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socman777

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Everything posted by socman777

  1. A follow up: Thought it only fair to post the outcome. XR's advise was absolutely right. Went back to the range and did some slow, slow fire - with some serious follow through. I focused on pinning the trigger until the recoil was over - and only then releasing it to the reset point. Bottom line: no "double". Answer: a shooter's problem. I discovered that I was following through very little if at all. When I slowed down all went well. My accuracy was improved as well. Again, a big thanks to XR.
  2. XR... My sincere thanks, I think you are right on the money. I posted this question at another well known Glock forum, and after a bunch of hitting around the mark, came to this very conclusion, namely follow through... And to try pinning the trigger, et al. I think you are exactly right. I want to publicly thank you, and this forum for coming to what I believe is the best course of action in one cogent and competent reply. Thanks very much...
  3. Basis: my relatively new stock Glock 34, using stock Advantage .22 conversion. Have shot maybe 500 rounds, probably more. I mostly slow fire, single shots. I tend to preload the trigger as matter of habit. I use a fairly relaxed, thumbs forward grip. What happens: maybe every 75 rounds or more I get a second, unintended shot. My thoughts: For awhile this really didn't bother me, thought maybe I was doing something wrong - and it wasn't often enough to really be a problem. Then I read about some Glocks "doubling", and wondered whether I had a bad sear or maybe firing pin lug. But after thinking about it, I don't think the shots are close enough to be a double (Glocks recycle about every 0.06 seconds, the Advantage slide can't be that much slower) - if I had to guess I'd say the shots are more like .20 apart - not anywhere close. More like a "bang, bang" rather than a double "ba-bang" (stop laughing, OK?), lol... I've done the test where you dry-fire, hold the trigger back, rerack, then slowly let out the trigger, get a nice reset "click" - if I then pull the trigger back from there, get a proper dry-fire. But shooting live at the range, the second shot is unintended and surprises me everytime. My questions: 1. How can I determine if it is an unintended double tap rather than a true double? 2. If this is me, what am I likely doing (or not doing) that causes this infrequent occurence? What should I be looking for or do? 3. Last, what is the winning lottery number? Thanks in advance...
  4. Bought an Advantage Arms 22 conversion for a new, stock G-34. Seems like every 75 rounds or so I get what I think is a double, usually catches me by surprise. I usually am slow firing, do preload my trigger. On another thread I read... Is this experiment accurate? Isn't this "click" the reset? As when I do this experiment and get the "click", and then depress the trigger from this position, it fires as I would expect. How can I tell if I really have a doubling problem? Are there any other things I can be doing to cause this occasional double firing? Thnx...
  5. socman777

    simple green

    I know that there are a number of folks that use Green, I think mostly due to cost, and the notion that it appears to be safer and biodegradable. And I sure thought about it. But any cleaner that has to be meticulously rinsed off raised my concerns. What if I wasn't as meticulous as I could be? What is the cumulative effect of repeated cleanings over time? If aluminum is a problem, what else? I found what I think is a good, equally economical answer that works fine for many people: Ballistrol. First found it when it was reviewed along with products like Breakfree CLP, Gunzilla, Hoppe's Elite (aka Mpro), Shooter's Choice, CorrosionX et al. Not only was it the highest rated all-purpose (CLP) type product, it is biologically very safe. Here's an exerpt of the set of reviews that sold me... No single product even came close as a CLP (do it all) type. What did beat it was Hoppe's Elite (Mpro) cleaner followed by its CLP or Elite Oil and this combination barely edged Ballistrol, despite the significantly higher cost of the two Elite products needed to replace it. As a medical guy, I'm VERY concerned about biological safety for me first, the environment second. I like the idea that these products are safe AND effective, and pose no possible to risk to my dear Glock. Unfortunately, the non-traditional and off label use of Green raises a flag for me. .
  6. FWIW... JB, why I never thought of measuring the trigger pull before and after - despite the fact that I really wasn't concerned with lightening the pull, was pretty dumb. I'd really have liked to know something beyond "it feels lighter'. But as it so happens I have a new G-26 arriving, hopefully tomorrow. Think I'll run a hundred rounds through it, then whip out my Kiss 4-Way Ultra Shiner and have at it. After I measure the stock pull. This time too, I'll take some pics and save a coupla thousand words. Stay tuned... ********* Question to Kyro: did you run into any manufacturing minipits and or defects, how bad were they, and how far did you go with your "shiner"? Were you using a "Kiss 4-Way? What grits did you use?
