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michaels

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Posts posted by michaels

  1. major vs minor.....we should have have super major for us "real" men. We take the bite of the super major 45 and 10mm's, nothing but A's on every target.

    Yup, super major, the only way to go. Some of my 45's put a dent in the steel, they've got so much power to them...

    Ah, I'll wake up in a little while and claim that I never said any of this. Really I will.

    Minor with speedloaders, that's the ticket...

    michael sousa

  2. It works as long as your hands are big enough for the large frame g20. I have a bunch of standard frame 40's and large framed guns, my hands are about in the middle. I like the g20 with the 40 barrel in it, but watch the conversion barrel for having a short chamber, mine needs to get reamed out more. I load a little longer for the big framed gun than for my standard frames and the rounds don't always seat in the chamber fully. I need them a little longer to work 100% in the 10mm mags. Other than that, I love the big gun. i also use a g21 with the stock slide and with Nik's long slide on it, very soft shooting gun. Good luck with it.

    michaels

  3. Warren is spot on with his info...

    refer back a few years ago and i posted how to make a cutter for cutting your 38 special brass down to short or long colt size. So far I've cut close to 1800 cases down and they work just fine. Load them up with 170 bear creeks and you've got a nice icore load, about 124 to 128 pf depending on barrel length. Never have to buy short colt agains, just use that range 38 that people leave behind.

    michaels

  4. Dave, a really good gunsmith can convert the gun to the 10 round version, or if you're close to S&W they can do it there. I had mine done there and a couple others that I know did the same. Really makes a good gun into a great gun. Plus you can now get the DS-10's and have a great rimfire steel gun.

    michaels

  5. So I ended up buying a LW G24 slide a while back and finally have gotten around to mounting and shooting it. I got the no-hole version so I could have it cut later... but have been having some problems with it (out of battery using anything less than stock spring) and it is very bouncy due to its heavy weight. How much does yours weigh? Stock? Custom? Any particular place to get the weight out- front I assume.

    without barrel & recoil assembly but with the cut out on top, it's 1.06 lbs - sights are steel dawson rear and steel dawson front.

    michaels

  6. Well now, I called the number and Walt's old message is still on the machine (kinda wierd) maybe one of his kids is still in the business. Or maybe Walt is hiding out.

    michaels

    His sons are now running the business.

    thanks Mike, found his obit on the web, really was a cool guy, had his finish on a couple of guns and cylinders, he was great to work with.

    michaels

  7. WE Birdsong & Associates (Black-T)

    1435 Monterey Road

    Florence, MS 39073

    (601) 939-7448

    This gentleman puts on a coating that is used by the US navy, he loves old guns and is a hoot to work with. Give Walter a call and tell him what you've got, he's a great guy to work with.

    michael

    Yeah...uh....that's going to be an awkward phone call. Walter Birdsong died two years ago.

    Well now, I called the number and Walt's old message is still on the machine (kinda wierd) maybe one of his kids is still in the business. Or maybe Walt is hiding out.

    michaels

  8. WE Birdsong & Associates (Black-T)

    1435 Monterey Road

    Florence, MS 39073

    (601) 939-7448

    This gentleman puts on a coating that is used by the US navy, he loves old guns and is a hoot to work with. Give Walter a call and tell him what you've got, he's a great guy to work with.

    michael

  9. Like everyone says a G17 is the gun to get. Mine has won a few matches with just Dawson sights and a lightened striker spring. I have a 34 I use for Production with a take-up adjuster and over-travel stop plus the lighter striker spring. The trigger is little better but it not different enough to change my performance.

    I just shot a GSSF match down in Richmond Cali. yesterday, my buddy the MD saidthey were gonna get 300+ guns to show up, and my shooting buddy and i were both shooting 3 guns and were done by noon.

    I heard they had about 340, a huge turnout! I got there Sunday morning at 8:45, and there were 20+ people waiting to sign up or check in. By 9:15 there were 5-10 people on each bay with most shooting more than one division. The exception was the plates, funny how people don't like to start there.

    Funny how some people won't bring their teenage daughter to a GSSF match, but then I wouldn't want to see how close she is to catching up to me, might make me feel a little older.. :-)

    I'd throw my 2 cents in and say get a G22, more of a versitle gun, you can use if for USPSA and IDPA along with GSSF, heck, we'll even let you bring it and shoot our ICORE matches at Richmond with it (no more than 8 rounds in the gun though)

    michaels

  10. Set the primer seating punch/bushing assembly upside-down on a bench.Push down on the retaining skirt enough to allow you to remove the e-clip from the bottom of the punch. This allows removal of the skirt and spring. The punch and bushing are pressed together, and won't come apart.

    thanks gary, i'll give that try...

    mike

  11. I took that assembly out about 4 months ago and cleaned it, (small pistol) and noticed it was looking weird. After maybe 500 rounds, the rod was sticking up just enough to keep the shell plate from turning. Since I have a 2nd 650 setup for large primer, I took the small primer assembly for that one and swapped it in. So far it's been running good except for me wanting to get the primers a little deeper. I have the spare parts kit(s), but I'm wondering how you get that spring changed out?

    michael sousa

  12. thanks guys for the info, the bench is not bolted to anything, but is has about 800lbs of lead in the bottom shelfs and it doesn't move at all, I've noticed that after about 100 rounds loaded, the bolt for the shell plate loosens up about a 1/4 turn, but never seems to get any looser. I tighten it back up each time a load primers. I'll check the height of the primer push rod and see if its coming up very far past the underside of the shell plate. If nothing changes there, I'll try shimming the bracket underneath and see what happens.

    michael sousa

  13. The 650 will seat the primers as deep as the primer pockets in the brass will allow a primer to go. Any deeper and you will crush the primer and might just set it off.

    CYa,

    Pat

    I dunno Pat, I keep hearing about getting an .002-.004 extra depth by shimming, with the differenence is primer pockets between brass makes, there should be some type of adjustment like the 1050 has. I tried to set a primed case off (welders mask & ear plugs in place) and couldn't do it on either of my 650's. The primer push rod is exactly flush, and it's well lubed. I've had a lot of shooters/reloaders look at my brass and suggest a little deeper primer set, but they were all 1050 users. I really hate to have to upgrade just to get a primer set into the case a little deeper.

    mike sousa

  14. I've tried the search function but to no avail, I keep hearing about seating primers a little deeper into the case, this being needed for tuned revolver actions. All the info I read was about shiming the primer seating assembly so it will push the primer in a little deeper than normal. I've looked at the assembly and don't see any obvious way to "shim" it. Anybody got an idea how?

    thanks,

    Michael Sousa

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