I wonder if a 135 power factor load will be sufficient with the buffer or if I should have a 142 power factor load so the lockup time is faster.  

     

    Load development questions

    in Pistol Caliber Carbine

    Posted · Edited by slippp
    added pic

    Can you please PM me the number?  I tried calling three times today and nothing. 

     

    And to make it worse, both of my blitzkrieg buffers broke today.  The piston heads both came off.....   

     

    I took a look at it and it seems like there is still red loctite on the set screw, so I didn't bother messing with it.  But the fact that this happened makes me hard pass on replacing this buffer and instead going with the JP SCS-SS 

     

    https://www.blitzkriegcomponents.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AR15-KYNJP-9C

     

    This is what I ordered.  

    4 hours ago, RaylanGivens said:

     

    Blitzkrieg's phone number is Brian's cell phone...  I don't usually have much trouble getting through.

     

    You short stroke the 5015HD buffer with external spacers of some sort...  make them out of delron...  use the Blitz SS spacer...  use quarters...  whatever you want.

     

     Not sure what you mean about the springs...  I've never taken one apart...  The 5007 and 5015HD have the part number stamped on the outside of the case...  The 5015HD has a heavier spring...  Perhaps you bought some kind of kit...  I bought my parts separately, so no idea...  Look on their web site and see what it came with.

      

     

    buffer 2.jpg

    Load development questions

    in Pistol Caliber Carbine

    Posted

    2 minutes ago, bgary said:

    From my notes:  Brian said that adding the weight to the HD buffer would short-stroke it.  It adds 2.6oz of weight and 3/4" of length to the buffer, "slows the bolt and short-strokes the system".    He did say, though, that in his opinion short-stroking reduces the feel of the bolt slamming forward but "doesn't affect speed".

     

     He also said that in his testing, loads running around 140PF seemed to produce the best feel.

      

     ymmv....

     Bruce

     

    Yeah.  I have the weight.  It reduces lockup time significantly and it definitely short strokes haha.  

     

    I guess I gotta chrono and actually find the real and non theory crafted FPS.  

     

    The only real FPS data I have was 3.4-3.6gr GM3, which had a high of 131 PF and a low of 127PF.  I bumped up the powder to 4.4 and I was around 137 PF.  I'm currently on a 4.6-4.8gr load but I have no actual FPS data.  

     

    I'm wondering if I should switch to 124gr if I'm bumping it up this hot.  

     

     

    Load development questions

    in Pistol Caliber Carbine

    Posted

    On 4/22/2019 at 6:10 AM, egd5 said:

    I've not done any real work with tuning yet. I will soon, since I've got a new JP on the way. But it would seem to me that the heavier the spring/buffer is, you need more force to push the bolt back far enough to reset the trigger. The trick is to find just the right amount that resets the trigger without being any more than that.

    So I think you're right--"heavier spring requires higher pf"

    Right?  That's what I was thinking.  

    But I had a 132PF load that I tested that felt so damn good, but I only had 50 of them so I don't know if it would be "hot" enough under extreme rapid fire to run reliably.  I will be testing that today.  

     

    23 hours ago, bgary said:

    Based on that... I'm working up my own load.  Starting with N320 under a 124gr MG as others have mentioned here.  I know I can build consistent ammo, and I'll be able to compare the "feel" with the factory loads I've tried to see what feels good.

     

    Then, my thought is, once I have a load I like I'll tune the gun to suit.  I have a blitz buffer and JP spring, I have a Shooting Innovations buffer, and I also have a handful of weights for the (stock) JP-SCS I can use in various combinations.  Somewhere along the way I'm pretty sure I'll find a combination that feels right.

     

    Open to ideas, if I'm thinking about this wrong.

    $.02

    I have played a lot with the JP Supermatch barrel.  

    N320 is definitely the recommended powder for this barrel.  

    I'm sure you have your baseline data, but if not, 3.6 grain will be a great starting point on your load.  

