hovbuild
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Posts posted by hovbuild
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I reload and have to Cull my short .45 brass out at or below .885 for my premier II to have no light strikes.
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buying a 9mm spartan or a slightly tunes Trojan. I own a LB .45 premier II and think it is the bomb! But want a 9mm single stack 1911 that will be as accurate and as well built. I am looking for accuracy and reliability. I have heard that the LB 9mm has had some reliability problems but the 600 dollar difference is also an issue.
Thanks, Bill
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I just tested these with wlp and flp on the same loads and all the fps are within 15 fps.
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I load a 255 lswc for pins in a .45 acp. OAL 1.205, 5.3 unique, winchester primers. These run out of a 5" barrel around 875 fps.
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I have a 5.5 threaded bully barrel on mine (1x8 twist). It shoots cci quite well just a tad better than the 5" barrel that came with it. I tried some sk match ( now sk match rifle, wolf wxtra match is the same) and it shot groups at 50 feet under 1/2 inch. The cci's were 3/4- 1 inch. I have a ultra dot LT on it but it is only good for indoors because it washes out in sunlight (4moa).
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I use a 4 dot inside at 50' but outside were we shoot pins it washes out. The sun during these matches are at my back. The 8 dots are fine outside but in the rim fire class the tie breaker is a .45 piece of brass and we only got 4 seconds to get the 5 pins and the brass. My question is do you center (through the dot) the impact area while zeroing in or do you "top of the dot" zero in your c-mores. Of course the 8 on center fire and pins only I usually try and zero in in the center of the dot.
One of my guns had miserable ejection problems ( S&W 1911 with the external extractor). Worked on that until the cows came home and would still get a FTF every now and then using the serendipity. I did switch to a weigland to gain some height but I still had problems. Yes I do use range brass. I installed a Quinn II and the added benefit was acquiring the dot so quickly, also no more ftf!
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I have never tried clays but I load heavy for pin shoots. 5.3-5.5 unique under a 255 lswc running at 850fps out of a 5" barrel. I do hear that clays are for light loads. If this is true I will stick with the unique for these loads.
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Our pin tables are rusted steel 4'x5' and the pins are set up along the front of the tables. While fresh pins can be shot with a .40 they are a real challenge later on when they get heavy with lead. We usually have 4 categories and about 35 shooters so towards the end of the day you better be shooting on the sweet spot with some heavy loads.
I like a .45 255 gr lswc, running about 850'ps. These will usually get the job done if you do your part.
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Bill - I was using the Lee FCD and was getting a lot of build up after 50 shots the gun was not accurate. I called Precision Bullets and they told me to stop using the FCD as it would udersize the bullet. I followed their advise and no more fowling and buildup. This was on a 40 not a 45 but I followed same advice in advance on 45. I use a taper crimp die.
Here is what their web site says:
RELOADING TIPS
Make sure to have a good bell on the case so not to shave off the coating during the seating process.
Do not seat and crimp the bullets in the same die. Use a separate taper crimp die.
We highly recommend Dillon reloading equipment.
Do not use a roll crimp or Lee Factory Taper Crimp Dies.
The roll crimp will cut through the coating. You must use a taper crimp die.
The Lee Factory Taper Crimp Die will undersize the bullets causing accuracy and fouling problems.
Most of the time a heavier crimp will work better.
Top of Page
http://www.precisionbullets.com/ got to the FAQ section.
Cool Thanks, but I still don't quite understand the part of the lft re sizing the bullet. Are they talking the lead head or the cartridge as a whole. As I stated I re size all my lead bullets before I load them. Bell the casing a bit and then set up the taper crimp to remove the belling. How in the world does this change the size of the lead bullet. I measure them after and they are all .452 and even when I pull the bullet there in no evidence of the size of the bullet being smaller. I do a lot of data work with my loads and shoot pins with a 255 swc and BE using 200swc. Some days I shoot 400 rounds and don't really notice any extra fouling and or inaccuracy's. In the 255 I use unique and can go 300-600 rounds before it needs a cleaning.
I'll load up some using a different taper die and compare them with the lfd. I'll shoot 100 of each cleaning before using the second 100. Compare FPS and groups.
I appreciate the help but having a hard time grasping the statements made by precision bullets. I don't use their bullets or I should say I never had the chance too.
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I have had both and in spite of its clunky action I find the newer one throws more consistant charges.
Charlie
+1 I load a lot of unique and the new "clunky" thrower is the ticket with this powder. I also polished and reamed the powder funnel on both throwers and they work great. The newer one is better with flake and extruded powders than the older one.
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Most SWC's are loaded with about a thumbnail of full diameter above the case Rim. In the case of my Preecision SWC's it comes out 1.260. Bullet diameter should be @.452.
TightGroup burns very hot feel your gun after a few shots, that's where the smoke comes from. I used TightGroup with jacketed 200gr in 40 at 4.2gr so 4.0 gr even in the 45 sounds like enough to get it moving. I tried a lot of powders in 45 and my personal preference with 200gr SWC is Clays at 4.2-4.3gr. WST at 4.7-4.8gr will make major also with a 200gr SWC.
It is possible to over crimp a lead bullet making its diameter under size and the gas escapes around the bullet instead of pushing it out. If you are using a Lee FCD to crimp this will undersize the bullet use only a taper crimp die on lead or moly bullets.
I have loaded maybe 10000 rounds of 200 swc and 255 swc and used the FCD from lee. I have not seen any "under sizing" of the lead bullets using the crimp die from FCD. My crimps are .471-.470. I would like some clarification on how this die is under sizing the bullet. I also re size all my store bought lead with a .452 sizer before loading them. Most cast bullets can be inconsistent.
Thanks Bill
Most reliable 1911 out of the box...looking for input from trainers...
in 1911-style Pistols
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I have one also and was great until I tried mounting a serendipity to it! I had to go to a side mount to stop the stove piping. Two smiths and I tried to no avail to tune that damn extractor. I will never again buy an external 1911 gun again even though this is quite a shooter now with a fitted bushing, trigger job, c-more and small radius firing pin retainer.