B767capt
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Posts posted by B767capt
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Thanks for the info. I have a Mark 7 on a 750 and get the pop. I ordered the M die for 223 item #7342097.
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I see this post is over a year old, but I came on here looking to solve this exact issue. I've been pulling my hair out over these 55g bullets getting jammed. DAA sent a new switch and a new drop tube so I'm waiting on that. They really have great customer service. I got to the point where I had the switch in my hand and would activate the feeder when the clear tube was low. So with the switch out of the black tube, I would still get jams in the black tube right where the switch goes. The diameter in that area allows a falling bullet to jam on the bullet below it if that bottom bullet's nose is canted. I have a long 20" verticle drop with the spring tube so the force of that bullet coming down would wedge the two together. So if I only filled the clear tube and did not let any more fall and start filling the black tube, it ran great. I love the tape idea and will try that. I tried bending that arm in every way possible and nothing worked. If the bullets passed through with no jam, the arm wouldn't activate the switch and stop the feeder. If I got the feeder to stop, the bullets would jam. They need a switch with a slightly weaker spring for the 223. Josh at DAA did say the 223 gives them the most problems.
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15 hours ago, HesedTech said:
In my case that’s not even close. The Redding die is designed for .40 FMJ bullets and the amount of bell to seat .401 coated without scraping off the coating is larger than the ID of the Redding die. Even the instructions which came with the die mention the case guide will reduce the brass size as it comes down. The only solution I see to continue using the Redding is to highly polish the inside of the case guid, something I’m not willing to do. Additionally the Redding die leaves a ring where it contacts the coated bullets.
Overall, my experience is the Dillon seating die produces equal precision and doesn’t leave a “ring around” the bullet from seating.
What’s interesting is with 40SW I found the Lee sizing die actually was more consistent than the Dillon. I think it’s because the Lee slightly undersizes the brass over the Dillon.
This is what works in my 40sw process.
BTW swear by the Redding Precision Comp. seating dies for my rifle reloading.
Great info here as I switch to Blue Bullets. The Montana Gold 165g measure .397 which surprises me. The BB I've got coming are .400 and may cause a problem if I have to move the bell out further. I've noticed the ring from the Redding and may go back to the Dillon seating die with the BB.
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I took the new Redding seating die apart and there were significant filings up in the die. I cleaned it all out and took .003 off the case mouth bell and ran 200 rounds through. The bell is a little too tight but I'm able to slow down the shell plate indexing speed with the autodrive. That function is great when loading 9mm to prevent spillage. Slowing that down I was able to keep the bullet from falling off and to my surprise, no brass filings. We'll see as time goes on but I wrote Redding and I'm curious what they will say.
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20 minutes ago, Furrly said:
I have the same seating die and I've loaded over 50k of 40cal, never have I've had a single shaved brass.
Make sure your bell is not to big
I make sure my bell is as small as possible. Those MG bullets measure .397 and I error on smallest bell as possible. What ever it takes so the bullet stays on. I'm going to send a picture to Redding and see what they say.
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1 hour ago, SnipTheDog said:
I don't know if you're lightly lubing your brass, but it helps.
I have pistol lube from Brass Juice but I tried it without to see how it would go. I hate the way this fine powder sticks all over the case when there is case lube. 223 drives me nuts with this so I resize them only, and they definitely need lube, then rewash then reload. The autodrive digital clutch is set at 4 and goes to 20 so there isn't much force going on as the press hasn't stopped yet because a force of more than 4 is being applied. I bet when I hand loaded, I applied much more force than this autodrive is doing at 4.
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1 hour ago, Furrly said:
What sizing die are you using? Trying loading one round at a time, that might help identify what station the shavings are coming from.
Using the Dillon 40/10mm sizing die I bought back in 2010 with my initial 650 purchase.
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29 minutes ago, HesedTech said:
This is the issue.
I have the same die and noticed the same shavings issue. Replaced it with the Dillion seating die and like magic the shavings went away. What is happening is as the die is coming down it is taking the bell out before it seats the bullet.
Just the answer I'm looking for. I was using the Dillon seater on the first reload and no shavings. I hated making fine adjustments on it and also using the seater for 40sw, I figured this would be easier to use. I also read that this seating die pushes on the bullet near the ogive so get you more constant COAL. I am going to start using 180g Blue Bullets and this wouldn't be good as it would rub the paint off. This website is an awesome place to get problems solved.
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1 hour ago, Furrly said:
What sizing die are you using? Trying loading one round at a time, that might help identify what station the shavings are coming from.
That's a good idea. That Redding seater die is also new to this round of reloads and wonder if the slight bell in the mouth is causing that when it goes up in to be seated.
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1 hour ago, Banacek said:
Pretty common for me when reloading on my 650. I am curious about the mirror thingy you have there, can you send more pictures of that?
I have the Mark 7 autodrive on it and that's the laser that checks that the bullet is sitting on top of the case ready to be seated. If it falls off when the shell plate moves, the press stops.