    Please report back when you can regarding which setup feels the best.  

     

    Just curious, why aren't you short stroking?  JP just released a newly refined SCS-SS system that is supposed to be the best in the market.  

     

    16 hours ago, CalTeacher said:

    I’ve found that between 140-150pf is the sweet spot with 124gr jacketed bullets in my setups.  Both my rifles have 14.5” barrels with blitzkrieg buffers, 308 rifle springs and weighted spacers between the bolt and buffer.  This has proven to be the optimal setup for me in terms of reliability and dot movement.

      

     i tried short stroking my buffer system with a spacer in the bottom of the tube, but with direct contact between the bolt and buffer I was destroying blitzkriegs.  Since I put the spacer between the bolt and buffer I have really tamed down the recoil of the rifle and (I hope) solved the problem of broken buffers.

    Not being a dick or anything here, but why 124 over 115?  

    That was my dilemma for the months leading up to my delivery of the PCC.  

     

    I decided with 115gr RN and so far so good, but I also have a couple 124gr loads that I will be trying today.  (4.7gr gm3, 124gr jhp, 1.135 OAL) 

     

    Blitz released a new spacer that goes in front of the buffer (direct contact with the bolt).  I've been using it and it's been alright so far.  I am waiting for JP to ship me their new SCS-SS so I have a comparison.  Though, I feel like I really need to load much hotter due to the heavy ass spring on this blitz setup vs the JP setup.  I'm also not sure if I wanna commit to hydraulic vs non hydraulic yet.  

     

    16 hours ago, bgary said:

     

    When I ordered the Blitzkrieg buffer, I called and asked about spacers (because the secret-sauce my friends had told me was buffer+spacer+wave-spring). 

     

     Brian said that his new "HD" buffer works better than the old buffer+spacer+wave-spring combination, and that if I really wanted extra weight he recommended the (2.6oz) add-on weight.

      

     Haven't tried it yet, but... that was the guidance.

    You called them and they answered?!  wtf?  I've been calling them and leaving them VMs for days.  No replies back.  Maybe they hate me already?  

    The new HD buffer is not short stroke.  I have the new HD buffer and there were no options for a short stroked HD buffer.  

     

     

    15 hours ago, RaylanGivens said:

     

    I followed the same path...  When I bought my first 5015HD to try, I also bought one of the 2.6oz SS spacer...  The 2.6oz SS spacer was too large (in diameter) to fit in my receiver extension, so I didn't use it...  I liked the 5015HD better than the 5007, so I kept using it.

     

     After a while...  I noticed the cap on my 5015HD started to come off as I was cleaning it one day...  Called Brian ( very helpful guy) and he said he would replace it...  Said there was a newer version with better cap attachment and two set screws at the top that he would replace it with...  I also mentioned that the SS spacer was too tight to fit in my buffer tube...  There is a newer SS spacer that is slightly less weight with a reduced diameter...  Installed the second 5015HD with the new SS spacer in front and have been using it ever since...  No troubles so far!

      

    How can you tell the difference between 5015 / 5007 springs?  I've been trying to reach out to them to see which spring I have with my kit but I haven't gotten a reply back in over a week.  

    Load development questions

    in Pistol Caliber Carbine

    Posted

    Hello.  I have some questions.  

     

    When going through load development phase and short stroke buffers, what's the general idea behind PF ?  

     

    I'm running a short stroked blitz PCC buffer system and running 141 PF (10.5 inch barrel, 6 inch comp).  

     

    Is my goal to lessen the PF on a short stroke or raise the PF on short stroke?  I haven't tried the JP scs-ss yet, but it's my next plan.  

     

    I understand that the blitz spring is a little on the heavier side (compared to JP's short stroke) so I was curious if a heavier spring requires higher PF.  

     

    I hope I've given enough information to help answer my question.  Thanks!  

