dagger10k
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Posts posted by dagger10k
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I agree! I've been using range pickup brass for over a year in my SV doing that, never case gauged. The only ones that haven't gone into battery are the ones that I forget to crimp. I just use the standard dillion dies for every other station (in a a 550).
If you don' t have access to a roll sizer, then buy a Lee standard sizing die for .40/10mm. It does not have the same taper that the Dillon unit does. It will go down and resize the bulge whereas the Dillon sizer won't all the time.
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Wow, congratulations! That's an amazing accomplishment. I've just started crossfit. Hope it works out as well for me as it did for you.
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I just started doing crossfit myself. A little tough with all my various joint injuries, but seems fun so far! I'll see how it's worked out in a few months...
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The striker spring pushes forward on the trigger, so a lighter spring will decrease your pull weight (and possibly cause mis-fires, as well as weakening your reset).
The trigger spring pulls back on the trigger, so a stronger spring will decrease your pull weight (and make your reset weaker)
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Well I could FIT 21 rounds in my Glock 20 mag (with arredondo extensions), back when that was my limited gun, but this is what happens when my buddy tried to use it in a match:
(at 29 seconds)Not so good!
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You can do pretty well in limited with a Glock 35 without many mods on it. I'd try to spring for at least 1 extended mag if you really wanna be competitive.
Check out the gun BJ Norris got 4th (98.38%) at the 2011 limited nationals with
No magwell on there!
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I shot this one in 3.27 yesterday in production for a 100% classifier, apparently. O_O
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I'd try to at least get your gun sighted in before you shoot a match. There's nothing more frustrating than having a gun that doesn't hit where you're aiming, and knowing it's not is a real confidence killer too.
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That's on of the reasons why I use all stock springs... On my 34 a weak striker spring alone will cause the trigger safety to not engage if let out slowly.
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I say neither of those options are particularly great. Fast As are the best, really.
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Here's my infinity!
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Honestly, I would not call that a decent grip. That guys weak hand is rather low, and not cammed forward very much. Notice the angle of his weak hand thumb?
I've attached a still from the Todd Jarrett video you just linked to. Notice who's grip looks more like his?
I don't know where this re-gripping stuff you're talking about comes from. I know I don't do it, and I'm pretty sure Sperman doesn't either.
So.... You grip your gun w/ your right hand to draw... Then... You loosen your grip to hold the gun w/ your weak hand, then... You re-grip it backwards?
Your right hand thumb should already have disengaged the thumb safety and laid on top of the safety paddle by the time your weak hand is "Set..."
It's more of a "Cradling" action... IMHO the grip I see in these pics is a bit awkward, and not a particularly viable way to go...
I found a quick example online of a descent, perhaps slightly loose grip..
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I'm betting that Sperman's grip is pretty close to mine, and I can tell you my strong hand is in the exact same place when I am holding it with one hand or two. The only difference is that the thumb sits a bit lower without my left hand to bump it up, but the thumb isn't really a very important part of the grip anyway (IMO).
Why would you think the gun would fall on the floor?
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Are you guys suggesting attaching 1911 grips to my 2011? Is that something you can do?
Also, I used to shoot a G20 in Limited. This is the gun I switched to. Advantages and disadvantages both ways I guess...
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Alright... well if I ever figure out a solution I'll let you know!
Yep, looks about the same as what I've got going on. How did you end up dealing with it?
I accept the fact that my grip is less than ideal, and work on improving in other areas. I thought about sticking my hand against the belt sander, but decided it wasn't worth it.
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Yep, looks about the same as what I've got going on. How did you end up dealing with it?
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I can't drill my SVI frame
You may like these thumb guards by EGW.
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Yeah I'm kinda afraid I might have to get this custom made... not looking forward to the cost of that, and I don't even know who I'd talk to to get it done. Thanks for letting my shoot your gun again. That thing sure was soft...
Also, you live in sf? Want to carpool to Richmond sometime? I'm right near chinatown.
Dagger,
On my SV gun (the heavy 6" that you shot recently after a match at Richmond), Brandon somehow setup the thumb safety so that it requires considerable effort to engage but no unusual effort to disengage. My best guess is that he might have deepened the detent in the thumb safety where it mates with the plunger. If that's not it then I don't know how he did it, but someone else may know if there is a mechanical means to how this might be done.
Other than that, I'd say you're looking at a one off custom lever/weld job to get something like you describe.
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Sperman's got it right. My thumb is already above the safety, but I can't actually physically push on it, cause my other hand is in the way. I've attached a photo of my grip (sorry, this is the best I can do.)
I also saw those Swensons, but moving the pad would be a lot of work and probably outside my abilities. I'm really hoping there's some ready made solution somewhere...
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So I am pretty sure I know what the answer's going to be already, but it can't hurt to ask.
I have big meaty hands, and like to grip as high as possible, the base of my left thumb really likes to pop up the left side safety on just about any 1911 (or 2011). There's barely a limited or open gun out there that I can grip without making it impossible to shoot. (cause the safety is on.)
Even on my limited gun, where I've cut a lot of material off the safeties, if I roll my elbows up, the safeties pop on every time. So... what I really need is the exact opposite of this: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6677/Product/1911-AUTO-LOW-MOUNT-THUMB-SAFETY
I need something where the pad of the safety is mounted HIGHER than normal, high enough to clear my hands. Does anyone know if anything like that exists? I've looked all over and can't find anything.
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This isn't a rifle,but it should give you some idea. The time it takes for the mechanical stuff is likely FAR greater. You could make yourself a cup of coffee while that hammer is falling. That said, while follow-through is obviously important, I still wonder how much of it is really BEFORE the shot, as opposed to after.
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You'd have to have pretty fast fingers to do that, wouldn't you?
It's also keeping the trigger pressed to the rear until the recoil pulse is over instead of jumping off the trigger and disturing the rifle while the bullet is still in the barrel.
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Well since my buddy Dagger10k made master I guess I should play along too.
TY62845 - Production and Limited if I feel like it.
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1) Wow you guys shoot a lot! All calibers combined, rifle, pistol, and shotgun I'm pretty sure I came in under 10k for 2011.
2) I'm amazed that people actually keep count at all...
Shooting Right to Left
in Handgun Techniques
Posted
I'd certainly rather be pointed in the direction I want to go, as opposed to the opposite direction, so I agree with your friend on that one. Try some wide transitions with moving box to box (transition to left then go right, as opposed to transitioning right then going right), and see how that goes. I bet you'll see a bit of difference on the timer.