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G17fan

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Posts posted by G17fan

  1. On 6/6/2022 at 9:25 AM, ShredderTactical said:

    I use the springs below, made by TTI for their +5/6 basepads.  Wait for a sale if you can and load up so you have spares.  My last order was during a Black Friday sale a couple years ago at 30% off!  Been running TTI +5/6 basepads for my Glock 17 in USPSA for several years and never any problems with the springs.  I do change them out every 1-2 years, depending on volume of ammo shot.
    https://tarantacticalinnovations.com/glock-full-size-5-6-and-xd-m-3-4-replacement-spring/

    I found the MBX 140 springs. They are flared out at the bottom to prevent the spring from buckling. Too then to the range and 175rds later, perfection! Worked just fine with stock Glock follower! 

  2. 5 minutes ago, CClassForLife said:

    As some mentioned above, just use 140mm springs. Only in rare situations is it worthwhile to consider extra spring pressure from using an oversized spring. For example, if you're using really hot ammo that cycles the slide too quickly for the mag to catch up.

    Thanks!

  3. 2 hours ago, Johnny_Chimpo said:

     

    Why are you using 170 mm long springs in a magazine that is 140 mm long?  Do you think that maybe that's why the spring is binding up?

    Thought about that and I could have ordered the wrong ones. I’ll cut a couple coils off and retest. 

  4. 3 minutes ago, deerslayer said:


    This.  You may need to lightly sand or dremel the bottom of the follower and/or the top of the basepad to ensure the follower tracks smoothly in the mag tube.  

    Is 170mm to long and should be 140mm with a +5?

  5. Hello, I have new mags, ISMI 170mm springs with a +5 base pad. Problem is after about 13rds the spring buckles. It’ll take 22rds but only 5 will come out under spring pressure and then the rest fall out. When I take base pad off I can see spring tweaked. 
     

    Help please! 

  6. 1 hour ago, WFargo said:

    Yes, the buff in fact short strokes the slide a bit.

    I use the blue plastic buffs. 

    With my 1911's in 9mm this 'disables' the sling-shot method for slide-lock reloads, but I use the slide stop on slide-lock reloads so no problem there. 

    The Limited and Open 2011's don't stay open on empty mags so no problem there. 

    I have tried to see / feel the difference between shooting with or without a buff.  I do not notice a difference to be honest. 

    A fellow Classic shooter in the Netherlands does use lighter bullets, light recoil spring and buffs to short stroke and create a shorter/faster cycle and seems really satisfied with this set up.  Again for me, it's difficult to notice any significant change. 

     

    Thank you sir!

  7. 2 minutes ago, WFargo said:

    I have buffs in my two competition 1911's in 9mm, in my .40 limited 2011 and in my Open 9 major. 

    None of them have ever given any problems after many thousands of rounds. 

    So as they are not causing any problems for me, why not use them, right? It will for sure dampen impact so, good thing, right? 


    agreed! What about the short stroke of the slide? Also are aluminum ones better than the squishy ones? I’ve read they bounce 

  8. 6 minutes ago, zzt said:

    I do not use buffers.  For one, the short cycle is problematic and requires using a lighter recoil spring to allow enough dwell time at the end of the stroke.

     

    If you are using the proper recoil spring you do not need (or want) a buffer.  When testing recoil springs you start with heavy and go lighter if necessary.  What you are looking for is enough dwell time at the end of the stroke to allow the next round in the mag to fully rise into stripping position.  You also want to look at where your sights return.  If the sights return higher than you original POA, you need a heavier spring.  If the dip below POA, you need lighter.  If you change your load you'll have to go through this again.

     

    Properly sprung you will not damage a 1911/2011 by not using a buffer.  I'll give you an extreme example; Open guns.  You often read Open is hard on the gun.  Well, it can be if you are running the 7 and 8 lb. recoil springs many use.  It is no wonder they crack slides and beat the gun up.  I shoot major Open with 115 JHPs @ 1470fps.  I run 11 lb. springs in one gun and a 10 in the backup.  After two complete seasons with lots of practice, my main gun looks pristine.  No damage, or even marks on the VIS.  No battering or peening of the recoil rod head.  So after about 25k through, it still looks new inside.

    Good info also! Thanks!

  9. 11 minutes ago, Braxton1 said:

    Pro:  A little cushioning effect at the rear of the slide stroke.  I never bitch because a Buff gets tore up.  They are getting that way because they are doing their purported JOB (preventing a hard metal-to-metal crash).  In most guns, that metal-to-metal contact occurs when the spring is fully-compressed.  In some, it occurs when the Recoil Spring Tunnel in the slide makes hard contact with the corresponding part in the frame.  That is brutal....

     

    Con:  In some guns (or ALL guns when double-stacked or combined with an Aluminum buffer), it will shorten the stroke up so much that attempting to do the "sling-shot" method of slide release usually won't work.  The slide won't come back far enough to cam the Slide Catch out of the way.

     

    BS:  They shorten the stroke to the point where the gun is faster.  Hold up there, Hero...  You ain't THAT fast to even be able to notice that.  A 1911 strokes from hammer fall, completing the cycle, to being ready for another hammer fall in 0.05 seconds.  The gun is sitting there waiting patiently for your trigger finger to reverse direction twice (coming off the trigger and then coming back on) for at least another 0.05 seconds, in the best scenario.

     

    I believe that a Shok-Buff may give you a few more rounds before a Recoil Spring change would be necessary, but if you're changing those springs like you're supposed to be (every 3-4k), they're not absolutely critical to have.

    Good info! Thanks. 

  10. 11 minutes ago, gethirt said:

    In theory, and if you believe Wilson Combat, they will reduce the amount of punishment that the gun takes. I run SS major in .45 with a 14 pound recoil spring and I do use them. Even when they get pretty chewed up, I have never had one cause me any issues, so with as cheap as they are, I keep running them in the hope that I will get more life out of my guns. Give them a try. 

    What about this “short cycle” topic?

  11. 51 minutes ago, Kilrb said:

    I just ordered a set of the Armanov's as well. I have some of the G10 grips and have had Henning on my CZ's. I prefer the Metal grips as well


    Aren’t they in Europe? It doesn’t look like they make non ergo style either. I don’t really like that ergo look. 

  12. 17 minutes ago, thormx538 said:

     

    What is your setup? I run those basepads on CMC Powermags in my Sig Max that has a Dawson ICE standard gap magwell and it works perfectly.

    Hello, I have the ice mag well. With the base pad I showed above they stick past the mag well enough to be certain the mag seats! Do the Dawson’s do the same and stick below a little?

     

    Thank you

    B9237948-9BCB-46F5-8C67-91AA483346B2.jpeg

  13. 23 hours ago, G17fan said:

    No luck at Dawson. 

     

    On 5/16/2020 at 3:55 PM, Distant Thunder said:

    I believe Dawson Precision makes base pads for the Chip McCormick 8 round Power Mags. You can check at dawsonprecision.com to see if they have what you need.

     

    23 hours ago, G17fan said:

    No luck at Dawson. 

    Does anyone know if the Wilson Combat ones will work with CM?

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