    Noob reloader! Could use some advice on building an XL650

    in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment

    Posted · Edited by slippp

    Here is my build list so far. Please critique and comment as necessary to provide better insight! 

    - Dillon XL650 (9mm, 38 super)
    - 9MM carbide die set 
    - 650 casefeeder small pistol 
    - 1 inch bench wrench
    - x8 small pickup tubes 
    - Primer flip tray
    - 650 spare parts kit
    - Handle with aluminum roller
    - 650 machine mount
    - Bullet Tray Kit 
    - 650 conversion for 10mm/40SW
    - Carbide Die set 10/40
    - XL650 Quickchange x2 (will ask about this later) 
    - Casefeeder plate large pistol 
    - Carbide Die Set 38 Super 
    - x3 XL650/1050 powder check system 
    - Dillon Dial Caliper 
    - D terminator scale 
    - Small Media Separator 
    - Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler / dehydrator / media separator 
    - Corn Cob Media (10lb) 
    - Brass polish 290
    - XL650 Toolhead 

    How does the list look so far? My questions are: 

    - Would I need to get the XL650 quickchange if I'm gonna do a toolhead setup with powder drops? 
    - What would be the best way to optimize the build?
    - I want to make changing between calibers as easy as possible. Would this setup be the best way? 

    I picked the XL650 over the 1050 due to lifetime warranty.

    Eventually I would like to load 45ACP and 44 mag as well. 

    Thanks for the help!

    44mag Speedloader and pouch problems. And holster, too!

    in Gear & Accessories

    Posted

    Hello.

    I just recently purchased a 44mag 629 V Comp PC and I cannot find any worthy drop leg holster after a day of searching.

    I also cannot find any good speedloaders and pouches to go along with it. I'd prefer a molle attachment for the speedloader pouch.

    I ran across speedbeez but I can't find any pouches that would fit in there.

    This will be for a hunting setup, which is why I want a molle attachment and drop leg aspect.

    What are some popular setups these days? Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Breaking in an r700....

    in Precision Rifle

    Posted · Edited by slippp

    My wife and I have shot out a lot of barrels shooting F-Class. I used to spend a day at the range ding the 1 shot clean method. I have given up on this method for the last 5 barrels or so. I do know that a barrel will have a lot of copper for some small number of shots…2-3 or as many as 10 depending on the barrel.

    Since I tend to shoot a few number of shots in each session in the beginning of a new barrel load development…testing a few charges for velocity. I go to the range and shoot whatever I have to shoot. Take the barrel home and clean it down to bare metal. I repeat this until the barrel quits looking like a penny inside. Since I have a borescope, I know exactly when this happens.

    I have given up on brushes and Sweets in favor of wipeout for removing copper.

    Good luck

    Great information! Thanks!

    I clean before I shoot it the first time, after that I just shoot it. Google the Gail McMillan article on the topic.

    Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

    Thanks! I just read it. Seems to me that barrel cleaning is a marketing myth.

    There is a big article over on Snipers hide about this. Worth the read. Get a bore guide and use a good rod. Bore snakes aren't really all that for precision rifles. Can you use them? Of course, but it's not even close to the optimum method.

    Thanks! My next investment is to get the Mrs to buy me a bore guide and rod :D

    Are we talking about a bone stock factory Remington 700? If so, go shoot the hell out of it and sleep peacefully at night.

    If we're talking about a new Shilen, Bartlein, Lilja etc. then by all means pick whatever magic voodoo procedure tickles your fun spot and run with it. There seems to be no actual science regarding all these religious break in procedures, and talking to a few PRS competitors that burn out barrels all the time, there's no advantage to it either.

    Yeah. Essentially bone stock.

    http://imgur.com/0Xr9HkY

    Eventually I'm going with a custom build using a Bartlein barrel and deviant action.

    Breaking in an r700....

    in Precision Rifle

    Posted

    Hello. I would like to break in my r700 in .308 and have a few questions.

    A lot of people swear by the shoot 1 clean 1 ladder method. Is this necessary?