  7. I really wish I had. Using the milk jug and water technique, the after pull weight seems to be about 4.7 lbs or a tad more (at my typical finger position). Sure wish I had measured it before, but truth be told, I was more concerned about smoothness and break. The best I can say is that it feels lighter, and that the typical weight for this trigger is about 5.5 pounds at this finger/trigger position (Ayoob). As far as smoothness and break goes, I am very satisfied with my $1 trigger job. It could not have been any easier.
  8. (Originally posted in "General Gunsmithing", copied on request) Yes, yes, who hasn't heard of the now infamous Glock "25 cent trigger job"! Apparently this is based on the smidgeon of Mother's or other polishing compound used to do it. But it doesn't count a good Dremel, or the special polishing tips, stones etc. many use to do this. More like $100.25, lol. And it is quite true than an aggressive Dremeling at high speed might just take off a bit too much metal and round your corners. The advanced 25 cent job has you cleaning with some 000 dry steel wool, stoning with maybe 3 stones, Dremeling to polish, then a final light stoning to get your edges back. I even ran across a guy who then loads the trigger assembly up with JB bore paste (or similar), reassembles the gun and then dry-fires it for a couple 100 rounds to achieve a "final mating" of parts. Then meticulously cleans all to remove every single particle of this potentially wearing compound. Whew! Hope he doesn't miss any. And the method more akin to a real 25 cent job - using Q-tips and polish (more like a $10.25 job) will take you - almost literally - forever, at least if you want a real polish, ala the Dremel boyz. And with no sense of edges. Really little more than a good cleaning with a light polish. This method was really pretty lame, at least for me. And now my ears are fulla wax, having used up the last of our Q-tips. I finally discovered a method that I think is the true champeen of easy - cheep - effective trigger jobs for the rest us non-machinists. Let's call it the $1 trigger job. And it is truly a buck (well dang close anyway). The Kiss (actual name) 4-Way Ultra Shiner. What!? You never heard of this? Ask your wife. This handy dandy little trigger machine is hiding in the cosmetics department of your neighborhood drug store where somehow, our fair partners have mistaken this fine customization tool for a nail shaper/polisher. Actually the "Kiss" comes in two versions. The 4-way Nail Shaper (with 4 grits - 180, 240, 400 and 600) and the ultimate, intergalactic version - the aforesaid 4-way Ultra Shiner (nice name, eh?) - which is 240 - 400 - 600 and (est) 800 or 1000. Awesome. I used the latter, the Ultra Shiner and spent about 20 minutes, give or take: ended up with a noticeably smoother trigger. I focused on the key areas on the trigger bar, connector, safety and firing pin lug (the usual). This tool fits nicely, can be precisely positioned, and - it works. I only found one area which needed a bit of light 240'ng, but the rest of the job was done using the 400 - 600 - 1000 (marked 2,3, and 4 on the tool). The advantages as I see it: 1. It really is cheep - about a dollar. That's it. In the interest of full disclosure I did use our nice household magnifying glass, but we all have one of those already, right? 2. It promotes and maintains your crisp edges. 3. It really does achieve a good, smooth polish with light easily controlled strokes. All essential areas can be reached, angles and edges easily maintained and polished. Including the safety. 4. As far as "removing too much metal" (a common concern of the $10 or $100, er 25 cent, methods), the hand method insures that you'll be working safely and carefully. To remove too much metal you would have to virtually go nuts. This is a great method for those who want an easy, quick, reliable and competent method that poses little, if any risk to your fine gun. A final observation - I found a few, hard-to-remove scratches and what looked like tiny, tiny pits here and there, apparently a product of the stamping/manufacturing process. Certainly it is possible to eliminate ALL of these - even with the $1 trigger job - but I really don't see the point. To do so you really WILL have to remove metal. And I feel that if these key areas are otherwise shiny smooth, there will be no real detriment to leaving these there (in comparison to removing some real metal). My apologies to the anal-retentives. The proof is in the pudding: my 3.5 G-34 factory trigger is now noticeably smoother, breaks nicely, and I did not risk its reliability or longevity in any way. In fact, I probably improved it. Anyway, that's all she wrote. Enjoy... the true $1 Kiss Ultra Shine Trigger Job!
