blkbrd
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Posts posted by blkbrd
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I have a total of 12 ARs and always grab the JP CTR-02 for 3 gun matches and everything else. It is heads and shoulders above the rest and I have some very nice ARs. It will be money well spent.
+1 JP 18" for hoser matches 20" for long range.
Although I use standard lowers not CTR-02"s
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True blue is in no way slower than HS6
Powder charts built on a standard pressure dont really tell the whole story when pressures start to rise.
True blue is fine for a long gun but when you start to push it in a shorty it gets scary fast.
HS6, Autocomp, Silhouette, 3N37 ext are good choices depending on barrel length and bullet weight.
Search function is your friend, remember 9mm loads are very barrel length and port dependent.
I love HS6 in my short gun with holes, but in my full lenght gun its dirty.
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Fiction.
However a piston air rifle will destroy a scope built for normal recoil due to the reverse recoil impulse.
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Where are you located.
Depends on the rifle setup and brand.
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The biggest concern with dirt/mud berms is how much dirt you mind in your mouth when you shoot.....
I have shot some matches where you were spitting out dirt for quite sometime after shooting a stage.
+1
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If you didnt see the results, nothing happened?
I have seen case failures where some thought the gun blew up, but nothing was wrong with the gun just the case.
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There are many alloys of titanium just like there are many alloys of steel and aluminum.
If you wanted it to last forever a chromium or cobalt nickel based superalloy is the answer It will only be $500+ for just the comp.
Steel alloys can have a good machinablity, low cost and long life. The more expensive and PITA it is to machine the better the life, just the way it is.
There are many titanium alloys for different purposes. My bet is most that become comps are not the best alloys for avoiding erosion due to availability and machinability.
A quality Ti comp will last as long as the barrel, so pick which ever one feels best for you. IMHO, I like a Ti comp on a 5" gun and a steel comp on a shorty.
Hard anodizing on aluminum is not really hard at all when you start talking about high pressure particulate erosion, but they are easy to replace so if you want super light and are willing to pay, just call it an expendable item.
Design is a whole different topic for gunsmiths with input from top shooters and maybe a gas turbine engineer.
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Still cant find any results or photos?
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Listed loads do seem a bit light.
You are verifying weights by throwing 10 charges on a scale and checking average aren't you? You do have a scale?
For loads that light you may want to consider a lighter recoil spring. Stovepipes could very well be from light loads.
A chronograph is a must.
Most competitors prefer a fairly fast burning powder for light loads. I/E HS-6 is more of an open gun major powder that is way dirty and loud at minor pressures. A faster powder will generate more pressure and will burn cleaner.
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What I like about the synthetic Mobil-1 as compared to some other oils or ATF combinations, it that it doesn't smell as much like an engine.
Of course you guys are really limiting yourself with that stuff.
If you wanted to shoot really fast....
Avoid plastic...So that means you can't use this with Glocks?
Turbine oil is not anywhere near the same thing as motor oil.
It will melt many plastics, super thin, nasty, stinks, does not have the detergents or additive packages as galling and friction is not the problem, heat is. You don't change turbine oil, you just add extra as its deposited around the country.
I like Brownells gun oils mixed with slide glide. But Mobil 1 works in a pinch.
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Its just the mixed brass not really anything to worry about.
Adjust your belling so you just don't shave any bullets and you will be fine. Shaving will be indicated by little half moon pieces of bullet brass or lead in your loaded round box or cleaning towel.
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You said 308 LaRue accurate and economical in the same sentence??
I like 175 SMK's and 155 lapua's, neither is economical but sub MOA easily.
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Technically, anytime you sell any reloaded ammo, you are breaking the law.
This is wrong.
I will not give legal advice for reasons I won't disclose on this forum. But I will say that this is a commonly-believed myth, and it's wrong.
True; The big question is whether your buddies wife is going to sue you into bankruptcy because he had a squib then racked another one in and pulled the trigger, wasn't wearing glasses, but its still your fault?
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Second on what the smith wants to use.
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Bullet nose can also hit it causing it to pop out. Trim to avoid this.
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Unless your retired, work is really the bigger consideration and Texas beats both Phoenix and Tampa/Orlando.
Lived in both Arizona and Florida and prefer Florida. Again work is the driving factor if I could I would live in Asheville NC.
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Can go with either, but no holes and HS6 or Autocomp pistol is fine.
To give you an example my HS6 loads for 168PF in my long gun only make 155 in my short gun with holes, my short gun loads make 178 in my long gun.
As always start low and chrono for your gun.
The only advantage for me to using rifle was so I didn't mix my rifle and pistol primers on the same press. Something tells me a pistol primer in 223 would suck.
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Shoe goo will hold them in incredibly well. The stuff is amazing, not like cheap silicone.
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You are trimming correct? If not things can get interesting as it is amazing how much rifle brass can grow.
The Giraud trimmer is the best I have used and makes case prep a breeze.
A good inside chamfer is all thats needed for flat base or boat tails.
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I looked at the 1x8 Leupold at the SHOT too and asked about how long it would be until it was available and was told late 3rd quarter. The 1x8 with on a LuRue mount is what I will be looking at when it comes out.
Until then I think the XTR Burris on a LuRue is going to be it for me this year.
Too bad Leupold has it priced at over 3 grand.
Its nice but not that nice. -
Plain old cold rolled steel. Cold blue will touch it up but Dillon would probably send you a new one if you want.
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Have had quite a few case blowouts in the past few years of loading 9mm major, also a few with very fast powders in 9mm production, Major 40 and 45.
The first 3 are all subject areas. Almost all of the cases upon magnified inspection looked like they were cracked before they let go on me.
Have found numerous hairline cracks in cases at the case web juncture. Had to toss 15K cases of nice looking brass as it was fired from open bolt machine guns and was trash. If you think the Glock belly is bad you should see what some machine guns do to the web.
Master class shooter does not really mean a darn thing as far as reloading sense.
Averaging 10 case charges is plenty for weights. If your getting to much variation is technique.
If you cant get a solid power factor reading with 2 10 round strings something is wrong with your ES and SD. Most of my guns will shoot slower and slower as the session goes and the barrel heats.
Flashover was debunked years ago. Think about the dynamics of the fulminate flame rushing through the flash hole into the powder, in a full case it literally blasts through the center igniting it like a model rocket engine, where if it just blows across the top it actually initiates a slower burn.
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Its not a crimp die. Its a flare removal die.
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Is there anyway you can make a separate forum area for Open Gun loads vs Production / IDPA loads.
Every time I read the forums I notice guys mixing the two together. Having major and minor in the same forum just seems to create a hazard for newer reloaders.
Its nice but not that nice.
Bear Defense/Avoidance
in Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum
Posted
In New Mexico dont worry about bears, worry about 2 legged critters.