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I've had a Dillon 650 since 2010 and recently bought a 750 2 years ago so I've been reloading about 12 years. I reload for many pistol and rifle calibers but recently just started with 10mm. I'm using Montana Gold .400, 165g since I have a stash of those for 40sw and reloaded at 14.5, AA #9 since I had that at 1.250. I bought the new Sig XTEN and bought 1k of 10mm brass from Starline. I already had the dies from 40 SW. I loaded the first rounds straight from Starline without resizing. I haven't had 1 malfunction in the XTEN after 500 rounds so far. So now with the once fired brass, I deprimed, washed and started to reload the cases a second time. This time I made a few changes where I have the 40/10mm Dillon resizing die in station 1 and I bought a Redding competition seater die with the micro adjustments on top for station 4. The last station has a Dillon taper crimp die and I have it adjusted just to take the bell out since I'm using a Mr. Bullet feeder. The case mouth has the same measurement as the side of the case. I now have brass shavings piling up on my shell plate and can't determine which station it's coming from. I do notice a slight coke bottle now on the case after the bullet is inserted since I'm now resizing the case wall. In the 12 years of reloading, I've never seen brass shavings that I can recall and I reload for 10 different calibers. Since the case mouth is probably smaller after the resize, I wonder if the powder funnel is causing this but I don't see flakes falling. I can't see any place on the brass that it might be coming from either. Any ideas and would you says that's abnormal?
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I just switched to brass juice to eliminate the pins in my FART. I have used pins for several years both pistol and rifle with no problems. Recently I cleaned about 300 Lapua 6.5 Creedmoor cases and was having trouble getting the bolt closed with the finished round. I am using Whidden's bushing resizing die and a Sheridan case gauge to check fitment. The cases wouldn't fit in the case gauge. I emailed John Whidden thinking the die might be off and after several email exchanges he asked how I cleaned the brass. He said the pins are known to peen the case mouth and try eliminating the pins. That's when I ordered the Brass Juice. Sure enough after looking closely, the case mouth looked like it had been flared by a powder die. Hard to see but running your fingernail over the edge you could feel the flair. The bushing in the die would not straighten them out so I trimmed .002 off with my Henderson trimmer and and then the bushing did straighten out what was left. Cases then slid easily into the case gauge. Funny I hadn't had this issue on my other cases. So no more pins for me and I just finished my first batch with the brass juice and they look like new and the clean up without pins was much easier.
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I just got a new 750 coming from a 650 and I put a mark 7 autodrive on it so it was easy to transition to. One thing I just found and ordered is this high flow 223 funnel from Double Alpha. I haven't tried it yet but I would think this would solve your issue.
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This post is over a year old with no replies but yes it's possible as I just got done setting mine up. I put a Mark 7 autodrive on it and have the M7 powder check at 3, MBF at 4 and seater on 5. I crimp on a RCBS Rock Chucker LFC die and it gives me a chance to look the round over for primers installed backwards.. The DAA large, short powder bar just came back in stock. Also put an Armanov adjustable indexer block on to be able to adjust primer seating depth.
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I paid with a CC and it was charged almost immediatly so I have been out over a $1000 since Dec.
Really?? Did you order from Rick? I ordered one last week directly from Rick - no deposit...In fact, Rick made it so easy that it would be silly to not order one from him.
Same here. I got on his waiting list and about 3 weeks later he called and said I'm ready to ship your feeder. That's when he got my money.
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I just got my new 650, and while assembling it, when I tightened the screw that is supposed to stop casefeeder from rotating on the post, the helicoil insert came out from the plastic of the casefeeder body. Ouch!
How do I fix it? I was thinking about putting "metal" epoxy into the hole and re-drilling it. As the stupidity is strong in me, please stop me before I ruin it further.
I did the same thing. Used JB Weld and glued a new helicoil in the plastic hole. Much stronger now. Was more carefull on tightening the screw down after that.
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Funny I have a brand new 650 and when I load the .40sw, I too am getting the same problem. All components are new. I have a 550 too and it won't do it on that. I have the die set exactly how the manuals says. On my 9mm, 357 sig and 45 acp, no problem, just the 40 sw.
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I had contacted him last month and was told 16 weeks. Rick called me last night and it's on the way. Looks like things are moving now.
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UPDATE.....Just received the new #5 shell plate and made no other changes. Ran 100 rounds through without 1 crushed primer. Looks like that was the problem. Thanks Gary at Dillon for the quick response and service. Bill
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Yes using #5. The reason a new shell plate is being sent, is the 40sw with spp worked perfectly. Also the 45 acp was perfect with lpp. Yes I switched the primer punch, primer wheel, primer tube from large to small when switching primers. Dillons thinking is the shell plate maybe slightly off since all other calibers worked. My press is solidly mounted on a bench with no movement. I have played with the spring tab on #2 from touching the case to a lot of play and every where in between. Still crushes primers. I was just looking for other ideas while waiting on a new shell plate. Will report back with results on the new plate.
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All the 9mm brass has been through my 550B with no problems. It's brass that I have reloaded before and run through my MG.
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Been a long time 550 user and still have it. My new 650 showed up last week and I am having a big problem with crushed primers in the 9mm (cci spp). I have cycled the handle 25 times with just primers to see if they were flipping in the wheel. They were not. The primers I am having trouble with go in at a 45 degree angle and get crushed. Half of the primer is sticking out of the pocket crushed. All the brass I am using has gone through my 550 with no problems. I have read all the 650 posts I could find on this problem. I then decided to try and reloaded 40sw, 45acp and both calibers had no problems. Even the 40sw with cci spp worked perfectly. I set up 9mm again to retry and got 4 crushed primers with 12 strokes. I have the locating tab (station 2) about a business card thick and have tried it way in and way out. The primer plunger is tight, looks center in the shell plate and is clean. Called Dillon and they are sending a new shell plate for starters. I have the bearing on the shell plate and have it as snug as possible without drag. I have pulled the primer wheel tray, clean all parts and lubed the pin it rotates on. Any other ideas from some of you 650 gurus? Thanks, Bill
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That was it. Just loaded my first 100 rounds with out any problems. Thanks
Varget on a dillon 750, occasional spill
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
I use this on my 750 with no issues.
https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/daa-fast-flow-powder-funnel