  9. Yes, yes, who hasn't heard of the now infamous Glock "25 cent trigger job"! Apparently this is based on the smidgeon of Mother's or other polishing compound used to do it. But it doesn't count a good Dremel, or the special polishing tips, stones etc. many use to do this. More like $100.25, lol. And it is quite true than an aggressive Dremeling at high speed might just take off a bit too much metal and round your corners. The advanced 25 cent job has you cleaning with some 000 dry steel wool, stoning with maybe 3 stones, Dremeling to polish, then a final light stoning to get your edges back. I even ran across a guy who then loads the trigger assembly up with JB bore paste (or similar), reassembles the gun and then dry-fires it for a couple 100 rounds to achieve a "final mating" of parts. Then meticulously cleans all to remove every single particle of this potentially wearing compound. Whew! Hope he doesn't miss any. And the method more akin to a real 25 cent job - using Q-tips and polish (more like a $10.25 job) will take you - almost literally - forever, at least if you want a real polish, ala the Dremel boyz. And with no sense of edges. Really little more than a good cleaning with a light polish. This method was really pretty lame, at least for me. And now my ears are fulla wax, having used up the last of our Q-tips. I finally discovered a method that I think is the true champeen of easy - cheep - effective trigger jobs for the rest us non-machinists. Let's call it the $1 trigger job. And it is truly a buck (well dang close anyway). The Kiss (actual name) 4-Way Ultra Shiner. What!? You never heard of this? Ask your wife. This handy dandy little trigger machine is hiding in the cosmetics department of your neighborhood drug store where somehow, our fair partners have mistaken this fine customization tool for a nail shaper/polisher. Actually the "Kiss" comes in two versions. The 4-way Nail Shaper (with 4 grits - 180, 240, 400 and 600) and the ultimate, intergalactic version - the aforesaid 4-way Ultra Shiner (nice name, eh?) - which is 240 - 400 - 600 and (est) 800 or 1000. Awesome. I used the latter, the Ultra Shiner and spent about 20 minutes, give or take: ended up with a noticeably smoother trigger. I focused on the key areas on the trigger bar, connector, safety and firing pin lug (the usual). This tool fits nicely, can be precisely positioned, and - it works. I only found one area which needed a bit of light 240'ng, but the rest of the job was done using the 400 - 600 - 1000 (marked 2,3, and 4 on the tool). The advantages as I see it: 1. It really is cheep - about a dollar. That's it. In the interest of full disclosure I did use our nice household magnifying glass, but we all have one of those already, right? 2. It promotes and maintains your crisp edges. 3. It really does achieve a good, smooth polish with light easily controlled strokes. All essential areas can be reached, angles and edges easily maintained and polished. Including the safety. 4. As far as "removing too much metal" (a common concern of the $10 or $100, er 25 cent, methods), the hand method insures that you'll be working safely and carefully. To remove too much metal you would have to virtually go nuts. This is a great method for those who want an easy, quick, reliable and competent method that poses little, if any risk to your fine gun. A final observation - I found a few, hard-to-remove scratches and what looked like tiny, tiny pits here and there, apparently a product of the stamping/manufacturing process. Certainly it is possible to eliminate ALL of these - even with the $1 trigger job - but I really don't see the point. To do so you really WILL have to remove metal. And I feel that if these key areas are otherwise shiny smooth, there will be no real detriment to leaving these there (in comparison to removing some real metal). My apologies to the anal-retentives. The proof is in the pudding: my 3.5 G-34 factory trigger is now noticeably smoother, breaks nicely, and I did not risk its reliability or longevity in any way. In fact, I probably improved it. Anyway, that's all she wrote. Enjoy... the true $1 Kiss Ultra Shine Trigger Job!