    One of my friends are saying that I don't need to do that at all.

    Other people say shoot 3 for a group, then clean.

    What about boresnake? People say not to use this and to use a real cleaning brush.

    I'm so lost with how I should break it in.

    Any guidance would be appreciated!

    Shot my first match last weekend in like 4 years!

    in Tips for Improvement

    Posted

    Nice work amigo!

    Your reloads weren't bad.

    Just keep puttin rounds down range

    Thank you!!

    Thank you for your service!

    I thought transitions looked good reloads look good. Speed will come back with practice and trigger time.

    Thank you!

    I just need to get a little better at my controlled pairs ! That stage for me took i think it was 27 seconds because I was shooting slow when it could have been 17 seconds .

    Shot my first match last weekend in like 4 years!

    in Tips for Improvement

    Posted

    Hello guys. Just getting back in the game. I had no time to shoot (USPSA anyway. Shot plenty rounds through my M4 though :P ) while I was serving as an Infantryman in the US Army, but now that my Active Duty contract is done, it's time for me to get back in the game!

    Considering it was my first match in ages, I decided to shoot a little slower and focus on tracking my front sight and making smooth transitions. Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast! But in my case, I was just slow. haha.

    Anyway, I'm open to any critiques and things I can improve! I know my reloads are a little sloppy, but it will come with more practice. Thanks for watching!!

    Ordered My New limited Pistol from SVI

    in The Gallery

    Posted

    Congratulations on the new pistol and yes the wait SUCKS!! When I order a pistol, I want it yesterday :goof: But like you said, it will be worth the wait! :cheers:

    Let's be honest here....

    We all know you have like 3 pistols on order at the moment. :roflol:

    Every time I check into the gallery, I always expect a new post from new showing a new pistol you just got. :cheers:

    I need a better job.

    How do I put together a mainspring housing?

    in 1911-style Pistols

    Posted

    post-9226-0-38742900-1309341488_thumb.jp

    1. Assemble the mainspring cap, mainspring, and mainspring retainer then insert into the mainspring housing.

    2. Carefully depress the cap far enough to allow you to install the small 1/16 inch pin.

    3. Carefully and slowly release the pressure on the spring cap until the pin captures it.

    Thanks! Do I just slide in the 1/16in pin? Or do I have to punch it in?

    What do you recommend I depress the cap with?

    And please, for the love of God, wear safety glasses when you do this. That spring and mainspring cap are under a good amount of tension and will fly good distances at high speed if it slips out of your hand.

    Safety glasses? What the hell are those? :P

    Yes, and put it in a vice if you have one...being careful not to squeeze on the side rails on the MSH.

    I can probably use the vice I have at work...

    Dawson makes a great DVD detailing the complete breakdown and rebuild of 1911's and 2011's. Worth the price! :cheers:

    http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=80000889-1198782444

    Someone is sponsored by dawson precision... :roflol:

    Rubber band the grip safety down so you don't have to chase the sear spring around

    I read about this in the installation guide they included with the msh, but my gun is already completely disassembled so it's not an issue at the moment :P

    Before you assemble, polish the inside of the MS housing and the outside of the MS. Smooth is always better.

    What should I use for that? Also, what exactly am I supposed to polish?

    Thanks guys!

    How do I put together a mainspring housing?

    in 1911-style Pistols

    Posted

    So I have never taken one apart before, so I'm not quite sure how to put it together...

    I searched on this sub forum, as well as all the other ones, and even youtubed it, but couldn't find out how to assemble it.

    Here are the parts I bought...

    Mainspring cap

    Mainspring housing pin

    Mainspring housing pin retainer

    And I have a 15lb and 17lb mainspring...

    I don't actually have the parts with me yet as they are on the way, but I want to be prepared so that I can assemble it and head to the range right when I finish it. I haven't shot in almost 2 months now and I'm really fiending to go :P

    What tools do I need?

    Thanks guys!

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