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MARKAVELI

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Posts posted by MARKAVELI

  1. You don't really need small base dies UNLESS you plan on reforming 5.56 brass to make 300 BLK cases. They stress the brass more than regular dies and you'll get fewer reloads out of each case. The Lee Pacesetter set will work just fine if you're not reforming and it comes with the Lee Factory Crimp Die which a lot of people use if they're crimping.

    On the other hand, if you are reforming cases, the RCBS dies are a great choice.

    So does the small base die for the 300aac blackout reforms the die after its been cut down?

    Can you use the small base die even when your casing are already been formed?

    On the stuck casings, I load for 223/5.56 using rcbs with very little to no lube, and never had a stuck casing, harder to run but never got stuck (knock on wood). For the rcbs dies in 300 blk out have you ever had any issues? I have switched from a Dillon sizer die cause of that issue.

  2. I purchased a Troy M4OEM sling plate but when I tried to install it it seems that th sling mount touches the back side of the lower before I can tighten it. has anyone ever had a problem like this?

    I have the castle nut as far as I can loosen to get the stock fully inserted to where its supposed to be. I hate to cut it down sling plate. My lower is a multi cal by Areo Precision. .. thanks in advance

  3. I got more homework to do.... I do my own reloading and will be reloading for 223/5.56. I am thinking to go with a 18in barrel (not sure the of the manufacturer).I am going with a stripped Areo Precision upper the price is nice so is the finish. What is the difference between a low profile carrier group and a full Carrier?

  4. Miculek comp=probably the best priced comp on the market. Not nice and shiny but does the job.

    Fail zero, Ds chrome or any nickel boron bcg is nice to have if you can afford it. It's just so much easier to clean.

    For home defense, use the shotgun that you are using for 3 gun.

    thanks. . So what are most competitors running their Comp rifle barrel length? Or what is most common. I will use a shotgun for hd..
  5. While we all want the very best, I'd try to keep it fairly low key...unless you are shooting a ton of matches. You mentioned HD. Combined with the insight above, re: more guys shooting 14.5" and 16" for the quick index, I'd say that's your limit. Good comp, good 1-4, good mount and a stock that works for you and you should be set.

    I dont plan on being a pro at 3gun and I'd also like to teach my wife and kids. This is our 1st AR for us.. I been reading youtube ing the past few days since... thanks. .

  6. You asked a mouthful! .223/5.56 is the one thing I doubt there will be much debate on for 3 gun. I run an 18" barrel but the winds are changing a bit on the longer barrels. Some of the top shooters are running pinned 14.5 and 16s because they index faster. I have run both Carbine and Mid Length gas system with the corresponding buffers. I really like the mid-length gas and the rifle length buffer with the JP BCG, fire control and buffer. Upper is VLTOR, the handguard is Midwest Industries and the comp is SJC Titan. This combo is very smooth... Here is a link to the upper I am using with a video showing it in action:

    http://hawkeyeordnance.com/hawkeye-ordnance-3gun-upper.html

    Just some ideas for you - hope they help!

    M

    I might be asking for a lot....

    What is the difference between mid length and rifle length gas tube's?

  7. Decided to build my first AR. I just received my lower Receiver from Brownells and my local FFL. I like to build it for 3GUN competition, target shooting and if possible home defense. I need a little help deciding what caliber, what parts that are reliable and dependable and what parts I should stay clear from? Gas driven or piston driven? What uppers, barrels to look at ect. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance. .

    For get to add, the Lower is from Areo Precision muli cal. Is it normal if you look towards the back bottom behind the grip of the receiver there looks like a defect in the mold or casting?

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  8. Being too cautious can induce just as many mistakes as not being cautious. If there is a problem with your powder drop, correct it first and DO NOT reload on it until that is corrected. Any time you stop your process, it's very easy to get off track and forget the exact point you left off. It's best to load up 100 (if that is what your primer tube holds), complete the entire process, finish that round of 100 completely (empty loader), then check powder/tighten things/etc. so you are at a good stopping point. If you are stopping in the middle of your process to check powder, then continue on, that's where many, many mistakes are made.

    Thanks for the comments. I'll definitely do some data collection to ensure it's not a drop problem.

    BTW. Fired 150 prior to incident and have pulled another 150 from the same lot of 400, and haven't found an over or under charge.

    As stated before I do plunk test every round. Any tight fits go straight to the disassembly coffee can.

    +1 you could have double charged it in your checking powder process. do you use a crono after you wip up a load? what reloader are you using? I'm sure you know, but .40's are hot already. Power pistol is on the slow side and can get closeto the velocity you are looking for and easy to spot a double charge. and correct me if I'm wrong but is not Berry's lead plated & treated like lead bullets? That is what I got on my press now... Keep us informed what Glock Services has to say and what your next loads that you run through the G35 I too am curious on why this has happen.. Good luck be safe &.glad your okay..

  9. Finally refinished my Glock27 with Cerakote's H series Zombie Green & Graphite Black. The process is tedious but with patience(something I don't have) it's a great finish if you are curious about refinishing any of your firearms. I have tried duracoatand & it is a good product but does not hold it's finish like cerakote. WELL! What do you think?

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