  10. Be here now... Had the "experience" of reading some of the various posts re "point shooting" in general (this section) and DMR in specific. A hearty exchange. Before I start, it would be good to try to summarize what I found. The many who seemed to find fault with either, seemed to express views like these... 1. Some didn't like his posting style, felt it was abrupt and single-minded. His competitive experience was only reluctantly acknowledged, but in some cases, still denigrated. 2. Many felt that "index" and the sights were both actually used in point shooting, whether directly or indirectly (peripherally), and accounted for any success using this method. These felt that DMR's "point shooting" was but a slightly altered take on "aimed" shoot, albeit with a new moniker. When examples of shooting with no sights was given, it was posited that the barrel plane was used as a sort of alternative sight. The elephant in the room - which was missed - is that in "point shooting" (originally taught as "instinct shooting" by Lucky McDaniel) - the eye and sights (or gun) are never in alignment. In "aimed shooting" they always are. The essential and unresolveable difference. 3. Most did not get that true point shooting (as perhaps first documented and promoted by McDaniel in the 1950's) really does put absolute and total focus on a point target, something that is relatively natural, fast and instinctive. As is pointing with your finger. It does not rely on the painstaking development of "index" and/or technical use of the front sight. 4. Most of the commenters had little or no personal experience with the method, and were criticizing something they did not truly understand or practice. 5. Most criticised DMR for holding forth that "point shooting" was the be all, end all. In fact, he made clear that he felt that this method was very effective only up to about 7 yards, but that the sights came partially into play between 7 - 10 yards, and that those sights came fully into play over 10 yards. This is a far cry from the accusations. Does this mean I am siding with DMR? Not at all, but I do think there was an element of ganging up. Still, his responses seemed pretty moderate, though there were times his goat was finally gotten, which led to his challenges to meet for a shoot out. It is actually pretty funny that a bunch of highly competitive shooters were offended by someone who actually, uh, offered to compete. A man of action who finally tired of a war of words. Think George Forman vs Mohammed Ali in the Thrilla in Manila, lol. On the other hand, I did find that DMR played it pretty close to the vest regarding his method. He's a businessman who owns and sells what he believes is a valuable entity - his method - and doesn't want to give it away. It's fine to promote "point shooting" but if you post, you have to be prepared to discuss it in at least some detail. Or there's no real discussion. There was much legitimate frustration with this lack. So in a spirit of open inquiry and discussion, I'd like to offer my own experience and understanding of "point shooting". I hope this provides some needed detail. Here's an exerpt from my blog about my first time at the range (after much, much practice)... ********************* (Exerpt from: "First Day at the Range") ... To be fair, I had no expectations at all. My goal was simply to successfully jump in the pool and simply fire the gun. But I also knew that its important to do your best to go slowly and and to learn and practice proper technique. First up was assuming the two-handed grip. Because the handle on my Airsoft Elite was shorter, and because its slide does not recoil, I'd used a ridiculous grip that actually had my left forefinger against the slide to steady my aim. Unuseable, of course with a real semi-automatic. As far as the Glock, I'd practiced the grip shown in my NRA manual, which had the right (dominant) thumb lying over the (lower) left thumb (which was pointing foward and down near the left forefinger). Perhaps solid enough, but on my Glock this placed my left thumb right over the magazine release. Somehow this didn't feel safe or proper. I feared it would all too easy to accidentally eject the magazine. But I'd also been an avid golfer, where the Hogan grip captures the left thumb and little finger with the right hand. Turns the hands into a nice, aligned unit. A grip I'd used many, many thousands of times. So for the Glock it somehow just felt a whole lot more natural - and safe - to allow the right thumb to angle down toward the mag release, and to capture it by placing the left thumb over it. For me, a reverse golfing Hogan grip. The right thumb could not reach the mag release, and the left thumb was held up and away from either the release or the slide. It just felt strong, safe, natural and comfortable. Apparently it was. After firing perhaps 15 rounds, I noticed that my shots were grouped slightly below the red zone. It is important to note that I'd frequently practiced an instinctive pointing method. I practiced in the bedroom, at the beach and other settings. I'd turn my head and quickly pick a target, point and say "boom", over and over, in one smooth motion - "firing" without hesition. I did the