COMATZD
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Posts posted by COMATZD
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Ok, so where would one find the proper test lengths for various springs? Does Wolf have this info or something?
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I got some of the Ear, Inc solid plugs about 5 years ago for when I ride my motorcycle and started using them to shoot with as well. I love them so much that I bought a set with speakers to use with my Ipod. I have been thinking about getting another pair with the passive filter so it would be easier to hear conversations.
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When it doesn't fall from a hit in the calibration zone, we refuse to call it a failure. Instead we bring out the
calibration gun and shoot it again.
We have, I think, the unwarranted belief that the result of this shot
provides any information on the state of the popper before the competitor
shot it once, twice , or however many times.
I would make the assumption that the competitor's shot was at least as
powerful as the calibration shot, and the popper failed to recognize that
power.
I think this is the key to this whole issue as well. At the club level power factor is usually taken at face value and in larger matches the chrono tells the truth. If a popper fails to fall from a proper hit, this seems to be a failure.
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For as long as I have been in this sport there have been issues with poppers. I have read most of the stuff in this thread in many forms over the years.
In this instance there are a few things that spring to mind;
1. The RO's adjusted the popper for several minutes after Randi shot and before the next competitor. The only reason to adjust the popper is to correct a problem. Therefore they knew a problem existed. There should be a mechanism in the rules to deal with this. If the RO has no authority to stop the shooter when they see a popper is not working then do they have the power to stop the shooter if they see a paper target has blown down in the wind? If they have the authority for the latter then they need it for the former.
2. Poppers should be set so that a hit in the calibration zone by MINOR ammo will cause the popper to fall. If the shooter hits the calibration zone of the popper and it does not fall then chrono the ammo. If the ammo makes it then the popper is at fault, simple logic. You then adjust the popper, re-calibrate with the match calibration ammo and proceed.
I'm a bit new to this, but I've seen problems with poppers as well.
I like BritinUSA's proposal with the addition of requiring at least two hits for #2. These two suggestions would allows RO's to make a REF call if they can clearly determine proper hits and/or allow the shooter to more fairly decide to move on or not. If you can chrono a sample of the ammo used, then one could argue that two proper hits have certainly tested the calibration of the popper, as shot. This goes back to the fact that an RO can visually inspect the equipment to determine REF.
It seems more fair to test an ammo sample (which theoretically won't change) than to test the popper which has now been affected by at least two hits.
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Do any of you know of a cheap or shareware program that will READ the input from a barcode reader (can borrow a USB one from work). I would like to use it to read the barcode on the DVDs that I have so that I can index a list of them.
Mark K
A barcode is just a different visual representation of characters (usually numbers). The scanner acts like a keyboard to the computer, if you open any program you can type into, the scanner will 'dump' the scan data in just as if you typed it. Almost any program will 'read' scanner information (notepad, wordpad, word, excel, etc)
If you are trying to have a program look up data regarding the movie itself based on the UPC barcode, that is something different.
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I apparently read "let my thumb" as "left thumb"... hmmm... more coffee...
If its the right thumb dragging, a Swenson is one option I've used. I currently have one of these on my Open gun - it works just as well: http://www.1911store.com/thumbguardbcg.aspx - its 1/3 the price of a Swenson, and your gunsmith will cuss you far less (Swensons work fine, but they come as a raw casting and involve a lot of finish work to make them look presentable)....
would you mind posting a picture of that thumbguard thing? Might be exactly what I am looking for. Is it a lot of fitting involved? Do I have to mill my frame? Is it a complicated procedure?
I attached a couple pictures of mine. My hands are kind of small and my thumb rests on the guard. I can't tell you how it mounts, I bought the gun with it.
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So just to clarify for me because I may have misunderstood previously: a swinger that would naturally come to rest in a hidden position (even if it is still swinging when my COF is complete) is a disappearing target and incur no penalty if missed or not shot at?
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Happens to me all the time on my motorcycle even if there is a sensor! I drive thru them too
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What your describing shouldn't be due to high primers, high primers could cause immediate ignition as the bolt slams into battery. I'd check the primer after it goes 'click'. If you're not in a match and can extract it safely just see if there is a good primer strike. The primers could be too hard for your gun to reliably light off and you'd need a stronger spring somewhere.
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This should be fun!
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I have never used I-Tunes, I never agreed with their DRM schemes; so I've always used Winamp . Its free and has really good portable support. I bought the pro version because I like it so much and use it every day.
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I think the clip draw idea may be the best. Just something to locate the finger consistently and keep it off the slide.
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I've had the same issue. It was usually the one of the last few in the pickup tube. Like SS said, make sure the plastic end of the tube is seated tightly against the aluminum.
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I've had my 92FS for nearly 20 yrs and likely over 20k rounds. I have been shooting it in Production because it feels right (and after 20 years I can practically shoot it blindfolded
). I just stepped up to Open, so it will now be placed on standby with the other toys. -
Overall Length - Long-Flat 2.4” (6.1cm), Short-Flat 2.2” (5.6cm), Long-Curved 2.3” (5.8cm), Short-Curved 2.1 (5.4cm).
Medium is just between each.
Excellent. I'll just stick some material on mine and see how the different ones feel.
Thanks again.
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I just made the jump to an open gun (STI/Dawson, 9mm Major) and it has an SVI trigger. The 'length of pull' so to speak is a bit short for my hand and I was wondering if anyone knew the measurements of the short, medium and long flat trigger inserts. I'm looking for distance from flat face to the back flats (not the longer rounded part) of the inserts
I'm not sure which one I have and I'd like to mock up some spacers to see how things feel before ordering a new insert.
Thanks.
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I got a CR speed belt but was wondering how you use the thing. If I just put on the inner belt and then the other one on top of it, I have this huge bulge of space where the ends over lap and on both sets. I've been thinking that the inner belt needs to be set up so that the outer belt can start where the inner belt ends so that it is flatter but then I'd have the inner belt put on offset to one side of my body. If that makes sense.
So how the hell does this thing wear? I wish it came with instructions.
This is how I run mine. First set up the outer belt the way you like it w/ holster and pouches. Then put on the outer belt, you will see where the inner belt should line up so the ends butt together. Just make a mental note where this is so you can put the inner on the same every time. Mine ended up starting at my outer hip seam, but end where my buckle usually is. I don't have any weird gaps and everything stays put.
). I just stepped up to Open, so it will now be placed on standby with the other toys.
Zombiland
in Books, Movies, TV & Music
Posted
WW-Z is going to be a movie? Awesome, I'm reading it right now.