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Posts posted by ksshooter223
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Enjoy it while you can!
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Hi
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+ for midway USA bag lots of room and it has lasted
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Their bikes are top notch!
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I had to check their website out, very nice
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Thanks this helps
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I guess that's a bit off MSRP
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So maybe I should modify my question completely.
What is the best value in a $1000 category for scopes.
My rifle will be back soon from the builder. I cannot wait to see it and to show it off a bit. You guys will be surprised on who the builder is. He is very well known on this forum.
A vote for the Vortex PST here. I have one as well as a few Nightforce scopes and love it. The Nightforce is better but it also costs a lot more. For its price range the Vortex is hard to beat. If you can save up to 1200 however you can always find a used Nightforce NSX minus the zero stop and high speed turrents for around 1200 on Snipershide.
Pat
I second a used NXS.
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With precision rifles like M40's and SPR etc we break them in. The chrome lined barrels don't really require breakin. I would simply suggest cleaning every 50 rounds or so stripping copper from the barrel till it stops stripping alot of copper. Some don't require any, some take a little bit longer. For most chrome lined barrels I wouldn't worry about it much. Just clean her up, lube / grease as needed. Send rounds down range. Try not to nuke the barrel lol.
Good advice here...The only rifles i strip and clean with a strict regimine while breaking in are precision rifles.
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Hey Guys I have stumbled across what I Think could be a screaming good deal but don't have the cash. . . So before I told a buddy to go grab it I Thought I would touch base with those smarter than I am about current value.
This STI Trojan (.45 ACP) is used excellent condition. Even the Firing pin stop where the hammer strikes has 99.9% of its finish. Gun has little evidence of wear anywhere and is like new in box. While I am not positive I know all the stock features it appears to be completely stock. Red Fiber Optic front site and Adjustable rear
The Store has a 619 price tag on the gun. If I am doing my match correctly that is approximately 62-65% of new cost.
Before anyone asks if my buddy doesn't got get it by Monday yes I will respond to a PM about location of the Gun.
Retread.
Yep about new price!
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I have the Sprinfield Range Officer and a STI Trojan 9mm. The RO runs all the reloads and hollow points I feed it. The Trojan won't feed hollow points or 147gr flat nosed bullets. They all dive into the feed ramp and stop.
Should I send the Trojan back to STI? I love the Trojan and think its a great gun but I think of it as a range/competition gun only. All my guns are in the safe with an empty chamber but full mag of hollow points in case I have to grab them in a hurry, except the Trojan. It just sits there with no mag.
As for the orginial question, looking for seld defense and hunting sidearm. I would go with the Springfield MC Operator. It has a fixed night sights and a light rail so you can attach a flashlight. It has a good coating on it and front cocking serrations.
It's good to see a rail gun with an actual light.
If it were me I would steer clear of anything with MIM parts and Series 80 parts. Your milage may vary.
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I have the Sprinfield Range Officer and a STI Trojan 9mm. The RO runs all the reloads and hollow points I feed it. The Trojan won't feed hollow points or 147gr flat nosed bullets. They all dive into the feed ramp and stop.
Should I send the Trojan back to STI? I love the Trojan and think its a great gun but I think of it as a range/competition gun only. All my guns are in the safe with an empty chamber but full mag of hollow points in case I have to grab them in a hurry, except the Trojan. It just sits there with no mag.
As for the orginial question, looking for seld defense and hunting sidearm. I would go with the Springfield MC Operator. It has a fixed night sights and a light rail so you can attach a flashlight. It has a good coating on it and front cocking serrations.
It's good to see a rail gun with an actual light.
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Anyone running one of these in IDPA or other shoots? I would love to see a picture with an actual light attached. Seems like a lot of gun for the $
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For 3-gun, looks like it would be a decent upgrade from my current 870. I did have a bit of sticker shock however, what is the best price anyone has found?
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Yes just spread the brass out on a dry surface and give it a few day.
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Well this is all good info. I am really leaning towards the 1050. I would keep it set up for small primers and run everything else through the 550. Which means I would run mostly .223 through the 1050, looks like I have to put more pen to paper since the majority of my reloads are going to be small primer which = more tool heads ($) like mentioned. I wish I could afford 2 1050...!! That would be a good start, did I mention I am recently married in the last year? lol I feel good about getting away with what I do now.
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I still can't decide if I should go all out with the 1050 or save the funds with a 650? I already have a 550 which has suited me well, however I am ready to step up and could use the extra press to keep from switching out primer size. I know I will hear replies like how much I plan to shoot in a year..not nearly what the 1050 is rated at. Also the warranty difference means little to me. This being said has anyone purchased a 1050 over a 650 considering future price increase? I know my Dillons prices continue to rise, not hating this is a fact of life just wondering. Also I already have the dillon swagging tool however would appreciate the difference in primer feeding and swaging on the 1050. The 650 is substantially less in price and I am looking at putting a bullet feeder on it at some time down the road.
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I would assume it has a lot of factory crap grease on it. Did it make a noticeable difference on how smooth the action is?
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I have a old school SBE I considered this also however at the time it was more cost effective for me to go with a FN SLP MK1. The barrel upgrade was cost prohibitive for me.
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Welcome to the forum.
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I am getting back into shooting since taking a break relocating. Good to see all the new people on here. I am currently working on my reloading man cave.
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"Your thumbs aren't really supposed be touching the frame. "
I haven't posted on this forum yet. But I just had to after reading the above comment. You seem to be awfully opinionated about everything. People get on this forum and many others to give advice and opinions of WHAT WORKS FOR THEM. Just because you read or see one particular method everything else is wrong? I have been shooting like this for years and if you look at a few of the best training DVD's out there (not naming names but it should be obvious) they are using the same thumb over thumb grip with pressure on the frame. I am not saying this is right or wrong...it's what works best for you.
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Well I am sending my trigger group into Michael for the weld and milling on the lifter. I am excited to get it back. I will probably polish the lifter with the dremel tool and hopefully be over this hurdle and ready for the season.
Edited to add: "With all the skin on my thumb intact."
My new race gun
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
I really like the color combos!