same with my airsoft and Glock in the privacy of my bedroom. The key was quickly picking out random targets and acting without hesitation. I'd held the pistol below my line of sight - after "firing", I'd hold position and move my head down to see where the sights had been aimed. To my amazement, I found the sights were almost always aligned with my target. With the airsoft (and it's tendency for the pellet to "hop" and shoot high) I'd learned to adjust my sight point of aim (lower) and not to alter the pointing of the gun. With the airsoft, knowing that it shot high, I simply shot at a point lower than my intended target. I found out pointing was remarkably accurate. Back to the range. Although I took the time to line up the sights a couple of times, for the most part I relied on my point-and-shoot method. I did not rush, but I also did not tarry. After noting I had begun to group a bit low (due to the airsoft?) I acted to try to shoot a bit higher. The shots started landing higher, but the spread had also increased a bit. But the mind-body connection is a marvelous thing. The shots started landing with some regularity in the red zone. I'd been keeping my focus on the target - not the sights - and could see where the shots were hitting (the target was nicely designed - the bullet would make a nice, wide visible white mark on the black/red splatter target). And then something magic happened. I'd been firing a bit faster and had just placed a shot nicely in the red zone. I took particular care in focusing my eyes - not on the sights, not on the red zone or general center - but this time, on the actual bullet hole I'd just made. Total and exclusionary focus. I shot again and struck within perhaps half an inch or even a bit less. I couldn't believe it! Lucky McDaniels would have been proud. His method - where he'd taught hundreds of new shooter to consistently hit a dime with a bb-gun - was largely based on instilling confidence. He felt that the average human being possesses well practiced skills of focus and coordination that come simply from being alive. His attitude was "...you've got it, you just don't know you've got it". I believe this is true. We spend lifetimes seeing with our eyes and pointing with our fingers. This is natural and instinctive for almost all of us. A gun is simply an extension of this innate pointing ability. Lucky also points out (pun intended) that when we run, drive or throw a ball we look ahead at our target - not at the ground, hood or ball. Our natural abilities, developed over a lifetime, then takes care of the rest. He said it's exactly the same with shooting, which just requires relaxed and confident practice. I am sure that many new shooters like me, come to it with the notion that this will be hard, maybe something like golf or tennis. Swinging a golf club to hit a small white ball sitting on top of a wooden tee is not particularly natural. But unlike golf, pointing is very natural, almost basic to any human being, and a gun - particularly a handgun - is a fairly natural extension of the forefinger. Close enough that Lucky McDaniel was able to quickly teach thousands of everyday, ordinary people to shoot instinctively and accurately -usually within an hour. What I'd like to say is this... For me, I think it's important to come to shooting with the notion that it's easy and natural, something that can be quickly achieved with just a bit of relaxed practice. To assume anything else might just be self-fulfilling, like the parent who scares the bejesus out of their child about the dangers of drowning, then takes them to the pool to learn. Compare to unspoiled babies who can be caused to swim - naturally - almost from the get-go. It's back to the womb for them. Just like pointing. So what did I learn? First, that the reassuring and confidence building attitude of the folks at Bass Pro set exactly the right tone. I was treated with respect and reassurance that I'd do fine. It was more an attitude that I simply needed a little basic knowledge and guidance. They didn't hover, showed confidence in me, but were there on request. Good people. Reading and understanding Lucky McDaniel's methods and philosophies in "Instinct Shooting" (by Mike Jennings) - before I went to the range - gave me not only a bit of method, but also the confidence that literally anyone can do it. As did Bob Brister's first chapter in "Shotgunning" - another classic book - wherein he teaches a 14 year old girl to shoot skeet in less than two weeks - using methods related to Lucky (training bb-gun with no sights). He too promotes reliance on our natural and instinctive pointing skills. Both Lucky and Brister noted that the sightless bb gun is aligned roughly parallel - but well below - your line of sight. Your focus is entirely on the target. Lucky's methods were acquired by the US Army and became an official training method during the Vietnam War. Next, all that bedroom and beach pointing - regardless of the amused looks of my honey - gave me easy and valuable practice, and confidence that what I was looking/pointing at was indeed accurate. I will add one possible caveat. I did indeed shoot a lot of airsoft plastic pellets with my plastic Colt Delta Elite spring gun. Like many other airsoft pistols with "hop up" mechanisms, it has a tendency to shoot high, especially with cheap .12 gram pellets, still with .20's, and yet even with heavy .25's. I had to aim almost a foot below my intended target. So I can't help but wonder whether my original grouping at the actual gun range - maybe 3 inches low - was related to this practice. I believe so. Even so, it did not take long for my shooting to move up and improve. A couple of observations: I do believe the airsoft practice had a slightly misleading effect. Still, it was good that I adjusted for its high shooting by choosing a lower aiming point; but there was still a part of me that was aware of the actual, higher target. If I were to do this again, or continue using airsoft, I would work very hard to focus completely on the lower point until the shot was gone, so as not to confuse my sight picture. Still I suspect this may not be completely effective. Lucky's method was improved in that he stood beside the student, and tossed up a ball, disk, etc. maybe just 8 to 10 feet up - very close. At this very close range, a good bb-gun will be much more accurate than airsoft. This is true for even a cheepo Daisy Red Ryder. A competition Model 499 Daisy - at short ranges - is even more accurate and consistent - and can literally place a second bb through the same hole. Although airsoft has the advantage of backyard practice, a quality spring bb-pistol shooting precision steel bb's - using Lucky's toss and shoot method - would likely be an improvement. The key is a velocity of around 250 to 300 fps so you can see the bb, and count on your natural abilities of correction. Like a baby learning to walk, shooting quickly becomes instinctive and remarkably accurate. Any "indexing" in the technical sense was a matter of birth, development and DNA from our ancestors. Those ancestors who focused and pointed well - survived - and we are the result. All in all, things so far have gone fine. My first day at the range at a home defense range of 15 feet resulted in about 76% of my rounds scoring "9" or better, with about 26% in the red zone. Another 4% fringed the "9" zone, with 10% fringing the red zone. For practical purposes, ie home defense, that's about 82% fringing or in "9" or better with 36% in or fringing the red zone. Honestly I was surprised to learn that this is considered more than acceptable for home defense, my goal. Still, I won't take this to heart, since for me keepin score is not the objective. Being in the moment is. ****************** In closing, I'm a big fan of Mr. Eno's Zenlike approach of watching the weapon shoot. As a drummer, my experience is similar in that I don't play the drums, I simply listen to them. I believe the differences between Mr. Eno and DMR may be less than it appears. Both seem to rely more on technique than either would admit. Mr. Eno seems obsessed with technique and feels the need to understand (and explain) them, and to incorporate them or not. DMR takes considerable time to explain his sometimes unorthodox stances and grip. Still, both have a good sense of "the other" (not of each other, lol, although that is equally true). In Mr. Eno's case this appears to be a journey of learning to integrate the mind and body into the (goal of) shooting skills. In DMR's it seems to be extending or expressing inherent mind and body capabilities into shooting. It may be that Eno is working backward from intended shooting performance (toward integration of mind and body), while DMR is moving forward from inherent skills toward the task of shooting well. Mr. Eno is tied to the gun as he watches it shoot. DMR is tied to the target as he watches it struck. Interesting that both are performing what I'd call "point shooting" at short ranges, with "aimed" shooting making its appearance at longer and very long ranges. Subtle but significant differences. Both deserve respect. A personal ending note... To me Eno's ways, at least as expressed in his book, seem less accessible and more time consuming - yet still very valuable. I'm very much into his "Zen" of shooting, Beginner's Mind aspects. To me. OTOH, "point shooting" - to me - seems more natural, and provides a needed, quick, accurate and reliable entry into shooting at up to say, 7 yards. Beginning shooters can only benefit from the early confidence and results of this method. Later, and at longer ranges both come together, as aimed shooting becomes increasingly necessary. To me. YMMV. Cheers and up spirits! ****************** References: "Instinct Shooting" by Mike Jennings (approx 1952): explains Lucky McDaniel and his method. "Shotgunning, The Art and Science" by Bob Brister: a recognized and respected classic. "It's a Daisy", page 219 ("Daisy goes to war": defines the use of Model 99 derivative guns in the Army's ‘instinct shooting’ training program. "Army Quick Kill Program" (training text 23-71-1, approx. 1967): the official Army text based on McDaniel's method, easily found and downloaded from the net (pdf). "The purpose of this text is to provide guidance in the training procedures of... rifle marksmanship and the fast unaimed method of fire called Quick Kill".
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